modified upper control arm questions

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ssba

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I have been reading a old Mopar Suspension book by Mike Martin. This book has a copyright
from 1984 and is geared for setting up a Mopar for autocross and road racing.
The book has a section noting the problems with our A-bodys small bolt pattern and more concerning the inadequate smallish drum brakes for racing. In this chapter he describes modifying the stock upper control arms for the larger B-body brakes by welding and machining for the larger ball joint.
I know the 73 up A-body upper control arms already take the larger ball joint so it seems there would be no need to modify a pair of upper arms to swap to the larger brakes.

Here's where the author pointed out that when welding up the control arm for the larger
ball joint he moved it inboard slightly to permit more initial caster and camber.
He also states how mopars like 4-5° positive caster and 1° negative camber.

Here's my question: Is it possible to get authors recommended 4-5° caster settings with the Moog offset bushings? Should these recommended settings still be used today or considered outdated 1984 tech.
Is he relocating the ball joint mostly for camber to keep the wheel from leaning into a corner?
I was also curious if some aftermarket arms geometry are modified from stock similar ?
If I am understanding this correctly a slightly rearward and inboard ball joint mounting position from stock is the goal. I'm guessing because the suspension is lowered?

These are meant to be learn how this works type questions not as a where to buy whoevers
latest greatest. Hope this makes sense to someone that understands suspensions and will share their take on it.
 
Firm Feel has upper control arms with extra built in caster. I set them up with 1 degree camber and 2.5 degrees caster. There are UCA's available with adjustable ends, that allow more tuning.
 
Yeah, I think there are many more aftermarket solutions available today than in 1984. But the basic concept is sound. It is also possible that Martin modified the control arm rather than replacing it because of class rules from the sanctioning organization he was racing in.
 
I have the offset upper bushings, and it looks like you could get that if you wanted.
It looks like an approximate 4-5 degree caster would be possible if wanting a 1 degree camber.
It would be close if it didn't make it completely with offsets.

With the offset's, the more of one you use takes away from the amount possible of the other.
I hope that made sense.

I was able to get 3 degrees positive caster and 1 degree camber with stock bushings, so the offsets should be able to do what you want.

Also keep in mind that the ball joints screw in, so if you re machined anything they would have to be welded back in.
 

I've never considered relocating the upper joint in a stock arm. Not a bad plan.
One vendor offers a adapter sleeve that lets one poke the small ball joint stem in a later spindle hole. Why not machine that piece eccentric ? Maybe it isn't thick enough.
 
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