more fun with wires!

[crabillac]

Car was running. I wrapped the wires. Car will not start, but gets spark. Unwrapped wires, looked for any, and all wires/connections that could be bad, and replaced them. Looked at wiring diagram for possible missing grounds, and incorrect wiring, found none. All wiring now looks good. All connections solid.Bulkhead connector replaced a few years ago. All lights accessories work. When key is in "crank" car does not fire, but after turning over and letting off of the key;I get like a 1/2 second vrooom! When I turn the key all the way off; I get a mini explosion, but not a full blown back-fire unless the distrib is retarded too much. This only happens with the key/ignition switch. I checked the ignition switch with a multimeter,(I put the red lead on the BAT lead and checked continuity for the various key positions, and the lead associated with that position) and it has no issues. I tried 12V direct from battery to coil, and did not get the vroom!, I bypassed the resistor no vroom! Checked spark plug position to cap. It is right on the money.Checked reluctor with brass feeler; it is perfect. I am running a Summit or Jegs Electronic distributor,a dual ballast resistor/ECU set-up for a 1974 Duster, but I am using the resistor only as a single. It is the same resistor that was being used when the car fired up so I do not think it is the problem. If it were; wouldn't bypassing resistor solve the problem?
I have gone through thread after thread looking for similar situations, and have tried anything that might apply to this situation. If this were your car; where would you go next to solve this problem? I am totally out of ideas. :munky2:

 

[cudajim]

What does "wrapped the wires" mean?

 

[PanGasket]

What does "wrapped the wires" mean?

like he used wire wrap to try and neaten things up. like to bundle the wire up

 

[nothingbutdarts]

Kyle,

When doing the checks we talked about, since this problem happened after you tied up the wiring you need to do a pull test on the wires and connectors. You should be able to pull on a correctly crimped wire connector with waht "CATERPILLAR" calls a 10 pound pull test. Which is a good test to see if the wires aren't crimped correctly and you can do the same to the length of the wire to see if there is a break in the wire somewhere.

Believe me, after working on some of this newer Equipment such as "CAT" motor graders where they make the wiring harnesses just a tad too tight, you get wires that pull apart inside the outter insulation or corrosion causes it to corrode apart.

Kim