new engine or stroker kit?

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69 Valiant Kid

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so if you havnt read my restoration thread yet...i have a problem on my hands. i was replacing the rear main seal because the motor has been sitting for 3 years and while removing the crank found several connecting rod bearings to be junk. so, being that it took out my crankshaft it looks like everything in the lower end is screwed besides the pistons. do i sell my 340 parts on here that are brand new? or get a stroker crank and connecting rods and bearings?...this sucks guys.....totally bumbed...what else would i have to change if i got a stroker kit?...or could i just get away with that?....ask me for details on what heads, cam and etc i have if you dont know...

resto#1 411.JPG


resto#1 408.JPG
 
I cannot really tell by the pictures but it looks like the top coat is off the bearing and down to the copper

Crank doesn't look grooved, have you checked it with a micrometer

could it be turned or polished ?

how many miles are on the bearings?

unless there is a serious groove in the crank it probably is serviceable

if I were to start over again I think I would just buy a Blueprint engines stroker motor

30 month 50,000 mile warranty on a 408 stroker for $3,600 + shipping
 
its to the copper. and i was told it only had 3000 miles on the motor because the kid wanted big block power, but its been sitting for 3 years...the sitting wouldnt affect anything tho...one of the bearings sits soooo sloppy in 1 of the connecting rods...usually when you get that the rods are out of round i think....and i was thinking blueprint engine too...but it sucks cus i just bought 750 dollar tti 1 and 5/8 " step headers....lamesauce......this sucks
 
What sucks? You spent your cash on headers? You can still use em,they will fit a stroker the same as a regular small block.

Or you could sell em to me....lol,just kidding. Dont have that kinda cash on hand for car pars right now. House reno's are soaking it all up!
 
a new stroker engine usually come with mag heads...or aluminum heads.....either or, i would need different tti headers...
 
Dont magnums have the same exhaust manifold bolt pattern as an la?

And unless you have W2 aluminum heads,bolt pattern is...you guessed it. The same.

Should bolt right up.

Anyone else?
 
i looked on tti's site...and you're right el capitan...i think i read that right anyway...still have no ideal as to what i should do tho...
 
im leaning towards the scat 416 stroker kit...forged flat tops...12-1 compression...1289$....any of you solid engine guys know what id have to change if i went with that crank and rods....i should be ok with that shouldnt i?....
 
I don't understand the question...
 
You'd probably want better heads too. And IMO those headers will fit, but will be restrictive on a 408-cube engine. Personally I don't like crate motors very much, it seems half the time anyone talks about their experience in buying a crate motor they were disappointed by either power or build quality. I'd rather build my own engine anyway, but that's just me.
 
sorry, i guess i should say, what else may i have to change if i go to the 4 inch crank, besdies new connecting rods and pistons...
 
i think crate is outa the question anyway, a 416 would be sweet....i do have the bigger valves on my 340 cast iron heads....double springs etc...
 
My first real suggestion to you is SLOW DOWN!!! Bouncing 100 different direction will get you nowhere fast.

You can use the stroker kit in your block with a fresh bore and hone. That scat kit is fine, just don't buy it balanced from scat. They don't even match the piston weights, rod big/small ends. Pay your local machine shop for a proper balance.

Almost every piece you currently have, balancer, flexplate, convertor, will work on an internally balanced stroker kit.

You can do another 340 on the cheap. If it was running good, quick hone, cut the crank, resize rods, fresh bearings/rings/gaskets and off you go.

Headers you have are fine for a reasonable build.
 
crackedback said:
My first real suggestion to you is SLOW DOWN!!! Bouncing 100 different direction will get you nowhere fast.
Click to expand...

Agree, you're confusing simple minded joe's like me. but this post is simple:

69 Valiant Kid said:
sorry, i guess i should say, what else may i have to change if i go to the 4 inch crank, besdies new connecting rods and pistons...
Click to expand...
You don't need new rods. Stock rods are fine (and not Chinese).

You'll need to clearance the block, you don't really 'need' anything else. You can rebuild your engine (after bore/hone optional sonic test) with the stroker kit but of course you'll need to work or replace the heads heads/intake/carb/cam to get the optimum performance out of the new stroke.

Did I spell 'optimum' right?
 
i realize you guys arnt a machine shop....but any idea on how much money to have a quick hone, cut the crank, resize rods, fresh bearings/rings/gaskets ?
 
done deal...its going in 2morro for new rings and gaskets, new bearings and grind the crank down + install of crank and time the motor
 
Like Wildcat said its hard to tell by the pics but the crank don't look that bad I've polished up worse then that with crocus (sp) cloth.

As long as your bearing crush and clearances are good you should have no problems, the bearing shells need to be pressed into the journals if it just drop in and falls right out then you might need to check to see if the journals are out of round or oversized or not.
 
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