my project 62 lancer

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alfonso

alfonso

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i am taking my 62 lancer and removing sl6 and installing a four banger from mopar direct connection catalog

should look sweet in engine bay,with turbos in future
hopefully i can sell my 340 and use the cash for the four banger

this is the power output from mother mopar la based 4 cyl
Midget motor dressed and ready to install. Note in the photo: cam driven dry sump oil pump system and aluminum oil pan, crank driven water pump and lack of a distributor. This uses a Distributorless Ignition system (shown with the W8 head, not the HEMI). Headers shown are for a midget race car.
P5007961 Full Engine (W9 heads)
Rated power 350 hp@ 7200; 265 lb-ft @ 6,000
Redline 8,500 recommended; 9,000 max
Displacement 162 cid (38 cc combustion chambers)
Compression 15:1 (methanol)
Crank and cam Scat crank, roller cam with 60 mm bearings

P5007467 drag race block (v8 flywheel housing for RWD transmissions) for P5 Hemi head
tremec 5 speed maybe

The drag race block listed $5,217 in 2010 (and was sold retail for under $5,000). The wedge-head race blocks, listed as being designed for USAC Midget and drag racing, ran $6,644, list, in 2010. Both came with steel billet caps, ductile iron sleeves, and a hardware kit.

The block top deck is extra thick to allow for O-ringing and forced induction. The racers that are currently utilizing this engine are walking away with all the marbles over the GM "Iron Duke" based engines.

A pair of turbos, sequentially fed through proper charge air cooling, should push the motor in this application, to over 600 hp and have FAR more durability that a 2.2/2.5 or 2.0/2.4 engine and a higher rpm range.


well i think it will surprise a few next spring 2012 as i going to leave her stock appearing and using halibrand quick change rear to handle
my whims
also want him ready for run at maxton mile in 2012.
 

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Are you serious? That would be wickedly nasty different.
 
if any one from west coast has a 4 banger usac midget mopar engine willing to put into project as sponsor or trade for fresh 340 engine leave pm
also looking for sponsors or fabrication partners for maxston mile lsr project

this is a fun project with plenty of potential exposure for advertising
and bragging rights

feel free to call me at 404573 2691
need all the input i can get
thanks alfonso
 
found this article of someone else using the 4 cyl with a dakota 5 speed
enjoy the reading


Jim Szilagyi "LoCost 7"

This kit car project really started with the engine that I have installed in my car. This engine is a Mopar A-4 4-cylinder racing engine that is normally used in USAC Midget racing cars (4 cylinder sprint cars). In my job at Chrysler, I led the development team on this racing engine for Mopar Performance Parts. This engine was designed and developed as a team with Gary Stanton (National Sprint Car Hall of Fame Member), Tim Zuehlke (at my engineering and design supplier - Applied Technologies Inc - Toledo Ohio), my Co-workers at Mopar, and Myself.

This engine was designed as 1/2 of a V-8 World of Outlaws sprint car engine, using one W-9 Aluminum cylinder head on a special 4-cylinder aluminum racing block. The engine features a unique crankshaft, camshaft, and block, but all other parts are common with the V-8 racing engine. Since the introduction of this engine in 2001, it has won about 25 major Midget races. In racing form, these engines produce about 350+ HP w/ mechanical fuel injection on methanol.

After this racing engine was up and running, I wanted to build one and put it into a project car. I wanted to have one of “my” engines in my car. Since this is a 4-cylinder engine, I wanted to install it in very light car that would provide good performance. I also wanted a car that could be used on the street, and maybe autocross or similar speed events for street legal cars. I could not find a suitable production based car that offered the performance potential that I was after. The only car that offered what I was after is the Lotus 7 type cars, since they are known as “racers for the road.

I began looking for a new or used Caterham, Birkin, and at many other Lotus 7 type kit cars. These cars are very nice, but substantially more expensive than what I could afford for this project. These cars were all in the $15,000 to $30,000 range not including the engine and transmission. My brother Alex Szilagyi told me about a book he had seen “Build Your Own Sports Car for as little as $250” (British pounds) by Ron Champion. I ordered the book, and did an internet search and learned about the Champion Motor Car Company in Madison, Alabama (www.championmotorcars.com), and the CMC Seven. The CMC Seven is built using a donor car and reuses as many components as possible. In September 2001, I bought the “Do It Yourself” kit from Champion Motor Cars for $1,300. This kit includes the precut tubing for the frame, brackets, suspension arms, and fiberglass nose cone / fenders / cowl. Ron Champion’s book is the build manual that explains how to build the car.

The frame was welded up on sturdy table that I built (as shown in the book). You can also buy the frame from Champion Motor Cars for a little higher price.

I didn’t have a donor car, so I began gathering parts that could be used to build this car. My father gave me a 1985 Toyota Corolla GTS rear axle, drive shaft, steering rack, spherical bearing heim joints, and a set of coil over shocks w/ springs. These parts were originally obtained to build a race car, but never used. The rear axle had custom made brackets on it for a 4 link rear suspension w/ a panhard bar. My Father made these brackets for a racecar, but they fit the CMC Seven without any modifications at all (unbelievable). My brother gave me 2 sets of Toyota wheels, a steering wheel, brake proportioning valve, “used” aluminum sheets for the body, and an extra rear axle. I bought Mustang II front spindles at a swap meet for $20, and bought rebuilt front calipers, new rotors and wheel bearings at a local auto parts store. I had the front rotors re-drilled to match the same bolt pattern that was on the rear axle. I had a “used” Dakota V-6 5-speed transmission w/ clutch, flywheel, and starter left over from another project. I used this transmission since it bolted right up to the Mopar A-4 engine (common Dodge / Mopar small block bolt pattern).

I made the seats for about $25 using plywood , foam, and an old Connolly leather hyde that my wife has had for many years. With these parts, I was able to build a complete rolling chassis for about $3,500 (including everything but the engine). It took me about 6 months to build and assemble the rolling chassis. I think I could have saved more money if I had a donor car that could have been stripped of other usable parts (i.e. electrical components, brake parts, seat belts, seat covers, gauges, etc).

The engine took about 1.5 years to complete since I had to be really creative to build it at a reasonable price. A complete professionally built Mopar A-4 Midget racing engine costs about $29,000 including the dry sump oiling system, mechanical fuel injection, and distributor-less ignition system. I waited several months for the very first forged A-4 crankshaft so that I would not have to buy a custom made billet piece. I used common generic V-8 pistons and rods w/ minor machining modifications to work in this engine. I made the belt drive distributor, intake manifold (modified V-8 piece), motor plate, water pump (highly modified Chrysler 2.6L minivan pump), pulleys, dry sump oil tank, steering shaft, modified header, and many other parts. The engine was built for about $6,500 w/ me doing all the labor. The entire project took about 2 years and the total cost of the car was about $10,000 including the engine.

Special thanks are in order for the following people who helped make this project successful:

My wife Julie Szilagyi for putting up with my dream. Alex Szilagyi (my brother), A.J. Szilagyi (my dad), Gary Stanton, Tim Zuehlke, Bill Hancock-Arrow Racing Engines, Mancini Racing, Scat, Steve and Chase Laurendine-Champion Motor Cars, and Ron Champion.


so i will contact the above person for insight and references away i go



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Main Journal Type OEM
Engine Block Style Aftermarket
Deck Height (in) 8.400 in.
Cylinder Bore as Shipped 4.130 in.
Engine Block Material Aluminum
Main Caps Included Yes
Main Cap Material Aluminum
Main Cap Fasteners Included Yes
Main Bearings Included No
Rear Main Seal Style 2-piece
Finished Cylinder Bores No
Raised Cam Location No
Cam Bearings Included No
Freeze Plugs Included No
Quantity Sold individually.

These Mopar Performance A-4 aluminum midget race engine blocks are designed to take midget racing to an all-new level. They are manufactured from quality aluminum and include cast iron sleeves, billet steel or billet aluminum main caps, a main cap stud kit, and mounting hardware. The Mopar Performance A-4 aluminum midget race blocks feature an unfinished 4.130 in. bore and are available in 8.40 in. or 9.00 in. deck heights for your specific engine's needs. The engine blocks accept the W9 raised-port aluminum cylinder heads manufactured specifically for sprint or Midget racing. If you're building a midget racing engine, try one of these Mopar Performance A-4 aluminum midget race blocks for a bulletproof combination.
 

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two in a row make a straight 8 lsr coupe, i think
i am getting out of control
bye
 
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