dennday67
Well-Known Member
Looks like the oil pressure sending unit wire to me. Should be down around the oil filter housing.
New Project - '71 Plymouth Valiant
- Thread starter Jarrett21952
- Start date
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dennday67
Well-Known Member
Jarrett21952
Active Member
Well, you were absolutely right. I searched in the car and couldn't find a connection (bit of a tight squeeze), so I traced the wire back to the bulkhead connections and compared it to the original service manuals... "Oil Pressure Sending Unit". Now if only I could find the damn thing (I'll get it eventually, just been cold recently and I don't look for too long).
On a good note though, I found the original service manuals through mymopar.com and am finally able to make sense of the wire clusters under the hood. Given that most of them are extremely old and corroded with faded colors - all of which are wrapped in electrical tape - and will likely need to be replaced, I believe that I will just buy replacement spools and rewire the whole front end of the car. If nothing else, this will help familiarize me with it's layout and provide clean flowing current to the components.
Also, I believe I've found the issue why it's not starting now... Starter Solenoid. She will click for a second or so, then act like the battery is dead. Battery still reads 13v through the multimeter. She started and ran just fine for a while, so I highly doubt it's the starter itself. It seems more likely to me that there could be a short in the coil or possibly the hold-in section. OReilly's has a whole starter - including solenoid - for $50, comes with a lifetime warranty.
Will keep you guys posted as progress continues. More posts and questions to come.
PS: Does anyone know where I can get the Bulkhead Connections (Male/Female wire ends) for cheap?
Jarrett21952
Active Member
Also, I think I found the Oil Pressure Sending Unit... unfortunately, the end of it does not have the tab where the wire can click on (broken off possibly?). Can someone confirm this?
Pic is looking up under oil filter, from under passenger side front wheel well.
Pic is looking up under oil filter, from under passenger side front wheel well.
dennday67
Well-Known Member
It slides over the end of the sending unit. If I can Ill take a picture tomorrow. The wiring under the hood is really simple. I swapped out the stock started for the Dakota mini starter. Night and day difference when starting after sitting all winter.
Jarrett21952
Active Member
What motor are you running? I'm not sure if a modern starter will fit the 225ci 3.7L?
Also, I found this:
Mind you, this terminal photo is from a Camaro forum, but the idea stands. The terminal at the end of my wire fits the fourth unit, while the second one is the oil unit mounted on my oil filter.
Also, I think I found the Oil Pressure Sending Unit... unfortunately, the end of it does not have the tab where the wire can click on (broken off possibly?). Can someone confirm this?
Pic is looking up under oil filter, from under passenger side front wheel well.
That gets a flat type of terminal that slips over that round end at the tip of the sending unit. V-8 cars usually have a gray wire from the factory...
dennday67
Well-Known Member
Mini starter fits fine in the 225 and its looks to me like you have the right connection on your gray wire for our oil pressure sending unit. They take a spade end that clips on the the little round brass piece.
adult image
adult image
It goes like this:
Top of connector:
View attachment OSU Wire A02 B.jpg
Bottom of connector:
View attachment OSU Wire A03 B.jpg
Sliding connector onto switch:
View attachment OSU Wire A05 B.jpg
View attachment OSU Wire A07 B.jpg
View attachment OSU Wire A08 B.jpg
Fully on connector:
View attachment OSU Wire A09 B.jpg
View attachment OSU Wire A10 B.jpg
View attachment OSU Wire A11 B.jpg
Jarrett21952
Active Member
I didn't try to attach it, i just presumed that I had the incorrect wire end. In my defense, I did just get this car from a guy that did a bunch of work to it, much of which I am replacing due to lack of quality and attention to detail (aren't I just the hypocrite right now?), so I guess I got in the mindset that it was likely disconnected when I got it and was just not properly replaced when the work was done.
Thank you both for helping me clear that up, and as always - the experience I am absorbing from FABO members is incredibly helpful!
Thank you both for helping me clear that up, and as always - the experience I am absorbing from FABO members is incredibly helpful!
The wire may still be there, you just may have to find it...
But now you know what you are looking for so if you do see it you will recognize it...
But now you know what you are looking for so if you do see it you will recognize it...
Jarrett21952
Active Member
Alright... Update time, and another problem (DONT THEY EVER STOP!?!):
Cranking issue was simple... bad cells in battery. It was holding +12v while not cranking due to overcharge from before, but two bad cells killed the cranking amps.
Now... she will start, but will not stay running when I let my foot off the gas. Here's a list of all the stuff I know:
Fuel Pump is good.
New Fuel Filter.
New Spark Plugs and Wires.
New Battery (800+ CCA/1000+ CA), I believe car needs 440 CCA to crank.
Starter is good, had it tested at O'Reilly's.
Charge System Wires Replaced, good connections at all points.
Fusible Link is good.
Carb Flap (unsure of actual name) is seized open (getting too much air?). There is a line tied from the flap mechanism on the outside of the carb leading into the exhaust manifold, slightly bent and will not move. I'm unsure if this piece is supposed to move due to something in the motor?
I am unsure what the problem could be, i don't know if the timing is off, or the carb is the problem. Possibly throttle line too loose? If you guys have any ideas, please let me know.
Also, I need to find the bulkhead connector ends, so I can rewire everything else under the hood (I would like to clear as many potential issues as possible - and I'm finishing my electrical class right now, so it's a good time to do the work). I cannot tell if these are the correct ends (Wires in bulkhead are pretty old... don't want to pull one and risk killing the car until i know I can fix it on hand):
Thanks guys, as always - any help is appreciated!
Cranking issue was simple... bad cells in battery. It was holding +12v while not cranking due to overcharge from before, but two bad cells killed the cranking amps.
Now... she will start, but will not stay running when I let my foot off the gas. Here's a list of all the stuff I know:
Fuel Pump is good.
New Fuel Filter.
New Spark Plugs and Wires.
New Battery (800+ CCA/1000+ CA), I believe car needs 440 CCA to crank.
Starter is good, had it tested at O'Reilly's.
Charge System Wires Replaced, good connections at all points.
Fusible Link is good.
Carb Flap (unsure of actual name) is seized open (getting too much air?). There is a line tied from the flap mechanism on the outside of the carb leading into the exhaust manifold, slightly bent and will not move. I'm unsure if this piece is supposed to move due to something in the motor?
I am unsure what the problem could be, i don't know if the timing is off, or the carb is the problem. Possibly throttle line too loose? If you guys have any ideas, please let me know.
Also, I need to find the bulkhead connector ends, so I can rewire everything else under the hood (I would like to clear as many potential issues as possible - and I'm finishing my electrical class right now, so it's a good time to do the work). I cannot tell if these are the correct ends (Wires in bulkhead are pretty old... don't want to pull one and risk killing the car until i know I can fix it on hand):
Thanks guys, as always - any help is appreciated!
so I just notice oil leaking from my sending unit where the black meets the silver ( nut looking ring ) and now my oil light stays on while running. it only drips when engine is running. is it common for them to fail that way? And now they wire is grounded in the sending unit , or could this be a bigger issue? it is a /6 that was rebuilt 2k ago before I got it and the sending unit looks to be new .
I would replace the sending unit before it leaks worse and you loose too much oil...
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