FartDart94
Active Member
I am planning on pulling out the instrument panel to take to a guy that fixes everything thats wrong with it. Just need some advice. maybe some pictures would be sweet also. thanks!
Need help on procedure to taking out Instrument Panel.
- Thread starter FartDart94
- Start date
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really simple----
disconnect battery.
unscrew the speedo cable(look at how things are placed while under there)
take the screws holding the gauge cluster in place
take u shaped steering column bracket off column should move down(clearance)
place a towel on column (keeps scratches of stuff)
tilt cluster forward--
take a picture of how it is hooked up
if you cannot remove at this point-- reach in the dash area & trace the harness-- it is clipped to the dash-- these will bend allowing the harness to move giving more free play.
there you have it.
Lawrence
disconnect battery.
unscrew the speedo cable(look at how things are placed while under there)
take the screws holding the gauge cluster in place
take u shaped steering column bracket off column should move down(clearance)
place a towel on column (keeps scratches of stuff)
tilt cluster forward--
take a picture of how it is hooked up
if you cannot remove at this point-- reach in the dash area & trace the harness-- it is clipped to the dash-- these will bend allowing the harness to move giving more free play.
there you have it.
Lawrence
First thing; disconnect battery.
Second thing; disconnect battery.
Did I mention you had better disconnect the battery before messing around under the dash?
First: You will need to lower the steering wheel by removing the nuts holding it to the underside of the dash, and three bolts where it passes through the floor. You will most likely have to disconnect the signal switch harness from the under dash harness.
Second: Remove speedometer cable from back of speedometer by reaching up behind the cluster and unscrewing its attaching collar. With steering column lowered, accessing spedo cable will be much easer.
Third: Remove the screws securing instrument pod to dash, and gently pull it from the dash. You will see several sub harnesses attached to the pod, gently pull them free from the circuit board, and remove the nuts securing the red and black wires to the amp gage. Both red & black amp gage wires are connected directly to the battery being main feed to fuse block, and if grounded with the battery connected, will start a fire. So be sure to first disconnect the battery.
The gage cluster should now be free to remove from the car.
Side note:
None of the gages or their lights will work until the cluster is grounded by its securing screws to the dash frame, or with a jumper to ground.
While you have good access to the dash wiring inspect the taped up welded splices in the heavy red and black wires that were attached to the amp gage. If tape is in poor condition, retape the splice with the good stuff; #33-3M electrical tape. Keep the fire gods at bay, cheap electrical tape won’t do, it will not stay wrapped, and won’t stand the temperature extremes car interiors are exposed to so don’t use it.
Second thing; disconnect battery.
Did I mention you had better disconnect the battery before messing around under the dash?
First: You will need to lower the steering wheel by removing the nuts holding it to the underside of the dash, and three bolts where it passes through the floor. You will most likely have to disconnect the signal switch harness from the under dash harness.
Second: Remove speedometer cable from back of speedometer by reaching up behind the cluster and unscrewing its attaching collar. With steering column lowered, accessing spedo cable will be much easer.
Third: Remove the screws securing instrument pod to dash, and gently pull it from the dash. You will see several sub harnesses attached to the pod, gently pull them free from the circuit board, and remove the nuts securing the red and black wires to the amp gage. Both red & black amp gage wires are connected directly to the battery being main feed to fuse block, and if grounded with the battery connected, will start a fire. So be sure to first disconnect the battery.
The gage cluster should now be free to remove from the car.
Side note:
None of the gages or their lights will work until the cluster is grounded by its securing screws to the dash frame, or with a jumper to ground.
While you have good access to the dash wiring inspect the taped up welded splices in the heavy red and black wires that were attached to the amp gage. If tape is in poor condition, retape the splice with the good stuff; #33-3M electrical tape. Keep the fire gods at bay, cheap electrical tape won’t do, it will not stay wrapped, and won’t stand the temperature extremes car interiors are exposed to so don’t use it.
FartDart94
Active Member
Thanks guys! i got my work cut out for me!
Divenut
Well-Known Member
In addition to the previous posts by wjajr & Fart Dart 94, maybe these pics will help you out. Disregard the mess of wires as the PO did some "creative" stuff. Even with my lack of experience, it did not take long at all. A cold brew helps too! 
2 screws closet to you/wheel - Ones with the yellow eyelet connectors
3rd one farther down toward the firewall.
I had to loosen the bolts that secure to column to the floor to get enough access to wiggle the cluster out.
Loosen the phillips head screws that hold the closter to the dash and ease it out enough to disconnect the spreedo and connectors to lights etc.
Oh, and Disconnect the Battery..LOL
Good luck,
Pat
2 screws closet to you/wheel - Ones with the yellow eyelet connectors
3rd one farther down toward the firewall.
I had to loosen the bolts that secure to column to the floor to get enough access to wiggle the cluster out.
Loosen the phillips head screws that hold the closter to the dash and ease it out enough to disconnect the spreedo and connectors to lights etc.
Oh, and Disconnect the Battery..LOL
Good luck,
Pat
cudajim
cudajim
The pictures above with the crimp-on connectors make me cringe. They're temporary at best.
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