Need a hand identifying...

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GhostFish

GhostFish

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I have a spare a904 I'm going to put in my 66 due to the one in it failing over the summer. I'm trying to figure out what year it is so I can order the proper shift kit for it.

Now I've done my internet research and I'm having a really hard time finding any information on this particular trans. Here is the info I dug off of it:

Off the driver side casting above the pan rail: 2466948-2
Off the driver side pan rail itself: 22(double stamped)801534Y 2558611

Can anyone give me a hand figuring out what year this came out of? I've looked on [ame]http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf[/ame] already and it's not listed there and Google is failing me tonight.

Thank a ton in advance. I look forward to hanging around here.

Ant
 
Are there any passenger side pan rail numbers? Maybe starting with a "PK", which is the Kokomo, Ind. plant?
 
"Off the driver side pan rail itself: 22(double stamped)801534Y 2558611"

so it reads 22801534Y 2558611. I assume these are stamped number and not cast in case? There should be a raised boss with stamped vin numbers on it might be pp or pk(the assy factory) xxxxxxx (year digit, car factory, and last 6 vin) xxxx (assy date) xxxx (number assy that day). see if you can find them easy from there.
 
I can cross a 2801534Y if you accidently put an extra 2 in the front. If that is it I am showing it to be a 68 and 69 transmission. Both show to use 2801295 for the lower valve body.

If this is your transmission and you still have the original engine in your car you likely will have a problem with the hub on the torque convertor being too big.
 
@rocky_js Yes, they are stamped and it was probably meant to be a single 2 but it's stamped then stamped again about half way on top of the first two.

@Oklacarcollecto That would be correct. And thanks a ton for figuring that out. Not sure where you crossed it to.

I went ahead and snapped some shots of the trans. There was nothing stamped on the passenger side rail or upper casting above it like the driver side.

http://goo.gl/vy2Hn
http://goo.gl/bLClM
http://goo.gl/kXgGT
http://goo.gl/RBRVq

Thanks again guys. It's much appreciated.
 
DarcCuda66 said:
@rocky_js Yes, they are stamped and it was probably meant to be a single 2 but it's stamped then stamped again about half way on top of the first two.

@Oklacarcollecto That would be correct. And thanks a ton for figuring that out. Not sure where you crossed it to.

I went ahead and snapped some shots of the trans. There was nothing stamped on the passenger side rail or upper casting above it like the driver side.


Thanks again guys. It's much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Be sure and check out the hub to make sure it will work for your application. When the changed the hub size they also changed the spline count on the torque convertor so the older convertor won't fit.
 
I'm going to go ahead and admit now that I'm a tinkerer and this is my first "real" project car. My dad has rebuilt a lot of stuff but got out of it in the past few years.

I'm guessing that I won't be able to tell until I drop the old trans right?
 
DarcCuda66 said:
I'm going to go ahead and admit now that I'm a tinkerer and this is my first "real" project car. My dad has rebuilt a lot of stuff but got out of it in the past few years.

I'm guessing that I won't be able to tell until I drop the old trans right?
Click to expand...

If you can positively identify the engine year then that would tell you. You would need to ask what the two hub measurements are so you could see what your transmission hub is for sure.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
If you can positively identify the engine year then that would tell you. You would need to ask what the two hub measurements are so you could see what your transmission hub is for sure.
Click to expand...

I know for a fact it's got a 68 318 LA. So I would assume that's good news for me! The trans in it looks pretty close too. I can see any numbers on it but I'll check everything and make sure the hubs match before I put the new trans in... You are the man Okla.
 
Rocky_JS said:
"Off the driver side pan rail itself: 22(double stamped)801534Y 2558611"

so it reads 22801534Y 2558611. I assume these are stamped number and not cast in case? There should be a raised boss with stamped vin numbers on it might be pp or pk(the assy factory) xxxxxxx (year digit, car factory, and last 6 vin) xxxx (assy date) xxxx (number assy that day). see if you can find them easy from there.
Click to expand...

Hey John, do you think the 2280 could be the date code.....Oct, 27 1967..?
 
as Okla said,
the register in the crankshaft will be smaller in the 66 engine than the 68. They can make a converter with a small register and large pump it costs more. This is all assuming you have the OE stuff still in your car need to verify engine casting on side of block.
 

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Man, the amount of information on this site, let alone this one thread is friggin mind boggling. And here I thought I had a decent understanding... is there anymore info I can get off the trans to help before I go ordering more of the wrong parts? Already returning the first shift kit. It was for a 71-79.
 
Looks like we're all in the late 60's ballpark........wonder if any other numbers are on the bell housing flange?
 
I'll check it out tomorrow and post back here. The grommet I was waiting on for the gas tank filler finally came in so I'll be putting the fuel system in. Gotta love progress!
 
2558 sounds like the build date.

Check input shaft spline and converter register diameter. That should tell you what it is.
 
I just saw that #2801534 is for a 67 273 2bbl. so i'm guessing that's is it?. I was off, but still learning the number stuff :D.
 
OldmanRick said:
Hey John, do you think the 2280 could be the date code.....Oct, 27 1967..?
Click to expand...

OldmanRick said:
I just saw that #2801534 is for a 67 273 2bbl. so i'm guessing that's is it?. I was off, but still learning the number stuff :D.
Click to expand...

Could it be a 67' leftover that found it's way into a early 68'? Just asking and trying to learn. In my day the cars were still new enough that we didn't worry about stuff like this :smile:.
 
pm sent to you Rick, yeah we didn't even think to worry about that stuff back in the day. I couldn't afford to even if I did, always took path of least resistance read as cheapest path haha!
 
Rocky_JS said:
pm sent to you Rick, yeah we didn't even think to worry about that stuff back in the day. I couldn't afford to even if I did, always took path of least resistance read as cheapest path haha!
Click to expand...

That's what my pa always told me as well lol. Just get it going to enjoy it, then worry about the details when you can!
 
It has a single pin neutral safety switch and 68 was the last year they used a single pin switch. Assuming it's original switch that means it's a 68 or older trans. You definitely need to measure the torque converter register. It needs to be 1.81" od for a 68 or newer engine. The good thing is if it is a small hub converter you can get an adapter ring from Torqueflitepatty on E-bay for about $30 to install on the converter to mate it up to your engine. If it were the other way around (67 or older engine with a 68 or newer trans) you'd need to have a torque converter special made for it.
 
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