Need advice big time on steering shaft removal.

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gearhead413

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I'm in the process of removing my v-8 k-member from my 72'demon parts car torsion bar mount rot got the better of it.And wil be placing it in my 71'duster.I am a tech sad thing is I haven't the slightest clue on how to separate the steering shaft from the gear box use to having to remove one little bolt then the shaft pops right off.Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated another thing to I was curious on was torsion bar removal I understand the tool for it works great,but also a little pricy for how often I use it is there ways I can remove the torsion bars without the tool or should I just quit being a cheapskate and break down and by one.Any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated as this is my first major bare bones shell with practically nothing there.
 
Get a 1/4" punch and punch out the roll pin in the sleeve coming off of the steering gear to the shaft in the engine compartment. Then the collar will come off of the knurled nipple of the steering box.
 
Push out the roll pin in the coupler and use a tie rod fork to pry back the coupler off the splines. On T bars - DO NOT LOOSEN THE TENSION ON THEM AT FIRST. Loosen the nuts off the LCA pins thru the K frame first. The tension on the t bars will keep the pins from spinning in the bushings. Then undo the nuts for the strut. OF course, undo the lower BJ from the spindle. Remove the T bar rear clip, and ONLY THEN loosen the t bar tensioners so they are completely slack. Then USE THE WHOLE LCA to push against and the t bar will pop out the back. No need for any special tools.
 
I will post a few pictures in a few minutes (15 maybe), I have to download and resize them...
 
Thanks guys.great input.For the torsion bar removal that probably is the best and simpliest way I've seen it right to the point.
 
Oh, and the nuts for the strut - the ones that hold the strut to the K frame with the big washers between the strut rod bushings, not the ones on the LCA. While the LCA is off the K frame count on replacing the LCA bushings. As well as the big donut strut rod bushings.
 
Just got my front end rebuild kit from pst today I was thinking know how front end work usally goes ya try to replace one thing pretty soon ya opend up a hole new can worms well up where I live any ways damn rust and bolts freezing inside bushings.
 
Punch out the roll pin shown in these pictures.

Also, you may need a helper to hold the steering wheel still while you pound out the roll pin as it will want to turn while you are pounding on it.

I believe that it takes a 1/4" punch to do this (it's been a while for me).

View attachment Steering Coupler A04 B.jpg

Here it is circled:

View attachment Steering Coupler A04 B2.jpg

Here's a closer view:

View attachment Steering Coupler A06 B.jpg

Here's the close up circled:

View attachment Steering Coupler A06 B2.jpg


Then pry the coupler off of the steering box.
 
gearhead413 said:
Just got my front end rebuild kit from pst today I was thinking know how front end work usally goes ya try to replace one thing pretty soon ya opend up a hole new can worms well up where I live any ways damn rust and bolts freezing inside bushings.
Click to expand...


If you just bite the bullet and do a complete rebuild, there aren't many more worms to open... (hopefully...)


The upper control arm bolts can be a real ***** to remove, you gotta be persistant and not let them beat you....
 
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