New Member, New Duster

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I doubt the problem is in the starter or alternator. If it was fine one day then not the next I'd be looking at vacuum leaks, plugged fuel filter, collapsed rubber fuel line, bad filter sock in tank, sort of things.
if I were to replace anything "just because" besides your list, I would add plugs and wires to the cap and rotor, plus all filters and pcv valve, and remove starter and alternator from that list. If it's working enough to bury the gauge to "+40" then it's working, and the ammeter isn't the problem either. But the ammeter is a common issue so I'd possibly do the bypass as a preventative measure.

also if it were my car, the egr would already be blocked off/ and all vacuum lines besides vacuum advance, brake booster (if equipped) and pcv would be in the trash can
leave what's left of that ccegr vacuum switch in the radiator , just as a plug.
 
volaredon said:
I doubt the problem is in the starter or alternator. If it was fine one day then not the next I'd be looking at vacuum leaks, plugged fuel filter, collapsed rubber fuel line, bad filter sock in tank, sort of things.
if I were to replace anything "just because" besides your list, I would add plugs and wires to the cap and rotor, plus all filters and pcv valve, and remove starter and alternator from that list. If it's working enough to bury the gauge to "+40" then it's working, and the ammeter isn't the problem either. But the ammeter is a common issue so I'd possibly do the bypass as a preventative measure.

also if it were my car, the egr would already be blocked off/ and all vacuum lines besides vacuum advance, brake booster (if equipped) and pcv would be in the trash can
leave what's left of that ccegr vacuum switch in the radiator , just as a plug.
Click to expand...
Yeah the reason I replaced the alt and started is because they were in really really bad shape. Would’ve had to replace anyway. That will just leave me with vacuum lines and or carb rebuild.

I’ll update tomorrow if it is up and working!
 
What makes you say the alternator and starter were in such bad shape? Ugly? Greasy? That don't count. Wait on those til they show signs of dying. Spend your money elsewhere at the moment.
Though I thought I saw somewhere above where you were replacing battery cables? If it cranks starts and runs at all those probably aren't the cause of your running issues at the moment either but after 40-some years I'm sure the insulation ain't very good anymore, and it's very likely the copper inside the insulation has turned a nasty green and is corroded. Which gives resistance and inability for electricity to flow like it should. So probably a good move. But whatever you do DON'T hodge podge those. Like using the universal replacement terminal ends with the 2 bolts that pinch the cable ends to itself. Electricity is no place for a rig job.
Find a buddy with a crimper and replace the lugs the right way and seal em with heat shrink.
But we're still getting far away from the problem at hand. Get it running, first and get the bugs out that are causing the issues AND THEN start replacing "ugly" parts and/or upgrading.
Otherwise you may unknowingly add to your frustrations. Don't be replacing parts that don't either get you to a good baseline (like tune up parts, vacuum lines, etc) or directly (and knowingly) solve the problem. Once it runs as it should there will be plenty of time to upgrade "ugly nasty" stuff for the sake of getting rid of "ugly and nasty".
 
These days also remember: "new parts" doesn't always mean "good" parts. They don't make parts for these cars the same as what they made them for these cars when they were new or even when they were 10 years old. Parts today are crap.
And for someone starting out on these cars that "don't know any better" that is even more aggravating.
"It can't be bad, I replaced it already" doesn't count any more.
 
volaredon said:
What makes you say the alternator and starter were in such bad shape? Ugly? Greasy? That don't count. Wait on those til they show signs of dying. Spend your money elsewhere at the moment.
Though I thought I saw somewhere above where you were replacing battery cables? If it cranks starts and runs at all those probably aren't the cause of your running issues at the moment either but after 40-some years I'm sure the insulation ain't very good anymore, and it's very likely the copper inside the insulation has turned a nasty green and is corroded. Which gives resistance and inability for electricity to flow like it should. So probably a good move. But whatever you do DON'T hodge podge those. Like using the universal replacement terminal ends with the 2 bolts that pinch the cable ends to itself. Electricity is no place for a rig job.
Find a buddy with a crimper and replace the lugs the right way and seal em with heat shrink.
But we're still getting far away from the problem at hand. Get it running, first and get the bugs out that are causing the issues AND THEN start replacing "ugly" parts and/or upgrading.
Otherwise you may unknowingly add to your frustrations. Don't be replacing parts that don't either get you to a good baseline (like tune up parts, vacuum lines, etc) or directly (and knowingly) solve the problem. Once it runs as it should there will be plenty of time to upgrade "ugly nasty" stuff for the sake of getting rid of "ugly and nasty".
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Thank you for your replies very helpful!

The alternator had what looked like something burned in back of it. Kinda like black from something that burned. May be explaining it wrong. And yes for the cables they were exposed and already green color going to starter.
 
Ok then that's a little different. From what you'd been saying i didn't know they were "that" ugly
 
I think you need to find the local mopar nuts in your area. (the real ones that drive their cars and work on them)
Usually always happy to help, and have been through these issues hundreds of times.
 
Keep all of the old parts for future troubleshooting and backups.
 
If the Black wire is burned, find the reason why. Don't just hook up the things you got from me and run it.
 
Ok so I got the car up and running! Somewhat. Had to jump the car since the battery was pretty dead. Once car was warm amo meter was dead center. Ran for about 20-30 minutes. As soon as I pulled in driveway it turned off. Only way to turn it back on was jumping. It is a pretty old battery but once car was warm voltage was ready 12. Something from the battery. Also, now amp meter is ready +40 This was after replacing battery wiring, starter, alrernator. Have a new VR but have not replaced yet. Waiting for ideas.

This little white thing is also very very hot. Is that normal?

90D222E4-338A-4F00-A711-EB449978D3EB.jpeg
 
Chris Hernandez said:
Ok so I got the car up and running! Somewhat. Had to jump the car since the battery was pretty dead. Once car was warm amo meter was dead center. Ran for about 20-30 minutes. As soon as I pulled in driveway it turned off. Only way to turn it back on was jumping. It is a pretty old battery but once car was warm voltage was ready 12. Something from the battery. Also, now amp meter is ready +40 This was after replacing battery wiring, starter, alrernator. Have a new VR but have not replaced yet. Waiting for ideas.

This little white thing is also very very hot. Is that normal?

View attachment 1715996482
Click to expand...

Sounds to me like your battery isn't holding a charge. A good battery should read 12.6 v when charged, after 30 minutes and with the ammeter showing no significant charging discharge the battery should have started the car again.

The white thing in the picture is a ballast resistor. It steps the voltage down for the ignition, it does that by converting electricity to heat. It should be dropping about 6v across the ballast, and they do generate heat so they can get hot. If it's getting "very very hot" there could be something going on, but if you ammeter was just pegged out your voltage may have been high too, which may have caused the excess heat.

What was the voltage showing when the ammeter was showing 40+? Could be the VR needs to be replaced too. Also, if you have a brand new alternator and are using the old style VR that might be an issue, I believe some of those newer alternators are supposed to have the newer VR's as well. But I am not the electrical guru here by any means, I give that one to @67Dart273
 
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