New Project - '71 Plymouth Valiant

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Jarrett21952

Jarrett21952

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Joined
Feb 11, 2016
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Location
Springfield, MO
I had one of these when I was a teenager, but being young and stupid I never had the money or know-how to fix it up. I recently found another one, with bodywork completed and at a price I couldn't refuse. The trouble is, it has a LOT of motor & electrical issues. I am going to need a lot of new/re-manufactured/restored parts... and i have no idea where to find them.

Any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated, as well as any advice from the restoration veterans that happen to see this. I will list known issues below:

1. Oil in block is EXTREMELY thick... like a black cottage cheese. I believe I will need to do a full tear-down and cleaning (which will yield more parts/problems). I know I can get seal/gasket kits, but am unsure as to what else I may need in that eventuality.

2. Exhaust Manifold is a solid block of rust, and has cracks at the bolt holes. Can anyone tell me where I can get another one?

3. Vacuum line from header to air intake is broken, as well as the "cap" connecting the line to the header. Need to find replacement.

4. Voltage Regulator & Alternator were replaced by previous owner, yet after running vehicle for 15-20 mins the voltage on the battery jumps up to 20v+ and gets hot. I need to find wiring diagrams and specs on all electrical systems... google is not being cooperative.

5. NONE of the lights work, except brake lights (and those only work when vehicle is in park), need to find wiring diagrams & voltage/amperage checks on those as well.

6. Drum brakes all around, and they barely stop the car. I would like to switch to disc, but am unsure of what I would need to do on a vehicle this old to accomplish this.

7. Gauges don't work at all, not sure if lines are all bad, or if it could be related to a wiring issue. Looked under the dash, and there are a LOT of wires... many of which are not connected to anything.

If you haven't already figured this out, I'm new to the restoration scene. I've always just tinkered with cars, and taught myself everything I know. I'm taking Automotive Tech classes, and going for my B.D., but have just recently started them. I never had the chance to do a restoration, but am using my classes as an excuse to force myself to learn... Plus I am absolutely in love with this car.

I would appreciate any help you guys can give!
 
go to mymopar.com there you will find wiring information +++

better yet look on EBY there's a person that sells colored diagrams that are easy to follow
 
presume it's a /6 new exhaust manifolds are easy to find such as rock auto
 
awesome - a 71! if it broke and you can't fix it - toss it and buy a new one - yea, it's expensive but you knew that - right? Are you planning to actually restore the car or do you plan to do what you have to do to get 'er running?
 
Well, the first one I had was 15 years ago and I only got rid of it due to unfortunate circumstances. This one was too good of a deal to pass up, and I was in the market for a car to work on for my classes regardless. I would like to get it up and running for now, but I do want to do a full restoration within the next two to five years.
 
lots of info here detailing possible solutions for all your problems. one thing to remember,.... regardless of what people ask on CL or feebay, most used slant parts are either cheap or free! pretty common for people to run slants with NO oil changes, Pennsoil paraffin based crap oil, and put untold miles on them running on the edge of DEATH!!!! lots od different ideas on how to clean some of that gunk out of there. maybe pull the oil pan, see how bad there??, a nd if the pickup can actually suck some oil!

search the posts and also look into slantsix.org for good info there too.
 
If you need a new exhaust manifold, try Silver Seal engine parts here. They have repro new slant 6 exhaust manifolds new and I got one sent to my door in a few days for under $200 (after they were out of stock) and that included brackets and hardware...

Most old ones have the characteristic cracks, it's best to go new.

http://www.silver-seal.com/

Service manual downloads:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109


Electrical/wiring:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18


If the engine runs, try putting a quart of dextron transmission fluid in there and run it for an hour or two, then change the oil. Trans fluid is high detergent oil and will help clean out the oil in your engine.
 
you have quite the laundry list there - best to tackle one thing at a time and get back to us with specific questions as they arise - as you are not doing a restoration you'll probably do better buying aftermarket moderate performance/upgrade parts or finding a decent donor car and stripping pieces and parts as you need them.. some pics of the car would be great. What I believe barbee was saying is drop that oil pan and pull the pump and pick up- get them CLEAN - then you'll need to test the pump to see if it works - suck some oil. Oh - Google it Google it Google it.
 
krazykuda said:
If you need a new exhaust manifold, try Silver Seal engine parts here. They have repro new slant 6 exhaust manifolds new and I got one sent to my door in a few days for under $200 (after they were out of stock) and that included brackets and hardware...

Most old ones have the characteristic cracks, it's best to go new.

http://www.silver-seal.com/

Service manual downloads:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109


Electrical/wiring:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18


If the engine runs, try putting a quart of dextron transmission fluid in there and run it for an hour or two, then change the oil. Trans fluid is high detergent oil and will help clean out the oil in your engine.
Click to expand...

You sir, are awesome... Thank you for the tip on the exhaust manifold.

I currently have the battery and some wiring pulled (wiring was half twisted together, not soldered or insulated, or even wrapped with electrical tape), so I will flush the oil and run her some more when I get that fixed.

I got the wiring diagrams off of mymopar.com... but the old diagrams are so confusing compared to the new ones you can find on mitchell or prodata (which only go as far back as 1974). The wiring diagram is shown as a whole instead of separated by individual systems, making it very difficult to decipher. I will need to consult with my Electrical Instructor and see if he can help me.

Does anyone know where I can get a kit for the 9.5" disc brakes? I see that Rock Auto has individual parts for the brakes, but I am unsure of all the components that need to be included.

Finally: here are some pictures. I'm not sure if you guys can view the ones that I have in my portfolio.

Driver/Front:
vbpgimage.php


Driver/Rear (Before Pickup):
vbpgimage.php


Driver's Side:
vbpgimage.php


Engine Compartment (Before Teardown):
vbpgimage.php


As It Sits Now:
vbpgimage.php
 
Jarrett21952 said:
What do you mean by this?
Click to expand...

There is a screen that sits at the bottom of the pan with a tube that runs to the oil pump. The pump sucks the oil from the pan and feeds the engine. If the oil is too thick and has clogged the screen or tube, you won't get oil to the engine. Nice solid car! Got interior pics?
 
Your braking issues may have more to do with adjustment rather than a faulty system. Those drum brakes are actually quite good when everything is adjusted correctly and everything is in good shape. Open all the bleeders to the wheel cylinders and keep fresh brake fluid in the master. Clamp the lid back on and pump the pedal until all the old, brown fluid is evacuated. Do this till the fluid runs clear. You will have to fill the master several times.

Check your lines and wheel cylinders first to make sure they're in good condition. Check the shoes for wear. If they look good, they might be out of adjustment, giving you less than adequate braking. A disc "upgrade" may not be needed. When everything is in good shape and properly adjusted, those drum brakes should be plenty good for your car. Keep us posted.
 
As for the lights and gauges, that might sort itself out once you get the electrical gremlins worked out. You had mentioned that some of the wiring under the dash wasn't even hooked up. Some of that wiring could be for the gauges and dash lights. The bulbs in the dash may also be blown or missing, so check that as well. Start simple and cheap. Find the fuses for lights and gauges and check for blown fuses. Sometimes it's that simple!!
 
Alright, I cleaned the ground terminals at the alternator (which was fried), the batt. negative to ground, and the voltage regulator/starter ground (which are linked together for some reason). Got a digital multimeter and tested the battery which is running at 14.3v when disconnected from the car (never seen higher than 12.6v, possibly extra stored voltage from original issue). Problem is, I can't test the electrical issues at a constant rate, as I can't get the car to stay running for more than 5 seconds without holding down the gas. The carburetor is leaking fuel onto the intake manifold, everytime you press the pedal. I still need to change the ball joint and tie rods on the drivers side. Going to bleed the drum brakes all around this weekend and see if I can keep them (may still switch to disc regardless).

Good news! Not exactly sure how it got fixed (likely from the batt. negative to ground), but all the lights are now working, headlights, parking lamps, tail lights and brake lights, as well as hazards. However, the blinker switch is bad... so no turn signals (anyone wanna sell one cheap?).

Anyways, reason I'm bumping this... I've decided that I'm going to get her running and fine tune her here and there as my daily driver... while I build a 360 in my shed. Question is, what do you guys think is the best options for a 360 build? Plan is to start from scratch and build over the next couple years, so any recommendations on parts, brands, etc...
 
My oldest son is working on a 71 Valiant 4 door also...

Ours is an original 318 A/C car, but we are removing the a/c from the engine compartment and swapping in a 91 360.

The 91 360 is nice because it is the last year that you can use the LA intakes and exhaust manifolds, but still has a roller cam...

We have rebuilt the whole front suspension, new super stock rear leaf springs, upgraded to an 8 3/4" axle with 3.91 gears, sure grip, new brake and fuel lines all the way around, new 10" drums in the rear, and kelsey hayes front discs. We have also put a new dash wiring harness in, new dash pad, and carpet. He stripped the paint off by himself.

We're working on rewiring the engine right now...

View attachment Ken Val A01 B.jpg

View attachment Ken Val A02 B.jpg

View attachment Ken Val A03 B.jpg


Let me know if you need any info about ours to apply to yours... I have been building Mopars and small blocks for over 30 years...

Here's a thread on how to id a small block engine for when you start looking for a 360. If you want to go with a roller cam 360, I like the 88-91 360 as it has roller lifters and I can use the old small block intakes and exhaust manifolds on them. I also like the LA style 360's myself... I have a few of them laying around... If you build them right, you can run with a 340 or better...


My youngest son just bought a 68 Valiant 4 door last week which he will pick up next month..


Welcome to the 4 door Valiant club.... :cheers:
 
Jarrett21952 said:
Does anyone know where I can get a kit for the 9.5" disc brakes? I see that Rock Auto has individual parts for the brakes, but I am unsure of all the components that need to be included.
Click to expand...

We bought a rebuilt set of kelesy hayes disc brakes from a member here (Hemi71x - Jim V.) who rebuilds them. They are a little $$$, but worth it to just bolt on and go... Just remove the old brakes from the upper and lower control arms and bolt in the new ones.. It's a nice package/kit that is complete...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=340909

These will also work great when you swap in a 360 and you can keep the small 4" bolt pattern wheels...
 
Jarrett21952 said:
I will flush the oil and run her some more when I get that fixed.
Click to expand...


One trick that we used to do back in the day for a sludged up engine, is to run a quart of trans fluid with the oil for a day, then change the oil. Trans fluid is like light high detergent oil and will help clean out the dirt and sludge without hurting the engine..
 
just now got back... I live out in the sticks from springfield. need one?? exh man. go to Buddy's Pick a part, on the road to Republic. I was there last week, noticed several slant exh man someone robbed the funky washers off of, and threw the manifold in the trunk, front seat where ever it went. look it over good for damage. should be very cheap! if not haggle......
don't buy a new one unless your wealthy.......
 
krazykuda said:
My oldest son is working on a 71 Valiant 4 door also...

Ours is an original 318 A/C car, but we are removing the a/c from the engine compartment and swapping in a 91 360.

The 91 360 is nice because it is the last year that you can use the LA intakes and exhaust manifolds, but still has a roller cam...

We have rebuilt the whole front suspension, new super stock rear leaf springs, upgraded to an 8 3/4" axle with 3.91 gears, sure grip, new brake and fuel lines all the way around, new 10" drums in the rear, and kelsey hayes front discs. We have also put a new dash wiring harness in, new dash pad, and carpet. He stripped the paint off by himself.

We're working on rewiring the engine right now...

Let me know if you need any info about ours to apply to yours... I have been building Mopars and small blocks for over 30 years...

Here's a thread on how to id a small block engine for when you start looking for a 360. If you want to go with a roller cam 360, I like the 88-91 360 as it has roller lifters and I can use the old small block intakes and exhaust manifolds on them. I also like the LA style 360's myself... I have a few of them laying around... If you build them right, you can run with a 340 or better...
Click to expand...

krazykuda said:
We bought a rebuilt set of kelesy hayes disc brakes from a member here (Hemi71x - Jim V.) who rebuilds them. They are a little $$$, but worth it to just bolt on and go... Just remove the old brakes from the upper and lower control arms and bolt in the new ones.. It's a nice package/kit that is complete...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=340909

These will also work great when you swap in a 360 and you can keep the small 4" bolt pattern wheels...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips on the 360's and Brakes man, and it's funny you mention that... My dad told me right before my last post that I should get a 360 out of a '91 Dodge (Durango, I think he said). Sounds like you know what you're talking about, or at least a lot more than I do.... so I will definitely look into that.

Also, my Father-in-law told me about the transmission fluid trick... already taken care of and finished. Unfortunately, now there's more damn problems.

barbee6043 said:
just now got back... I live out in the sticks from springfield. need one?? exh man. go to Buddy's Pick a part, on the road to Republic. I was there last week, noticed several slant exh man someone robbed the funky washers off of, and threw the manifold in the trunk, front seat where ever it went. look it over good for damage. should be very cheap! if not haggle......
don't buy a new one unless your wealthy.......
Click to expand...

Awesome man! It's nice to see that there's some locals around me on this site, will be nice to possibly have a chance to show her off in person to people I know (or kind of know) when she's done. Thanks for the tip on the parts yard, I also heard of another place in Brookline (owned by a Mr. Rick Carson), but i don't know the name of the place. I was recommended to it by a Mr. John Carnahan, not sure if you know him or not.

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Also, I was recommended by 72ScampTramp through Facebook to check out these light replacements:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321484933435

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121871720223

I already bought the parking lamp and tail light LED's, and am planning on replacing all the lights with LED's eventually. Just thought I would show anyone who's reading this a potential upgrade, and maybe get some opinions on them.

As always, thanks for reading and any advice/tips guys!
 
have you tried jumping power straight to the starter? if it still won't turn, you have a bad starter... if it does turn over, you likely have a bad relay. The firewall wire thing -a pic or two would help a lot.
 
One more thing, I found this wire poking out on the passenger side of the motor. It's coming out of the harness that ties to the Alternator, but the wire is too short to reach it (don't think it goes to the alt. anyways), it looks like it goes to the Distributor, but I can't see anywhere it would connect? Any help would be amazing, anything to get her at least running again... I miss the sound of her purr...

vbpgimage.php
 
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