Need help. Holley 4150, Fuel leak.

[Cope]

Hello again folks.
My freshly rebuilt 650 DP is just pissing fuel put of the fuel rail.
More specifically out between the B nut and chrome tube.
I bought Mr Gasket part #1552 with new flares and B nuts and same problem.?
I did not reef hard just seated the flare.....

I installed a 3/8 (straight non NPT) inverted flare to -6 and now leaks even worse?

Now Im out 30+ bucks and still pissing gas.

What the heck am I doing wrong?


Old rail, B nuts and seats.

Uploading pick of part 1552 now.

Thanks again.

 

[69_340_GTS]

First, inverted flare fittings are not meant to have any teflon tape or pipe dope on them. Second, do you have new metal gaskets for the large fittings ("b nuts"?) where they screw into the float bowls? If not, they're gonna leak.

 

[Bulldozer]

do you have new metal gaskets for the large fittings ("b nuts"?) where they screw into the float bowls? If not, they're gonna leak.

yep , im not seeing any

Ive also heard them referred to a crush sleeves

 

[Cope]

Even this did not work.
3/8 straight inverted flare to -6

Heres the pick my pops sent me of the fitting that goes direct into all his Holleys. the -6 side is in his fingers.

He aslo noted the "crush washer"

My carb is a old 650DP,4150.
Anyone know what summit part that is?

Flare seat to carb is a new metal washer from the rebuild kit.
Thanks for the time and advice.

 

[bOb shingler]

it looks like the bowel is cracked from the 11 o'clock position to under the mounting bolt.

 

[moparlover]

good eyes bob

 

[GEO]

it looks like the bowel is cracked from the 11 o'clock position to under the mounting bolt.

Looks like there is definitely something going on there.

Cope can you pull the fitting off the carb and post close up pictures of the carb bowl where that crack looking thing is ?

 

[Cope]

Will do, but I doth think the bowls are the issue as that is not the source of the leak.
The fuel leak is between the flare seat and the chrome rail.
The new flare seats, metal washers and new rail leak from both bowls just the same as the old rail and flare seats...

One of the new flare seats out of the Mr. Gasket 1552 kit and metal washer.

Float bowl.

gonna try and get a better shot for ya but I truly dont see this as part of the problem?

 

[69_340_GTS]

it looks like the bowel is cracked from the 11 o'clock position to under the mounting bolt.

That isn't cracked, it's just a burr left from when the inlet port is spotfaced during machining. Most Holleys of this style look similar in that area.

 

[Cope]

Upon close inspection of the rear of the flare shows some flaring marks.
Spent yesterday carefully removing the 4 burs with sand paper and today Im gonna try some valve lapping compound a try to get this.China carp to seal...

Thanks again.

 

[VDART]

yes a fine file might assist, i had a similar issue years ago with a small burr /nick with a leaking connection point-- filed it smooth & no more leaks, Lawrence

 

[Cope]

Thanks.
The lapping compound shows two points on the rear of each flare that do not contact...

Dont know if Im better of hand lapping the flares seal or trying to explain/show the folks at Oriley that their new part was ****...

 

[Cope]

So Im fully fed up right now, can I just wrap.some.teflon tape around the chrome.tube?

or is.this a.verry bad idea..
and i hate typing on this tablet!

i think its beer time

;)

 

[Inertia]

I have 2 suggestions for you,,

the first is put some grease on the flare nut threads, and on the nut side of the flare, to reduce the friction on the threads while tightening,.. I know,, it shouldn't make a diff,, but it does,, it gets that extra squeeze on the flare to get it to seat,.

other suggestion if that fails,,

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gaskets-Copper-Flare-Rings-5-16-Improves-the-Seal/160243876224?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3Dbffd18ad5f4c491d9a820a0568c3e7cc%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D20131231084308%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D24%26sd%3D160243877297#ht_1098wt_1153"]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gaskets-Copper-Flare-Rings-5-16-Improves-the-Seal/160243876224?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3Dbffd18ad5f4c491d9a820a0568c3e7cc%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D20131231084308%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D24%26sd%3D160243877297#ht_1098wt_1153[/ame]

 

[Cope]

Ive been using new oil on the fittings and seats, threads.

The Mr. Gasket kit included a.new fuel rail and new seats for.the float bowls.
I have new metal gaskets from bowl to rail seat.

7 1/2 hours of hand lapping has the rear of the flares contacting. Now She pissing around B nut to seat and proly.from bowl to flare seat as I been reefen harder than I probably should have....

Right now I would like to take my.new MSD.box.chuck it in the back window, light this ***** on fire an push it off a.cliff.

In my lucky state an seeing.as theres no cliff in my drive way, I prolly have that box bounce off hit my nuts an burn down my house...

 

[69_340_GTS]

So Im fully fed up right now, can I just wrap.some.teflon tape around the chrome.tube?

or is.this a.verry bad idea..
and i hate typing on this tablet!

i think its beer time

;)

Won't do a thing. Because the seal is supposed to happen at the flare inside. The threads don't seal, they just hold the parts together. You only use pipe dope on tapered pipe threads.