My 360 rebuild adventure.

-

JohnnyRingo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2011
Messages
119
Reaction score
10
Location
Portland, OR
So....

Full disclosure: I know absolutely nothing about nothing, and I'm learning a ton as I move along. With that, I'm sure I've made a couple of mistakes that will probably be evident as I make this post and thread. Also, this is all for my 67 Dart restoration project.

A couple months ago I purchased a turn key 360 E58 with a 727 transmission from a local wrecking yard that specializes only in Mopar stuff. I purchased this engine for a couple of reasons. 1) It's turn key ready, so I ASSUMED (wrongfully) that I'd probably be good to go with something like this. 2) Because it's the high performance/cop car engine/Lil Red Express equivalent engine and would be a good strong runner.

Anyway, I got the engine delivered to my garage and started down this dark road. I began probably one of the most daunting tasks of my life--cleaning the grease/grime/dirt off of this engine and transmission. After probably 20 hours and $100 in cleaning chemicals (carb cleaner, engine degreaser, simple green, oven cleaner, etc), I finally got this block just about cleaned up and down to the original bare metal and paint in some spots. I was actually pretty proud of myself with how much I was able to do by hand.

Well, dad finally came up to town and we started unbolting a lot of the old factory pieces off like the water pump, intake manifold, yadda yadda. As soon as we popped the intake manifold off I could see disaster already happening. The camshaft lobes were all pitted and at least four of the push rods were bent (the only ones that would move with my finger). I suppose it doesn't take an expert to know that either of those things are bad news.

So after a long week of debate, I decided to rip the entire damn thing apart and start a rebuild project. I didn't see any major issues other than the push rods/lifters/camshaft going on.

I took the block to the machine shop along with the heads and crank. At the first brief inspection, I learned the block had never been rebuilt (which is odd, because the block had a Mopar Factory Rebuild placard tacked onto the side of it). The bores were fine and the pistons, rods, etc all appeared to be stock.

So I'm awaiting a call back from the machine shop to determine whether or not the block is even useable before I start buying all new parts. I guess one question is, am I out of line for calling the place I bought the motor from and asking for some sort of credit for the camshaft/lifters/push rods? A part of me feels that if I paid what I paid for it ($600) that those parts SHOULD have been in normal working order. They ran the engine before it was pulled and said it ran fine--I made the mistake of not actually being there for it, I suppose. They initially offered to give me a new (I'm assuming used) camshaft and push rods as a replacement. However, I told them at this point that I was now tearing the entire engine apart and awaiting a call back to find out if the block is even good or not, and now ordering an aftermarket camshaft now that I'm this deep in the project. I'm currently waiting for a call back from the owner in response to my question about a potential credit.

I'm already looking at dropping probably $3500 in parts between Summit and Mancini, and haven't even factored in the cost of machine work. I really never had any idea that undertaking something like this would keep having dollar signs sneak up on me.

Now some pictures:

DSC_0353.jpg


DSC_0359.jpg


DSC_0383.jpg


DSC_0385.jpg


DSC_0387.jpg


DSC_0389.jpg


-Kyle
 
I'd complain. You paid $600 for a $300 engine and trans.
 
I think maybe they should give you some money back but I don't think they have to. It also isn't right to say it costs $3500 plus machine work to fix because that sounds like a high performance total rebuild with a lot of higher end parts. You could just do factory cam lifters and pushrods for under $200 and you might have the motor you thought you were getting in the first place. I have under $1000 in my 360 rebuild but I did save a bunch using low mile magnum used heads. That's with new pistons even.
I also bet that motor did run with some pitting on the cam and a few bent pushrods. You just may never know about stuff like this until you tear it apart. I think you do have a good starting point in that E58. Was the motor and tranny $600? because that really isn't that bad for what probably really was a running e58 and 727.
 
I think maybe they should give you some money back but I don't think they have to. It also isn't right to say it costs $3500 plus machine work to fix because that sounds like a high performance total rebuild with a lot of higher end parts. You could just do factory cam lifters and pushrods for under $200 and you might have the motor you thought you were getting in the first place. I have under $1000 in my 360 rebuild but I did save a bunch using low mile magnum used heads. That's with new pistons even.
I also bet that motor did run with some pitting on the cam and a few bent pushrods. You just may never know about stuff like this until you tear it apart. I think you do have a good starting point in that E58. Was the motor and tranny $600? because that really isn't that bad for what probably really was a running e58 and 727.

Oh don't get me wrong, I don't think they are obligated, necessarily, to HAVE to reimburse me. I do think it'd be outstanding customer service, though. The $3,500 I was talking about is all stuff I planned on my own, and I'm only doing the machine work while it's torn down. My issue will be if the block is no good after the machine shop checks it. I didn't mean for that to sound like I was going to HAVE to pay that amount to fix it.

I paid $800 total for the 360/727 dropped off at my front door. The lesson I learned is to just buy a block next time and build up from there. I do have a lot of parts laying on my garage floor now that I simply won't be using.
 
What are you planning on spending 3,500 bucks on? It seems the first intentions with this engine was to have a running motor for cheap. now your talking about spending $3,500? what are you planning on buying and doing? I'm assuming since this motor wasn't a good running motor you said F it let me build a fast motor? Let us know what your doing here and what you want out of it, we will tell you what parts you need and what to do.
 
sir dan, your dart looks perfect if you ask me. I would have never thought to do orange pinstripe and orange wheels on flat black but it looks great. Sorry about the thread hijack!
 
Hi,

can´t see it exactly, but the trans pan looks like a 904 to me - check it out, maybe post some better pics of the trans alone.

Michael
 
thats normal cam ware for a high milage engine be sure to check for stuck valves
 
So here's what I'm looking at buying for this thing. Now not ALL of the parts are specifically for the engine and definitely upgrades (ie: headers instead of exhaust manifolds, etc). that I'm choosing to do. Everything is priced out through Summit with exception of the engine rebuild kit, which is through Mancini. I'm assuming Mancini is decent stuff (was going to ask opinions at a later date), but I don't know for certain. Some of the items are also just replacement parts for gunked up items like the fuel pump and water pump.

Turbo Start S24MY - Turbo Start AGM Sealed Maintenance-Free Restoration Series Batteries - $209.00

COMP Cams 20-214-4 - COMP Cams Magnum Hydraulic Camshafts - $144.99

COMP Cams 867-16 - COMP Cams Pro Magnum Hydraulic Lifters - $94.95

Cloyes Gear 9-1103 - Cloyes Street True Roller Timing Sets - $45.95

Mopar Performance P4007040AB - Mopar Performance Mechanical Fuel Pumps - $44.95

Mopar Performance P5007611 - Mopar Performance Cast Aluminum Valve Covers - $112.88

Mopar Performance P5249558 - Mopar Performance Mechanical Water Pumps - $62.95

Doug's Headers D453 - Doug's Headers - $605.95

Edelbrock 7576 - Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifolds - $263.95

Griffin Thermal Products 8-00038 - Griffin Dominator Series Radiators - $279.69

MSD Ignition 8200 - MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coils - $43.95

Summit Racing SUM-850003-1 - Summit Racing® Electronic Mopar Distributors - $159.95

Summit Racing SUM-M08750VS - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Carburetors - $249.95

Tuff Stuff Performance 7509RFSP - Tuff Stuff Replacement Alternators - $102.95

Michigan Engine Kit - "D" - $719.95
(includes)
-Clevite Rods
-Clevite Mains
-Clevite Cam Bearings
-Freeze Plugs
-Melling Oil Pump
-Felpro Gasket Set
-Sealed Power Rings (Moly)
-Sterling Pistons (Forged)
 
Just talked to the machine shop on the phone.

$326 for all the engine cleaning/maganflux/boring....will probably have to be bored to at least .030 over. Worst case scenario, .040 due to some wear.

$94 for the crank to be ground, unfortunately it can't be polished because it has a few scratches on it and what not.

He said something about balancing it and $200 for a flex plate and installation or something, and to be honest, I don't even know what it means to have the engine balanced.

Then some other figures for miscellaneous things/labor. Oh, and $500 for the heads to be redone.
 
I much enjoy this thread. I am undertaking a very similar project. Keep it going please. I am learning some good here.
 
hehe...good luck....sounds like your machine shop has you pegged...you will learn...-young grasshoppa.

Here is a quick reference to the shape of some Transmission Pans.....(which is the best way to identify them)...the 904 and 727 differ Greatly and are easy to identify.
http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/images/8/8f/Transmissions-8614.gif

Good Luck.

Ok, now you're scaring me with the whole having me pegged part. I went with this machine shop (It's actually part of the NAPA store here in Portland) and came recommended by a guy my dad dealt with through Napa way back in the day. Are those prices too high? Are they doing work that's not necessary?

Thanks!
 
Well, here are the damages so far:

Engine block prep - $150.00
Engine rebore (.030 over) - $176.00
Crank Grind (10/10) - $93.33
Engine balance - $200.00
Cylinder head work (including removing seized exhaust mainfold bolts) - $500.00

Eagle 6123CB Connecting Rods - $235.96 (eBay)
B&M BMM-10236 Flex Plate - $76.95 (Summit)
Cloyes CLO-9-1103 Double roller timing set - $45.95 (Summit)
Summit SUM-163318 OEM Harmonic Dampener - $76.95 (Summit)
Engine Rebuild kit with Keith Black 232 pistons, rings, bearings, etc. - $595.00 (Mancini)\

Grand total of about $2200.00 so far. Is it tax refund season again yet???
 
Well, here are the damages so far:

Engine block prep - $150.00
Engine rebore (.030 over) - $176.00
Crank Grind (10/10) - $93.33
Engine balance - $200.00
Cylinder head work (including removing seized exhaust mainfold bolts) - $500.00

Eagle 6123CB Connecting Rods - $235.96 (eBay)
B&M BMM-10236 Flex Plate - $76.95 (Summit)
Cloyes CLO-9-1103 Double roller timing set - $45.95 (Summit)
Summit SUM-163318 OEM Harmonic Dampener - $76.95 (Summit)
Engine Rebuild kit with Keith Black 232 pistons, rings, bearings, etc. - $595.00 (Mancini)\

Grand total of about $2200.00 so far. Is it tax refund season again yet???
$500 on the heads is that for stock valves or you going to 2.02/1.60?? at this point you might as well... the machine work looks good price wise to me, and $200.00 for the balancing of the oem crank is a good price too. IMO
 
Yeah those are all better than fair prices, IMO.
 
$500 on the heads is that for stock valves or you going to 2.02/1.60?? at this point you might as well... the machine work looks good price wise to me, and $200.00 for the balancing of the oem crank is a good price too. IMO

Thanks for the reply! The customer service and level of patience and respect that the machine shop has shown me is nothing short of impressive. They understand that I don't know certain things and they're taking the time to explain everything to me, including the engine balancing aspect. The guy even told me how much the flex plate would cost for him to order, and he suggested to me to look elsewhere for it to save money on it (50% savings versus him ordering at cost + mark ups). Glad to know the prices are fair, and with the recommendation they received from someone my father dealt with when he was in the parts business makes me feel very at ease.

As far as the valves go, you've lost me on that part. I would assume they are stock valves although I don't know, nothing really came up about that. We had talked about having them cleaned/magna fluxed/etc, along with the seized bolts and a broken easy out taken care of. I assume that's something I should call them back about? What are the benefits of those numbers and what do they mean, exactly? They are the stock heads that I'm going to work with. I will most likely buy new rocker arms at some point soon, I'm still learning about the benefits of aluminum vs. steel/etc etc etc.

Thanks again,

Kyle
 
I guees it depends on what you want to do with your car, the sizes I referred to were the stock sizes for the 340 of yester year, your 360 heads if they have not been modified would be 1.88/ 1.60 so you would only have to tell the machine shop to open up the intake valve size to 2.02 the 1.60 on the exhaust is good, so you would need 8 2.02 intake valves and now would be the time to do it since they are going to rebuild your heads now, I dont know how much HP you'd gain but most people do this when they have thier heads rebuilt, unless they go with an aftermarket head, ie; Edlebrock etc.
 
I guees it depends on what you want to do with your car, the sizes I referred to were the stock sizes for the 340 of yester year, your 360 heads if they have not been modified would be 1.88/ 1.60 so you would only have to tell the machine shop to open up the intake valve size to 2.02 the 1.60 on the exhaust is good, so you would need 8 2.02 intake valves and now would be the time to do it since they are going to rebuild your heads now, I dont know how much HP you'd gain but most people do this when they have thier heads rebuilt, unless they go with an aftermarket head, ie; Edlebrock etc.

The end goal is a solid street motor that has good power to burn the tires and drag maybe once in a blue moon. Not going to be a daily driver, but something that can still run on regular gas, etc. Hence why I didn't shell out for the aluminum heads or what have you. Would having those intake valves opened require the purchase of any particularly different parts for the heads?
 
nope you can still use stock rockers and push rods. you'll just benefit more from a bigger cam as those bigger intake valves will let more fuel and air in. and you dont need to go crazy on the cam either.
 
The 2.02 valves won't need anything special to work and it will only cost a couple dollars more to have the installed, Now is the time to do it. That cam is kind of small for a 360, The 280 would be a better choice. Remember that you will need a converter that does not have the balance weights on it now also because of the flexplate you are using.
 
"Remember that you will need a converter that does not have the balance weights on it now also because of the flexplate you are using. "

Excellent point!! or at least knock the weights off of the one you have now.
 
-
Back
Top