MPG experiment....1976 Dart Lite

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I dunno what shape the syncros are in on the 3 speed. I literally drained out 5 ounces of fluid when i first bought it, and it took 85 ounces to fill it back up. I can't believe the thing is still together. It is better with the synthetic, but the slop of the shifter iteself, plus the wear on the trans, makes me think it is as good as it gets for now, until I can pull the linkage, and shifter, to grease and shim the linkage up...
Rear is 7.25 with 2.94 gears and open, so it is probably as happy as a clam with premium synthetic in it, plus it whines far less then before.

More to come, still driving it, but can't fill the thank for MPG experiments until the tank gets fixed.
 
since we are bragging about milage......

66 Cuda
318
11:1 comp
#302 heads (pretty well ported, stock valves/springs)
'759' cam
360 smog intake
600 holley
dual point dist.
904 W/kit
3.23 7.25 rear
215/70s on 'S' wheels

..........21 MPG highway, 16 city:bootysha:

Oh and best times to date 14.6@97:-D

if you are only getting 20-21 with a slant there is deffinately something wrong
 
My 360 crate motor with a 750 carb, 3.55 rear and 0.68 OD fifth gets 18 on the highway. The 225 should have a lot more potential. How much would EFI help? A hot spark with lots of advance is good (MSD). A front air dam would clean up the aerodynamics a little. K&N air filter is easy. Manual steering has to help. Aluminum wheels are a definite advantadge. How much power does a manual fuel pump use compared to an electric?
 
CUDAGUY said:
since we are bragging about milage......


..........21 MPG highway, 16 city:bootysha:


if you are only getting 20-21 with a slant there is deffinately something wrong
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No body is bragging, it is an experiment to get the mileage better.
Mileage is not where it should be. You got me! :cheers:
Mileage is much easier to obtain, with a snappy small block, with swirl heads, and some compression, camshaft, etc. Sounds like you have a worked over, efficient combo.

I am dealing with STOCK compression (8.1 to 1 area), a cylinder head from the pre historic days, 1 bbl carb, and stock camshaft.
 
CUDA69 said:
My 360 crate motor with a 750 carb, 3.55 rear and 0.68 OD fifth gets 18 on the highway. The 225 should have a lot more potential. How much would EFI help? A hot spark with lots of advance is good (MSD). A front air dam would clean up the aerodynamics a little. K&N air filter is easy. Manual steering has to help. Aluminum wheels are a definite advantadge. How much power does a manual fuel pump use compared to an electric?
Click to expand...

I agree, the 225 should be better.
--EFI would be nice, but not in the budget.
--Spark is definately an area for improvement, there is a common HEI modification that puts more spark energy to the distributor, it is coming as time allows.
--Air dam or belly pan is in the works, better chance when warmer weather comes around.
--Alum wheels would be nice, but with small bolt pattern, choices are ususally cast, and limited at that. I doubt cast aluminum is going to be much lighter then the 15" ralleye wheels that are on it, and not willing to spend hundreds of $$ for a couple lbs per corner of savings....
--electric pump...maybe down the road. I am on my 2nd mechanical pump.

I think the limiting factor right now is carb tune and ignition. The carb has basics rebuild, but jetting could help. Timing is stock, and I have not pulled distributor to see if advance weights are stuck, etc. I may be leaving a lot on the table here.

First is to get the gas tank sealed so I can see how the synthetic fluids, exhaust, etc helped. Then I will start with other stuff.

Thanks for the POSITIVE contribution!
 
You should def. be able to get better mileage.

My 72 225 with electronic ign, 2 barrel carb, 3 speed auto, 14 wheels, gets 28-33mpg. But the engine is rebuilt, new carb, new radiator,everything new.

I would like to figure out how to put a 5 speed behind the motor.

Question for you. What part of the country are you from. Different parts of the country have different validity fuel. Here in MI we get worse mileage than other states because our fuel is lower validity. Required by law because of our lakes. Food for thought. Every time I head out west when I hit Indiana my mileage sky rockets.

Good luck on your quest.
 
oneway71 said:
You should def. be able to get better mileage.

My 72 225 with electronic ign, 2 barrel carb, 3 speed auto, 14 wheels, gets 28-33mpg. But the engine is rebuilt, new carb, new radiator,everything new.

I would like to figure out how to put a 5 speed behind the motor.

Question for you. What part of the country are you from. Different parts of the country have different validity fuel. Here in MI we get worse mileage than other states because our fuel is lower validity. Required by law because of our lakes. Food for thought. Every time I head out west when I hit Indiana my mileage sky rockets.

Good luck on your quest.
Click to expand...

1. I am in Kansas City. I do not know where we stand on the fuel situation....that may be part of the situation?
2. Historically the 2bbl does better on MPG. For now, I have the 1bbl, if I stumble on a 2bbl, or super six setup I would consider going that way.
3. This engine is tired. Leaks oil like crazy by the oil pump, lots of blow by. I can't imagine how the valves look, gunk wise. It will hold for a while, until I get around to rebuilding the spare /6 in the garage.
 
Backtobasics said:
1. I am in Kansas City. I do not know where we stand on the fuel situation....that may be part of the situation?
2. Historically the 2bbl does better on MPG. For now, I have the 1bbl, if I stumble on a 2bbl, or super six setup I would consider going that way.
3. This engine is tired. Leaks oil like crazy by the oil pump, lots of blow by. I can't imagine how the valves look, gunk wise. It will hold for a while, until I get around to rebuilding the spare /6 in the garage.
Click to expand...

Ive got an extra 2brrl, I pulled off this one. It worked the only reason I replaced it was when I did the motor I bought everything that attached to it, including radiator. I figure if you are going to touch it update it; although this isnt always the best. I got a new 2 brrl through Advance for $119..but it was for a newer /6 still workes fine.

On fuel validity..in winter they sometimes change the blends. All this is EPA "stuff"
 
Good info. It is stiting athe moment, it has been toolcold to run her. I will get her fired this weekend. I reallyn need to get a manual clutch cable hooked up, that will make things much easier.
 
Backtobasics said:
Well, I haven't gone back to the 62 yet, I have been short on time.
I started tearing it down for flat black. I am spraying it tonight, but this entire tank has been the 64, so I will leave it with 64 jet for the test.
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When I installed a Holley re-man on the 73, fuel mileage plummeted. When I checked the carb, it had a 62 jet, where my shop manual said it should have a 52. I re-built the carb, correcting a float problem in the process, and changed the jet to a 52. I cleaned and gapped the plugs, too. The changes have moved me from the low teens on the highway to the mid-twenties.

The engine has 190K on it. Compression is low, it runs notoriously cold. No manifold heat. It has an oversize exhaust manifold and a 2¼" exhaust system. The transmission is the original 904G, still in good shape. The axle is a BBP 7¼ with 2.76:1 gears, 205/60-15 tires.
 
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