My sons old Duster cryo cam install

[66Valiant528]

So we sold the kids Duster about 3 years ago and it's found its way back to me to have a bigger solid cam installed. When I put the current 268S 10 Comp in I did the spring swap break in procedure and no problem. That was probably 7 years ago. Anyway the new owner saw my cam recommendation and contacted me. He couldn't find any shop that'd work on a Mopar SB and if they were interested at all once a solid cam was mentioned it was no go. Anyway the Comp solid cam shows up and it says to have the cam hardened. WTF....so, as it's not my car the owner is apprised and says "do it". We got the cam and lifters cryo'd and had the cam coated with some proprietary coating. If anyone's interested in having complete engines done its 1500 bucks! A deal. Herkimian in Watertown Ma.
Anyway the car showed up today. It got a 727 , but other than that a glass front bumper and interior mods it the same. Ran 12.49s @ 108 mph consistently. The new cam is a 520/540 282/290 solid. (I think) Worked 308 heads on a fat top MP 360 LA short block. Car made 305 rwhp before. Now there's a pile of new parts. This is a street car. Should run high 11s.

Holley Strip dominator intake, 750 DP,
Flowcooler water pump , made in USA Carter HP fuel pump and. Dynamic 4200 RPM vert. I can't wait to dial in the new cam. I wish I never sold this car....that should be the name of this post

 

[B3422w5]

Just my experience….never seen a solid cam install in my circle fail if three conditions are met. Have never pulled inner springs either.
1. lifters spin freely in the lifter bores…if they don’t, your going to have trouble
2. Use the lifters with the oil hole on the face..great extra insurance
3. get the engine to fire up in short order after the cam install, and immediately bring it up to 2500 rpm or so and let it run for 15-20 minutes like that.
This all assumes use of quality cam lube liberally applied to the lobes.

 

[66Valiant528]

I've never had a cam install fail either but as this is a paying job it can't fail. Comp recommends treating the cam, running there oil, which is Driven, and pulling springs .
The cryo treatment was done to the cam and lifters (in a vaccuum) and then the cam was given a special coating. This was about 250 and now springs are not required to be removed and just run it with BR40 for 300 miles and then change. Saves me time which saves the customer money.
I'm interested to see what the solid cam I put in 5 years ago looks like. I always ran Comp additive and I ran zinc rich oils. Told the guy I sold the car to. I believe the present owner (who I didn't know) is aware about oil issues and has been good to the engine as well.
I'll post some pix when I get it done.

 

[66Valiant528]

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