New 1964 Dodge Dart GT Owner

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I am back to shopping for a few things for my Dart GT. This past Summer, I repaired the speedometer, added a new speed cable, installed 14 inch 71 Scamp steel rims which were sandblasted and painted, dog dish style. I installed 4 bf Goodrich radial TA's. And, the wife and I installed a new set of upholstery from Legendary Auto Interiors. Also a new trunk board and mat, shocks, alternator, starter and voltage regulator I usually buy my parts over the winter and install them in the Spring. I am considering new sun visors, tail lights, and maybe new headlight bezels. I also need to have my windshield professionally buffed to remove some wiper scrapes. I may do a rear bumper re-chrome before the headlight bezels because it seems like a more bang for the buck option.
 
I have a request if you will don't trash any of the parts you replace I would buy most things even in rough condition because what you replace is probably still better than what I have on my car.
 
The power box is longer, and requires a shorter steering column. The '64 column won't collapse, so you need one out of a power car. The coupler attaches differently in '64 than the later style, but I don't know if that is just the coupler that is different, or if the earlier boxes are different too. I haven't taken mine apart yet, so I can't tell you. I have the complete system, including the right column, but haven't installed it yet. It was for when my wife was driving the car, and she didn't like parking it with her 104 lb. frame, but she was still able to do it. I weigh 140 lbs. at 6', so I'm a scrawny dude, but can still drive my manual darts fine. I don't like the slow steering ratio, though. One thing to note--factory spec. alignment makes for incredibly easy steering effort. I was moving a customer's Roadrunner into the shop, which was manual steering, stock height, and stock alignment. It felt like power steering at a complete stop. My cars have positive caster, which doesn't make a difference unless the tires are rolling, but lower ride height, negative camber, and most importantly, non-stock tire size. These all contribute to a non-centered scrub radius. This puts the axis of steering rotation off center of the contact patch, so the tire is not just rotating, but being dragged forward and back a little when turning.
 
I think Ronny B's suggestion may have changed my mind on converting to power steering, it seems to steer much better after the chassis lube. I think maybe a disc brake conversion may be a good safety option in the future. I love my slant six but maybe there may be a future crate stroked V8 for this solid body car. I will just work on the cosmetics for now, and maybe some brake work, and then wham stroker v8 popping wheelies, lol. The only fast car I ever owned was a 1987 mustang lx with a 5 liter. Man that car would move with only 225 hp.
 
I am supposed to have a set of tail lights this week directly from the maker. I am still looking for reproduction crimson red sun visors. Best so far on the sun visors is $85.00 plus shipping.
 
cchrishefish said:
I am supposed to have a set of tail lights this week directly from the maker. I am still looking for reproduction crimson red sun visors. Best so far on the sun visors is $85.00 plus shipping.
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Who are you getting the tailights from? and how much $$$$?
 
I also have 2 brand new re-chromed bumpers. I'm not using the front, and I plan on painting the rear. If your rear is not bent, I would take it as a trade in towards the rechrome. PM me if interested.
 
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