Need a new drive shaft what is everyone using

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skep419

skep419

5.9 Magnum 4 speed afficionado
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My drive shaft has a wicked shake and I was wondering what everyone is using for shafts. The local shop i was going to have do the balancing said they would have to install new u joints in order to balance it properly. So I went ahead and installed a new set. They are 7260 u joints (315G NAPA). Brought the shaft to them and he said it wouldn't balance because of a dent and a missing weight. They wanted 180 plus the cost of the tube. There is a shop in Sioux Falls called drive-line specialties that everyone seems to recommend and they will do it for 125 (price includes the tube)

The engine makes a little over 400hp 2800 stall full manual, 8 3/4 3.91 suregrip. I race it at the track with slicks 2-4 times a year.

Drive-line specialties originally suggested I go to the 1350 u joint. $250 would include the new front yoke, new shaft but I would still have to buy a new rear yoke.

Don't really have the much ching laying around but I would rather not waste 125 putting a weak link in my build.

What do you guys think 7260's with a new tube good enough.

I was also looking into u joint girdles for the rear yoke. anybody using these http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/85850/10002/-1
710-85850.jpg
 
corp_0904_01_z+looking_at_drive_shaft_balancing+broken_tube.jpg


Picture of what I don't want to happen (not my shaft)
 
Sheeet,you can't get that one straightened out:bootysha:All kidding aside,IMOP save your money and get the good shaft with the bigger joints.That way when you step the power up later{you know you will!}you have already eliminated one of the weak links.Besides,,,,,,,,,,,I like bigger joints.:flower::rolleyes:
 
You had a gm shaft in your car? ? ? no wonder why you had a problem... 3R series and t350 slips would usually cause a issue in a Mopar

A dent and a missing weight doesn't mean you need a re-tube unless it is in fact bent...

95% of the time a dent is not a bend... and it can be balanced...

Do you have a pic of the dent ?


If you had to make a new shaft then i would do 1310 x 7260, using the spl series joints you could double that hp.
 
Not a GM shaft. I will take some pics tomorrow. Drive shaft is at work.
 
I bought a set of girdles like that in the mid 90s. I don't remember if I ever used them or not. I don't think I did.

Man, if I had all of the money I spent on parts that I didn't use over the years, I'd be um... Well, less in debt, I guess.
 
That shaft in the picture kinda looks like GM if you had 7260 series.

I would leave those girdles at jegs too
 
igot a 3inch chrome molly 1350 joints no slip yoke had one for 275 at my door they said it would be good for 1200 horse 48inch long
 
Got a 3" custom made by a local company with 1350 u-joints,thing i paid $250.00 well worth ih for the peace-of-mind..
 
custom made with yokes? for 250

The front and rear yokes alone are 250
 
we have a local shop here in spokane called murls drive line... he did mine it was 120 that was shortened balanced new u joints painted ready to rock..
 
Keep the good info coming. I,m considering an aluminum one for my b body. I also appreciate everyones input on this thread.
 
1350 shafts are used in a lot of 1 ton trucks. What are some pros and cons of cutting down one of these bad boys. The local salvage yard treats the shop I work at pretty well.

I measured to make sure the shaft I was using is the right length. Using the 1" rule it should be 47 7/8. The shaft I was going to use is 46 5/8!

The manual says 47.81 (47 13/16)
 
Supershafts said:
You had a gm shaft in your car? ? ? no wonder why you had a problem... 3R series and t350 slips would usually cause a issue in a Mopar

A dent and a missing weight doesn't mean you need a re-tube unless it is in fact bent...

95% of the time a dent is not a bend... and it can be balanced...

Do you have a pic of the dent ?


If you had to make a new shaft then i would do 1310 x 7260, using the spl series joints you could double that hp.
Click to expand...

What vehicle uses the 1310? I found the 7290 conversion 7260/7290= napa#347
 
When you lose the factory shaft and build a new one you either use 1310, 1330 or 1350, detroit went under a while back, and even though AAM seems to be following in there footsteps with the way there making joints.

So when you get a new shaft if you have 7260 series slip and end yoke the driveline shop would/should build you a shaft with 1310 series weld yokes and use either the 5-353 or the spl 5-788.
That will keep you from needing a new slip and end yoke.


Anything at napa is china junk, find a local mom and pop parts store that isn't influenced by china
 
Supershafts said:
When you lose the factory shaft and build a new one you either use 1310, 1330 or 1350, detroit went under a while back, and even though AAM seems to be following in there footsteps with the way there making joints.

So when you get a new shaft if you have 7260 series slip and end yoke the driveline shop would/should build you a shaft with 1310 series weld yokes and use either the 5-353 or the spl 5-788.
That will keep you from needing a new slip and end yoke.


Anything at napa is china junk, find a local mom and pop parts store that isn't influenced by china
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. :cheers: This seems to be the best idea ($ to strength ratio)
 
I built my shaft for my car, no lightweight at 3800 and 550 before anything else... I got plenty more out there the same way.

I would go AL if i was you, you'll get more perf out of the AL, every car i have done has lost at the very least 7 hundreths.
 
Could I use a viper drive shaft/slip yoke. Its aluminum with 1350's just have it extended and buy a rear yoke?
 
1350 Series 727 auto & A833 manual and T-56 VIPER with 29/30 spline output

The slip yoke barrel is shorter by almost 2 inches though?

3827937466_d0d59f4943_o.jpg
 
The slip length is ok, that would be dealt with when building the shaft....

If the shop has the AL tube for it you can, the viper uses 3.5" x .120 wall spicer shaft and .125 w for the half shafts
 
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