My motor runs cool....maybe too cool?

[jcolman]

If Noone said it yet, the sniper has and needs its own temp probe. Where is that installed, and what temp does the sniper say on the handheld???

The sniper will give a temp readout on the handheld!! So you have 2 sources to compare already!!!

Where is your temp probe for your gauge installed?

The sniper won't even go in open loop under 180 degrees.

Have you compared both Temps? Sniper and gauge?

Thanks for all the info. I know that the sniper won't go into open loop under 180. But I have about 500 miles on the system already. I'll have to check the other factors once the car is out of the shop...hopefully by the end of next week.

 

[512Stroker]

Except he is efi, and the efi system doesn't even "learn" until it hits 180. So he is basically driving around with the "choke on" 90% of the time if the Temps he is claiming are correct.

Correct you are.
I missed that the OP's engine has EFI.

 

[Mike69cuda]

IR temp guns are one of the coolest new tools I have. If you use a IR temp gun, keep in mind that they are basically calibrated to work on non-reflective surfaces. Flat black works well. Shiny or reflective surfaces will mess up accuracy of the measurement. Took me awhile to figure that out….

 

[MopaR&D]

I would not worry about it.
A lot of forum members would kill for those coolant temps.

I feel like that temp is great for performance but if it sees much street miles that's too cold IMO. Harder to get the oil up to temp to boil off condensation and the part-throttle efficiency will be worse, and possibly more liquid fuel making it into the cylinders and washing down the oil as well (I know not likely with EFI though). All said and done anyway the OP would probably only lose 10-ish HP at WOT with the engine running at 180 degrees instead of 150. Not to mention the EFI system not being able to work correctly below 180.

 

[jcolman]

Are you certain that there is a thermostat currently installed?

Turns out that there isn't a thermostat. The thermostat housing I have does not accept a thermostat and neither does the manifold because it's intended to be recessed into the upper housing. I had the shop order a thermostat housing with the recess for a thermostat and I also ordered an upper radiator hose. Hopefully the one I have now will work but I'll get an OEM fit hose just in case.

 

[mopowers]

Turns out that there isn't a thermostat. The thermostat housing I have does not accept a thermostat and neither does the manifold because it's intended to be recessed into the upper housing. I had the shop order a thermostat housing with the recess for a thermostat and I also ordered an upper radiator hose. Hopefully the one I have now will work but I'll get an OEM fit hose just in case.

Well, there ya go. That'll make a difference. Thanks for following up.

 

[harrisonm]

No, you should verify first, before you turn a wrench or you're just guessing. Infrared temp guns are cheap. You should already have one.

I use my wife's candy thermometer stuck in the radiator, with the cap off of course. I just let them idle up to temp and see if the gauge reads the same as the thermometer.

But, I'm cheap.

I cannot overstate how much I agree with RRR. I have an IR thermometer that is about 15 years old. I paid about $100 for it back then. For only about $20, everybody should have one in their toolbox. I use it ALL the time. I bought it for powder coating, but it comes in really handy. You can use it to double check a temp gauge by aiming it at the thermostat housing. If the engine is missing, you can aim it at the header tube or exhaust manifold port for each cylinder. If 7 cylinders ate around 400 degrees and one is around 300, that is a good place to start. Plus it is fun to do things like measuring the temp of the driveway or a car dash on a hot summer day. LOL