Milodon oil pan fitment

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71Scamper

Mopar runs thru my veins!
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I'm getting ready to install my 340 into my 71 Scamp this weekend and just had a question about the oil pan I have. I bought a Milodon 30935 oil pan (couldn't pass up, killer deal) and didn't know if it is going to be a drop in. I'll be running Doug's 1 5/8 long tube headers. Will this oil pan drop in with the engine and header combo without modification?
 
define no modification?

I am in the process of installing a 360 in my 71 duster, using the /6 K member, conversion mounts and the same headers you have

I managed to slice the oil pan with the K member so if yours is the same (not sure which number mine is, i was told it is the 8 quart version) while trying to install it and decided i need to trim the K member

i haven't been able to install the headers/starter/oilpan all together, but im hoping to get that done this weekend
 
on the other hand I had a complete nightmare with that damn oil pan! I have a 73 duster with a 68 Barracuda v8 K frame. I had to cut a big chunk out of the K frame to get it to fit. and after grinding on the oil pump to get it to fit under the pan and banging on the side of the pan to not get the Milodon pick up to rub on the side of the pan. I had to put the motor and transmission in together because I could not get the correct angle to get that damn pan pass the K frame with it cut out. and after all that the brand new pan had a pinhole in one of the welds! I would never buy one of these pans ever again, what a nightmare!
looking back if someone would have paid me $300 plus to take it off their hands I wouldn't have turned around and gave it to my worst enemy.
on the good side after all is said and done and a lot of JB Weld and gasket sealer over the factory pin hole in the welds all is working well now.
 
on the other hand I had a complete nightmare with that damn oil pan! I have a 73 duster with a 68 Barracuda v8 K frame. I had to cut a big chunk out of the K frame to get it to fit. and after grinding on the oil pump to get it to fit under the pan and banging on the side of the pan to not get the Milodon pick up to rub on the side of the pan. I had to put the motor and transmission in together because I could not get the correct angle to get that damn pan pass the K frame with it cut out. and after all that the brand new pan had a pinhole in one of the welds! I would never buy one of these pans ever again, what a nightmare!
looking back if someone would have paid me $300 plus to take it off their hands I wouldn't have turned around and gave it to my worst enemy.
on the good side after all is said and done and a lot of JB Weld and gasket sealer over the factory pin hole in the welds all is working well now.

shoulda gone big block!
 
on my 71 Dart, I had to notch one front corner of the v8 k-member to get it to drop in. I wouldn't think the headers would be an issue either. I have TTI's though.

Here's some pics though to give an idea.



 
define no modification?

I am in the process of installing a 360 in my 71 duster, using the /6 K member, conversion mounts and the same headers you have

I managed to slice the oil pan with the K member so if yours is the same (not sure which number mine is, i was told it is the 8 quart version) while trying to install it and decided i need to trim the K member

i haven't been able to install the headers/starter/oilpan all together, but im hoping to get that done this weekend

by modifications, I mean am I gonna have a big surprise with interference between parts. My K-frame is a small block frame from a 70 Dart. No adapters or anything like that with my setup. My pan is the 8 quart one. I would of bought the 7 quart pan, but I want to retain my windage try. I hope not to have as much trouble with my install as you had. Milodon says its a bolt in, but all these manufacturers say that.
 
and if you drop the K member and install it as a unit from the bottom it may very well be a bolt on :banghead:

LOL, it definitely would be at that point. So are you saying it will interfere with the K-member?
 
You will have to notch the passenger side front of the K frame to clear the oil pan. Also, depending on the headers you might have to modify the pan .... I went through this years ago with my Barracuda....it was a joy.
 
You will have to notch the passenger side front of the K frame to clear the oil pan. Also, depending on the headers you might have to modify the pan .... I went through this years ago with my Barracuda....it was a joy.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say when flyfish was saying "it was a joy" he meant it was a complete pain in the a$$! the first picture will be of the k frame that had to be cut to not only get in but to have clearance once it was in. the second picture will be beautiful JB Weld and gasket sealer smeared all over the brand new factory well to keep the pin holes from leaking. And last but not least, the header heat shield tape I wedged in between the oil pan and header to go ahead and close the gap and keep the oil from being super heated by the headers enjoy your new Milodon oil pan. I know it was a joy for me and still is.View attachment 20150428_172012.jpg

View attachment 20150428_172020.jpg

View attachment 20150428_172433.jpg
 
Cheep summit

Well I still have my engine on the stand and I could always bolt up the headers just to see if they will play nice with the oil pan. I'm almost tempted to just notch the k frame before I put the engine in so I don't have any issues. Do you have any measurements that could help me pin point the location for the notch?
 
Had to notch the corner of the k frame no big deal and my TTI'S clear no problem..another one of the nice things of using quality parts..
 
Doug's will clear your pan. I had them with the same oil pan in my 69 Dart.
K-member will need to be notched maybe 3" long by 1" wide to the passenger side.
 
Doug's will clear your pan. I had them with the same oil pan in my 69 Dart.
K-member will need to be notched maybe 3" long by 1" wide to the passenger side.

Thanks I just found out myself tonight before I read this, lol.
 

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Well I still have my engine on the stand and I could always bolt up the headers just to see if they will play nice with the oil pan. I'm almost tempted to just notch the k frame before I put the engine in so I don't have any issues. Do you have any measurements that could help me pin point the location for the notch?

You could do something like this! Take your pick. If you notch the whole piece out you'll have some welding to do to the seam. Good luck. I just got rid of my last Milodon pan! Its much cheaper to modify a stock pan and make it 1 1/2-2" deeper and put a baffle in it.
 

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Had to notch the corner of the k frame no big deal and my TTI'S clear no problem..another one of the nice things of using quality parts..

Agreed x 2 on my limited budget I opted to put the quality parts inside the motor instead of outside just too get started. I thought it would be easier to bolt on some expensive headers when I could afford them instead of tryin to put scat I-beams in later.:coffee2:
 
Took some measurements and realized the pan would interfere on the passenger side. So I notched the seam anyways. Hopefully it's enough when I go to install the engine this week.
 
Took some measurements and realized the pan would interfere on the passenger side. So I notched the seam anyways. Hopefully it's enough when I go to install the engine this week.

You can see my nasty cut. I did that after several times of trying to get around the k frame. I'll clean that up this winter when i pull the motor for service and upgrades. Also to warranty that $!@&/# oil pan.
 
if I had to do it all over again I don't think that pan would be re-used ;)
 
You know i could just sell the new one they send me and buy something different ?
There rep said they don't have a great way of checking for bad welds anymore! Who's to say the new one won't leak!? ? Now i don't want it on me that i sold someone a $300 piece -0-crap!
 
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