new headers

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74Dusterkid

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well tonight i just bought a set of hooker competition headers for my 360 from summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-5901HKR/ the motor is not in the car yet so it shouldnt be too hard to get them in. is there anything that i should watch out for or be worried about with them. forgot to say they are going into my 73 dart. thanks cj
 
watch the steering shaft clearance.also they hang down pretty far on on the drivers side(be careful of speed bumps etc.)you will need 90 degree spark plug boots on #5 and 7.
 
thank you for telling me that about the spark plugs i already have the 90* for the oil filter havent been told that but now i will get on that. ive been reading about the speed bumps and stuff. its gonna suck cause the roads here in pa absolutely suck.
 
change your plugs while the engine is out.When i had those headers the #7 was a pain to get out you could only do 1/4 of a turn at a time. I used the stock plugs but i did hear other used smaller size plugs that fit well and helped with clearance.
 
I put the hookers on my 360 in my 69 Dart... had an issue with one of the tubes hitting the steering box, or more specific, the edge of the steering box (where it bolts to the K-member) .. a little grinding of a corner where the bolts go through fixed that... also I have to agree about how low they hang.. I too am in PA and I have already but some nice flat spots in the bottom of my drivers side header.. take bumps and potholes SLOW.... lol... Oh and about that steering box issue, I forgot to mention I run power steering.. dont know if that makes a differance.. I believe the mounting point of the steering box is the same whether power or manual (though I could be wrong) ... Oh and one last thing, I am sure your aware of this but your steering linkage goes through the driver side header....
 
the car is a power steering car. right now the motor is not in the car so we will be able to get them in with little to no problem then we have to get the motor in. (first i have to pay for it lol) then we will have to see where it goes from there.
 
had an issue with one of the tubes hitting the steering box, or more specific, the edge of the steering box (where it bolts to the K-member) .. a little grinding of a corner where the bolts go through fixed that...


had the same problem
 
Glad Im not the only one that had that problem... the other issue I had was the instructions said 'the steering box bolts may have to be loosened for fit' ... yeah ...ok.. they had to come out all together, then it became a definite two person job as we wrestled to hold the steering box and work the header in... LOL .. only to find that clearance issue with where the steering box meets the k-member LOL ... all in all it could've been worse...
 
paid for normal ground shipping and got it in one day they came already. go summit

header box.jpg
 
Hey guys watch those train tracks too LOL.
I ordered mine from jegs on wednesday and i'm still waiting butch of bone heads didn't they know i wanted to do them over the weekend??? b the way did they come with the new ball socket?
 
mine came with all the hardware and gaskets so im guessing yea. im drawling a blank on what that is sorry.
 
mine came with all the hardware and gaskets so im guessing yea. im drawling a blank on what that is sorry.
all headers are changing over to a ball socket instead of the traditional 3 bolt flange so there is no gasket to blow out
 
then nope they are the 3 bolt flange style. the only kind that i could find were hedman that had the ball and socket.
 
2 things:
1. I have 1" torsion bars, and the pass side header would rattle against it at idle, but I have alot of cam, too.
2. That paint will last about 5 minutes, and then they will start to rust, it is inevitable. When I did my rebuild 1.5 years ago, I had the headers sand blasted, I came hoem and cleaned them up with some Klean-Strip Prep-All , and painted them with High Heat Duplicolor Silver with Ceramic. I then made a tinfoil box around the oven, and baked them for 1.5 hours, just like the can says. They are still silver, 1.5 years and 5500 miles later. Highly recommended!

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2 things:
1. I have 1" torsion bars, and the pass side header would rattle against it at idle, but I have alot of cam, too.
2. That paint will last about 5 minutes, and then they will start to rust, it is inevitable. When I did my rebuild 1.5 years ago, I had the headers sand blasted, I came hoem and cleaned them up with some Klean-Strip Prep-All , and painted them with High Heat Duplicolor Silver with Ceramic. I then made a tinfoil box around the oven, and baked them for 1.5 hours, just like the can says. They are still silver, 1.5 years and 5500 miles later. Highly recommended!

just wondering if you are married?? if so, what did she say about the header bake???:toothy10:
 
just wondering if you are married?? if so, what did she say about the header bake???:toothy10:
She still does not know. She was away, and I rigged up plastic and a fan to pull out the fumes. :-\"
 
Haven't done Hedman, but the Dynomax we used on my son's Dart Sport had to be hung into the engine bay loosely, then fitted to the manifold studs and dropped into place as the engine was being lowered. We also had to modify the steering shaft flexible coupler because of a conflict with one tube.

Good luck
 
well i just stripped the paint off of them and are going to have a family friend powder coat with high heat exhaust paint or have him ceramic coat them dont know wich one im gonna go with. im kinda leaning towards the ceramic. gonna get pics soon
 
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