New Engine won't turn over!! Help

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wyoduster

wyoduster

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OK I rebuilt the 340 "BY THE BOOK":read2: its ready to start for the very first time....but It turns over so hard kills battery in one turn... Should I or can I do something to help? I've never done this before so I'm a total rookie.Is there something I'm forgeting or is there something I should do first.
Need help here please....
NEW ISSUE!!!! cylinders are full of gas!!!I pull all plugs and there it is. thats why she won't turn ...full cylinders.. so now what do I do?? whats up with that? Yes I have an electric gas pump. Eldebrock carb.

my cell 307-217-0242
 
can you turn the motor over by hand or is it hard by hand too. If you can turn it over by hand check all the battery connections if all that turns out ok check the starter even if its new make sure it is working correctly and not dragging but first check to see if you can turn the motor over with a ratchet and socket if you have trouble there not point checking the electrical sounds like there would then be a problem in the motor good luck Justin
 
Does it turn over better if you unhook the coil? You could have it advanced too far and it's firing and trying to turn the engine the wrong way. You can also pull the plugs and see if it's easy to turn by hand. With the plugs in you're fighting the compression, and it always seems kind of hard by hand.
 
yes it will turn over .Haven't checked the coil yet. Should I maybe pull a couple plugs and turn it over to get oil pumping????? What do you think???
 
Cylinders full of gas? Sounds like your carb floats are not closing properly, electric pump just dumping fuel right through. I'd be inclined to crank it over with all plugs out to blow out the gas then put a small amount of oil in each hole to get oil back on the cylinders as the gas has probably washed them down dry. You may want to change the oil to before starting, if your talkin alot of gas it probably ran right past the rings into the bottom end. Better checkout that fuel system before trying to start again. Is the carb new?
 
popeye, think you need to buy the mp preoiler shaft .remove the distributor and install it on drill, stick it in the distributor groove and put drill in reverse, do this til you feel the pressure build, are all your engine clearances within tolerance? maybe ya got the distributor 180 degrees out?
 
agree on your comments macadoo, a regulator would be nice too
 
OK... uuuhh Just drained oil and blew out cylinders .Oil pan had $6.00 worth of gas (lol). Any way I'll get new oil in it and give it another shot. Yes new Carb... Thinking the floats stuck huh? I'll go pull it apart... I'm really bummed....
 
I just fired my newly built 273 last night after finding the distributer 180* out of sync. I could have sworn I had it correct but it wasn't. Double check it.
 
Just a word of caution here. Disable your ignition when you crank it over with the plugs out. You might start a fire otherwise...

Before I'd check the floats, as previously posted, maybe you have too much pressure? Check it with a gauge and make sure it's *about* 5-6 PSI. More and you might be pushing the needles off of the seats and your just going to fill the engine with fuel again.
 
dont take preoiling engine before starting it up lightly, this is when most damage occurs, call jegs and get the m.p. preoiler rod next day delivery too
 
well ,im a big block guy. sorry and why is that small lock distributer in the wrong place? haha take care
 
I'm almost ready to start my freshly rebuilt 340, did the preoil yesterday just to try it out. I was really surprised how much resistance builds up against the drill once the oil pressure rises, so much so the drill stalled.
Anyway it did the trick, could hear the oil bubbling through the system, will do again just before I'm ready to try a start.
Any idea how much the distributor drive gear rotates on installation?
Want to make sure I get it set up right at TBDC on #1.
 
Airfix said:
I'm almost ready to start my freshly rebuilt 340, did the preoil yesterday just to try it out. I was really surprised how much resistance builds up against the drill once the oil pressure rises, so much so the drill stalled.
Anyway it did the trick, could hear the oil bubbling through the system, will do again just before I'm ready to try a start.
Any idea how much the distributor drive gear rotates on installation?
Want to make sure I get it set up right at TBDC on #1.
Click to expand...

Before you tighten it the distro down you should eye up #1 on the cap. You should have pretty good range to do so unless something is screwed up.
 
Verify cylinders are not full of gas before starting s a full cylinder will not compress (Called hydro lock) and can bend rods on compression stroke.
 
Mopardude said:
Out of curiousity what brand of timing set did you get? Is it comp cams? If it is and you installed it by the book you may have your cam 180 out.
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i just installed one and am curious to what this means. i believe cloyes makes the timing chains for comp.
 
Both dots on the cam and crank gear need to be @ 12 'Oclock for the #1 cyl to be on the compression stroke @ TDC. The cam isn't installed 180 out but if you think you're at TDC on the compression stroke for #1 with the cam gear dot at 6 'Oclock and the crank gear dot at 12 'Oclock and install your distributor accordingly, your distributor will be 180 off.

I hope I was clear on this.
 
redfastback said:
i just installed one and am curious to what this means. i believe cloyes makes the timing chains for comp.
Click to expand...

He mentioned he followed the book so I figure he is a rookie like I was when I did my engine. I have 3 different manuals for assembly mopar engines and they all say align the dots on the timming set so they are as close as possible. Basically 6 o'clock on the cam and 12 on the crank. When I installed my comp set I noticed the whole drive train didn't seem to move like it should and after watching it I realized it was a full 180 out. I didn't know what the heck was wrong and there was no instructions that came with the timing set of course. So I called up and ask comp what the heck was going on and they told me that all there sets both marks go to the 12 o'clock position. If I didn't have adjustable rockers I might not have noticed this issue till I had everything packaged up and in the car.

Also i am not saying this is is problem but if everything else checks out just trying to give alternative ideas to check out. I have been there done that with chasing down a problem you have no clue where to find.
 
sooooo.................i just put my timing chain on where the dots are at 6 and 12 (cam and crank, respectively). do i need to pull it apart again and reset it??? i have never heard of this before.
 
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