Need a simple answer about a Horn

[19 Again..]

I have a 73 Duster with the original steering wheel, I want to change it to a NOS Tuff Wheel. Here's the "simple" question. Do you pry off the horn button cover, do you twist it off, or just how does it come off??
I feel kinda dumb asking but this is the absolute best forum to get the best answers for any problem you run into!

 

[BlackBrick]

There is usually 2 small screws that hold that button on. Haven't pulled one of those in 15 years, so memory si fuzzy.

Once you have the horn button off, you will need a steering wheel puller to remove the old wheel. The shaft that it sits on is knurled. Once you have all the wires for the horn sorted, just use a puller to extract the wheel.

I have used these kinds before:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRT-5891/?rtype=10
It is setup to use either 2 or 3 bolts, so you get what you need.

 

[Dusterdude72]

on my 72 dusters factory wheel the hole horn button was removable simply just by grabing it with your hand and pulling (didnt even take much force)

there is just a series of spring loaded clips in a circle that clip into place when you push the horn button down.

I hope thats what your refering to?

I wasnt sure if you meant the factory wheel or the tough wheel

 

[19 Again..]

Yes I was referring to the factory wheel.. my bad..should have been more explanatory (new word for the vocabulary) So does the Tuff wheel bolt on, where as the stock wheel is "nutted" on? I noticed in a few other threads there are those who say a spacer is necessary and those who say it isnt'. Any help there??

 

[Dusterdude72]

couldnt tell you as I have never had a tough wheel myself.

I know with most aftermarket steering wheels you need an adapter kit whitch consists of (normally) an aluminum spacer that on one side has a larger hole that slips over the steering shaft that you run your lock nut down on,sometimes there are like 3 small screws also on that same end that help hold it and then on the other side there is 3 larger bolt holes for the steering wheel itself to mount to.

and since the spacer mover the wheel out and creates a gap in most cases, a beauty coupler is supplied also.....this is what hides the gap between the column and the wheel.

there are plenty of folks here who have swapped tough wheels before so I am sure someone will chime in and give you a more exact answer, good luck

 

[blackbomber]

If you get the repro Tuff wheel, you can use the universal Grant adapter for Mopar. This is what people are referring to when they say you don't NEED the spacer. In this case, you will need to bend your turn signal stalk away from the wheel. Either the Grant Tuff wheel spacer or the OE Mopar one will work with the Grant wheel.

Some people prefer running without the spacer, because it puts the wheel farther from the driver. But then again, some people like the dinky 13" Tuff look alike that only costs $40.00. To each his or her own. The Tuff wheel is spaced because it has almost no dish compared to the standard or deluxe wheel.

 

[19 Again..]

I actually got this Tuff Wheel off of ebay (my new best parts house) it was pretty rugged.. So I refubished it myself. The satin finish wasn't in bad shape, but the foam was to say the least disentegrating. I went to McMarter Carrs website and found a Silicone tubing with a 3/8" ID, and a 1" OD. Bought two lengths of 36", cut ot fit and split it to go over the steel rim. Used silicone to bond it to the rim. (since its silicone it all bonds quite nicely.. Used black electrical tape to hold it together until it set. Then I actually had gone to Walmart (spent $6.99) and thought I could take one of their steering wheel covers and stitch it on.. That didn't work so I ripped the cover off of it (the cover from walmart) and used the inner cover (kinda foam I guess) the "Cheap leather/Pleather/Foam whatever was to thin. Then I bought a Wheelskin and covered it.. It turned out pretty good. but I think I'm going to re-do the stitching to a cross lace pattern instead of the single lace.. I have pictures it any ones interested, along with the McMaster Carr part number.. I think without the cost of the Tuff wheel I have about $75.00 into it..