Need opinions on anti-rust paint (POR15, Rust Bullet, etc)

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LXguy

LXguy

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Hey All

I've got most of the drivetrain pulled out of my car and figured this would be a good time to hit the underside of the car with some anti-rust stuff.

The car is in really good shape with just a light layer of slightly flakey rust on the floorpan, etc. It doesn't need to be repaired anywhere.

What I've done in the past (on newer cars) was just to hit the underside with some Rustoleum hammered finish paint. Both to protect from rust, but also to cut down on falling rusty flakes when I'm working on it. I greatly prefer silver to black because it helps make for a brighter work area under the car.

I don't really know how well the Rustoleum protects against rust, but my cars are sunny day drivers anyway. the only time it would conceivably get rained on would be a surprise shower, or something like that on the way too/from the track on a trailer.

Anyways, since this is an older car, and I dont want it to get bad, I was thinking about doing the POR-15 or something like it.

Long story short, does anyone on here recommend it, or have any warnings about it?

thanks!

Steve
 
I did the engine bay in my Firebird with POR-15 and was happy with the results...although I wished I had used flat and not gloss. Can't really comment on it's rust sealing capabilities. Just what they state on their web site. It is very hard for sure once it hardens.
 
Gotta remove the "slightly flakey rust" before any treatment. I wouldn't use POR-15 again if someone paid me too....
 
Hi LXguy. Por 15 is a fantastic product. I am restoring a 69 Swinger and started using it on the floor. A lot of my buddies saw it and started using it now as well. Put it on straight over rust as long as all loose rust is removed. If going over bare metal, the metal MUST be either wire wheeled, sanded blasted or treated with a chemical to etch it. If bare metal is not etched in some way the Por 15 will not adhere to it very well at al. Once the Por 15 is cured it will not peel. You can hit it with a hammer and it won't flake off. It is very tough. Great for around windows or on places where scratcing may take place such as putting on trim. The product cures by moisture so the wetter the product gets the harder it gets. The product directions say to topcoat it anywhere UV sunlight gets at it so no good in the sun on its own, as it has to be topcoated. Also best way to top coat is just before product is dry, top coat with a good etch primer so it takes a good hold on thr Por 15. Don't try to sand it after dry and apply primer or you will curse trying to sand this stuff. It is too damn hard. I have heard none of my buddies say anything negative against the product.
 
I buy Os-Pho (phosphoric acid) in gallon size from the local Ace Hardware store. It has worked well for me.
 
I've used both POR-15, to coat a gas tank and the Eastwood Rust Inhibitor paint (can't remember the name - ahh, yes, it's called Rust Encapsulator) on a chassis. The POR-15 has a much tougher finish after it dries. The Eastwood stuff goes on smooth but doesn't leave a hard finish. It's easily scratched.
 
RedScampi said:
I've used both POR-15, to coat a gas tank and the Eastwood Rust Inhibitor paint (can't remember the name) on a chassis. The POR-15 has a much tougher finish after it dries. The Eastwood stuff goes on smooth but doesn't leave a hard finish. It's easily scratched.
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Roger that, thanks. I've used POR15 but not the eastwood product.
 
We've used POR-15 on countless projects with no problems, I've got it on my frame connectors, scuffed it up good and painted over it. My uncle builds full chassis and coats them with the stuff, it dries HARD and lasts. side note don't get any on your skin and wear crappy clothes when using it, if you're under the car and have a garage floor you care about cover the floor in case of drippage.
 
cecil4speed said:
Guys I don't know if any of you have applied Por 15 with a brush, but when you do it levels out and looks like it was sprayed on.
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I've done my whole floor w/ a brush, when it dries you can't tell its brushed on, leaves a good finish.
 
wigsplitter74 said:
We've used POR-15 on countless projects with no problems, I've got it on my frame connectors, scuffed it up good and painted over it. My uncle builds full chassis and coats them with the stuff, it dries HARD and lasts. side note don't get any on your skin and wear crappy clothes when using it, if you're under the car and have a garage floor you care about cover the floor in case of drippage.
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I still have POR-15 on my arm from 2 weeks ago...I don't think it's ever coming off...:-k
 
It sure does stick to your skin. You may have to scrape it off with an exacto knife. Another hint. If you get this stuff on the lid or rim of the can and close it, you will have to expect to cut the top of the can off. Some have told me to use plastic wrap on top of can before closing but I've had no luck with this. I usually dip what I want out of the can with a very small container, or maybe a spoon, put it in another container and use it that way. Don't keep the can open or use out of the can because the air really takes the shelf life away from the product. Take what you want,close the cover tight and turn the can upside down. If you have any left over,put it in a container taht can be closed very tight and tape the top shut with electrical tape. The shelf life is very short after opened. Also take small amounts out because the product covers more than what you think it will. Covers a very large area with only a small amount. And yes be sure to buy their solvent, for cleanup right away when you get it on you.Don't wait until your finished using it. Once dried you will be wearing it for some time. Don't shake the product, stir it.
 
blue missile said:
RJ what's up with POR-15?
Andrew
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I have used it on a couple different projects when it first came out.....floor pans/underside of my demon(brushed on), sprayed through a primer gun (followed instructions) on a chassis and firewall for a Nova project. Stuff came off in sheets on the Nova....and yes instructions were followed and they were called and said it shouldn't be a problem. It wasn't. On my Demon it stuck to the surface rust good, but didn't adhere elsewhere very well. It was brushed on over the factory painted floor pan. I have since blasted the entire car and used Glasurit epoxy primer instead. The POR15 stuff is rock-hard when it sticks though and IMHO looks like it was brushed on so it shudnt be used on a visible surface.
 
rjsjea said:
I have used it on a couple different projects when it first came out.....floor pans/underside of my demon(brushed on), sprayed through a primer gun (followed instructions) on a chassis and firewall for a Nova project. Stuff came off in sheets on the Nova....and yes instructions were followed and they were called and said it shouldn't be a problem. It wasn't. On my Demon it stuck to the surface rust good, but didn't adhere elsewhere very well. It was brushed on over the factory painted floor pan. I have since blasted the entire car and used Glasurit epoxy primer instead. The POR15 stuff is rock-hard when it sticks though and IMHO looks like it was brushed on so it shudnt be used on a visible surface.
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Not to offend you or anyone else, but you say you used it when it first came out, maybe it's been changed a little since then, its possible. I understand it can put a "bad taste" in your mouth and turn you away. I'm sure you've found another product you like and will stick with and that's good. Again no offense meant by this.
 
wigsplitter74 said:
Not to offend you or anyone else, but you say you used it when it first came out, maybe it's been changed a little since then, its possible. I understand it can put a "bad taste" in your mouth and turn you away. I'm sure you've found another product you like and will stick with and that's good. Again no offense meant by this.
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No offense taken, that's why I said I used it when it first came out.
 
The new POR-15 has UV inhibitors, so it doesn't turn milky from sun exposure. I really like the stuff. One trick that works is to put 3 layers of wax paper over the top before you pound the lid back on. When you open it again, the bottom layer will form a skin which can easily be cut off with a razor blade. Wear gloves, eye protection, and old clothes!
 
Well I know this is a little bit of an old thread but I have had great success in elongating the shelf life of my POR-15. Place one sheet of plastic wrap over the can and push it down to the suface of the POR-15. With the wrap still overhanging the sides of the can replace the cap and pound it secure. Now store it behind the milk in the fridge. Let it get to room temp before applying. Havent had to toss a drop!
 
Por is good but expensive. I tried it once. I treated everything with Ospho, which is also an etching agent. I than bought rust inhibator paint-lots of different kind out there and have good results. I live in Florida-humid all the time. My paint is holding up well.

Dave
 
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