New Hydraulic Roller Lifters

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Demon 408

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Hey, anyone seen these yet? Would be great if they live up to what's on Hughes web site. See below for info:

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New Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Lifters
7/22/2010

These will "Drop-In" the small block or big block Chrysler without any grinding!
Now Available! Only $345.00 a set.


SB OR BB HYD ROLLER LIFTER SET
MADE IN USA WITH A NEW IMPROVED MODERN DESIGN This is for a set of 16 lifters.
Made in U.S.A. by true craftsmen, these lifters will fit both small block (LA) and big block (Both low deck and raised deck) engines.
The oil hole has been lowered so that the small blocks with the chamfered lifter bores no longer have to sleeve the lifter bores.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/index.php

HUG5321Compare.jpg
 
I seen these in the magazine they sent me, and I was pretty damned interested myself...That's a pretty good price!
 
So, do these take care of the oil hole coming up out of the lifter bore? Would seem so.
 
About time someone came up with a solution to the lifter problems on the small blocks. Looks like it would work well.
 
If its that easy of a fix how come Comp, Crane, etc did not come up with it years ago?

I have to wounder how well they do work and hold up in real day to day uses.
 
Maybe but then a stable running valve train might had been another reason Comps thought machining the block is necessary. And bronze bushing the bores.

Note how the lift is more limited on the Hughes style. There is less support the higher the lift is.


My shop, Best Machines, was saying they brass bush the bores all the time for roller cams, when I drop my block off for one lifter bore to be done. Funny nobody knows about this trick but Hughes. All those other people getting bronze bushings and machine work could had just used Hughes lifters--that seems not right to me, IMO!
 
these lifters just became available from hughes...
 
Instead of bushing the bores on my block I went with a small base circle custom ground cam from Brian at IMM (user ou812 here). I used Crane "retrofit" hydraulic roller lifters. I originally had a Crane retrofit roller cam but when I ran my oil pump during engine mock up oil squirted up about 6 feet on three of the lifters bores when the lifter was at max lift. The small base circle cam made the lifters ride lower and solved the problem. No block modifications needed.

I read a thread over on moparts, guy had the same Crane parts, same problem I had, and there are others too, so it happens on some blocks. Other blocks are fine. Just depends on how the block was cast and machined the day it was made.
 
I'm thinking about getting some. It wold be worth the coin to not worry about flattening a cam.

That is why I went roller. Did not want to deal with wiping lobes. Sure rollers are more expensive but how much does it cost when you wipe a lobe? Money well spent in my opinion and no break in. Start it up and drive it.

Also remember that the hydraulic roller lifters are taller which means the push rod geometry is a little different. On my Eddy heads I had to clearance the push rod holes quite a bit to clear my 5/16" push rods. And when the lifters pump up the geometry changes a little bit too. So you have to pay extra attention to push rod hole clearance through the heads when using a hydraulic roller lifter.
 
That is why I went roller. Did not want to deal with wiping lobes. Sure rollers are more expensive but how much does it cost when you wipe a lobe? Money well spent in my opinion and no break in. Start it up and drive it.

Also remember that the hydraulic roller lifters are taller which means the push rod geometry is a little different. On my Eddy heads I had to clearance the push rod holes quite a bit to clear my 5/16" push rods. And when the lifters pump up the geometry changes a little bit too. So you have to pay extra attention to push rod hole clearance through the heads when using a hydraulic roller lifter.

I just wiped a cam, so I have to tear it down and clean everything. I figure if I replaced with a FT cam, I'll be out at least $300, and that's if the crank and rod bearings didn't get messed up from the metal. If an extra $350-400 saves me from going through this again, it'll be worth it.
My heads had the pushrod holes clearanced already, so I should be good there.
 
Spoke to Dave Hughes on the phone this a.m. (8-17-10) and I just ordered a set of the Hughes Hyd. Roller Lifters at $345 and will let you know how it goes; had been waiting for the Scorpion product because of the good reviews but got tired of waiting as the backorder keeps getting further and further out. Price is really immaterial, quality is what I am after; no sense in saving a hundred or so to ruin the thousands in the rest of components and machine work...so...
if anyone has experience, good or bad, with the Hughes Hyd. Roller Lifter, let me know before I fire my new Stroker up! Tony or "64Physhy" (I am in Santee,CA) give me a holler if you have any feedback.

Thank you,
Gary
 
It figures after I find a 360 roller block, get all the machine work done, buy new pistons, rings, bearings, rods, and everything else to run a roller 360 they come out with these........where were they 8 months ago. I may try to use them on the back-up flat tappet 318 I have.
 
Hey 63Dartman, I'm currently using a roller LA Block with stock rollers and dogbone retainer. Not a bad set up. My 408 has plenty of power for a mostly street driven car.
 
I'm thinking about getting some. It wold be worth the coin to not worry about flattening a cam.


everybody has had it happen at least once, if not they haven't worked on many motors or they got lucky and the plan/parts n pieces/execution worked right.

breaking in a cam is cake, when you 'know'.

you could get hit by a car, attacked by the neighbors dog, hit by lightening, catch TB, staff, heart attacked, arrested, trip and fall, get mugged by homeless illegals, etc....Just for leaving the house.

don't let it scare you from doing so.
Have someone experienced there next time to check/help/guide/reassure you.

jma
 

everybody has had it happen at least once, if not they haven't worked on many motors or they got lucky and the plan/parts n pieces/execution worked right.

breaking in a cam is cake, when you 'know'.

you could get hit by a car, attacked by the neighbors dog, hit by lightening, catch TB, staff, heart attacked, arrested, trip and fall, get mugged by homeless illegals, etc....Just for leaving the house.

don't let it scare you from doing so.
Have someone experienced there next time to check/help/guide/reassure you.

jma

Yeah, but this is the first motor I've built completely from the ground up. I've had a few of those things you mentioned happen to me, and wiped out my first cam, despite carefully following all directions. Then find out the springs may be too stout for a break-in, so I'll just go to the rollers. Just bought a Wave Runner, so have to wait a little bit for the cam and stuff, plus haven't tore the engine all the way down to see what else is AFU. Too many expensive hobbies going on here.
 
Yeah, but this is the first motor I've built completely from the ground up. I've had a few of those things you mentioned happen to me, and wiped out my first cam, despite carefully following all directions. Then find out the springs may be too stout for a break-in, so I'll just go to the rollers. Just bought a Wave Runner, so have to wait a little bit for the cam and stuff, plus haven't tore the engine all the way down to see what else is AFU. Too many expensive hobbies going on here.


Dave,

If you go Roller will you need new springs or head work done besides the push rod clearancing? The spring pressures would need to be increased quite a bit wont they?
 
Dave,

If you go Roller will you need new springs or head work done besides the push rod clearancing? The spring pressures would need to be increased quite a bit wont they?

all the magnums came with hydraulic roller cams...and they dont seem to have killer spring pressures on them...

hydraulic and solid roller spring requirements are like night and day
 
Louis, The pushrod clearancing done, and the spring specs match what most of the roller cams I'm looking at recommend.
 
all the magnums came with hydraulic roller cams...and they dont seem to have killer spring pressures on them...

hydraulic and solid roller spring requirements are like night and day
Why is that ? If we're comparing apples to apples, ie. similar ramp rates and valve lifts and same valve train weights, I see no reason. If you believe back to back dyno comparisons, by Engine Masters Mag.,they show hydraulics begine to loose hp. above 5k rpm. In this particular test, a bbm lost 20 hp. by 6,500, with identical specked cams.:cheers:
 
That is why I went roller. Did not want to deal with wiping lobes. Sure rollers are more expensive but how much does it cost when you wipe a lobe? Money well spent in my opinion and no break in. Start it up and drive it.

Exactly!!!!!:cheers:
 
all the magnums came with hydraulic roller cams...and they dont seem to have killer spring pressures on them...

hydraulic and solid roller spring requirements are like night and day

The roller cams in a magnum are pathetic.
You can use the springs out of a pen. lol
 
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