New to me 73 duster 340

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RustyRatRod said:
I'm sorry. I somehow missed it. I agree with those that the converter and rear gear ratio is probably the culprit. Is there any way you can post a video of the car running so we can get an idea of how "aggressive" the cam is? That would help.
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I’d be happy to! I’ll take a video tomorrow
 
Dart Frog said:
I would try to get any information I could about the camshaft you really need to know specs to maximize its potential as far as matching gears and stall etc. You should post some more pics we love pics. By the way that is a great looking duster your lucky man:thumbsup:
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Unfortunately he didn’t know the specs and I don’t know who installed it originally. Thanks man!
 
Demonracer said:
Start with the basics, check the plugs to make sure they are the correct heart range, as mentioned set the initial timing 16-17* and around 37* total at about 2000 rpm. Get a vacuum gauge and hook it to the "manifold" vacuum port on the carburetor and tune the mixture screws for maximum vacuum reading. Take it out and drive it to see if those changes make any difference before tearing into the engine. Someone may have detuned it, "just because".
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It had Bosch wr9lp plugs in it. I put a set of ngk bp6es gapped at .035. Is there a better plug or gap you would recommend? I’ll do the mixture screws this week!
 
One thing I did notice was the oil pressure seems to me excessively low. Once warmed up at idle is only around 14 psi. I read all sorts of numbers of what it should be and couldn’t get a conclusion on that. Spoke to an engine builder locally and he said 7psi per 1k rpm and it’s sounds about right where it is? Does that sound right?
 
I prefer the NGK plugs, but my application is race only. You might what to buy a bore scope from Harbor Freight and take a peek in the spark plugs holes, just to make sure what the pistons are.
 
Demonracer said:
I prefer the NGK plugs, but my application is race only. You might what to buy a bore scope from Harbor Freight and take a peek in the spark plugs holes, just to make sure what the pistons are.
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Funny enough that’s how I found out lol
IMG_7900.jpeg
 
The oil pressure is probably good as is. Does the gauge read higher as you bring the rpms up?
 
That looks like a Sealed Power logo. Can you tell if the pistons have two or four eyebrows, of if they have a slight dome to them?
 
Demonracer said:
That looks like a Sealed Power logo. Can you tell if the pistons have two or four eyebrows, of if they have a slight dome to them?
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I looked up the logo and it was speed pro. The numbers on top of the piston were readable but tough to get the camera in the right orientation . Looked to be only two eyes
 
t2ae said:
One thing I did notice was the oil pressure seems to me excessively low. Once warmed up at idle is only around 14 psi. I read all sorts of numbers of what it should be and couldn’t get a conclusion on that. Spoke to an engine builder locally and he said 7psi per 1k rpm and it’s sounds about right where it is? Does that sound right?
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It's not great, but it's ok. What is the oil pressure at around 2000 RPM?
 
My Duster 340 had a beat up Edelbrock Performer 750 and I decided to put a brand new Edelbrock AVS2 650 on it. After 2 drives and consulting my Mopar buddy we put the Performer 750 back on and it woke the engine back up. So don’t overlook carburetor selection/tuning. I know you have a Holley, but you have a performance built engine, is the Holley gone thru for performance on your engine or is it just bolted on out of the box tune? I’m sure could have gone thru and gotten the AVS2 up to the build spec of the Performer, but out of the box that AVS2 seemed like it cut the seat if the pants fun out of the car. It ran and drove fine, just acted like there was no real power to put you back in the seat. So do not overlook the carb tune, just cause it runs fine doesn’t mean it’s tuned to match the capability of the engine.
 
Wvbuzzmaster said:
My Duster 340 had a beat up Edelbrock Performer 750 and I decided to put a brand new Edelbrock AVS2 650 on it. After 2 drives and consulting my Mopar buddy we put the Performer 750 back on and it woke the engine back up. So don’t overlook carburetor selection/tuning. I know you have a Holley, but you have a performance built engine, is the Holley gone thru for performance on your engine or is it just bolted on out of the box tune? I’m sure could have gone thru and gotten the AVS2 up to the build spec of the Performer, but out of the box that AVS2 seemed like it cut the seat if the pants fun out of the car. It ran and drove fine, just acted like there was no real power to put you back in the seat. So do not overlook the carb tune, just cause it runs fine doesn’t mean it’s tuned to match the capability of the engine.
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How do you determine how big of a carb you chose?
 
I bought an old avs 750 from a 440. Bolted it on and works great. 340/eddy heads/rpm intake.
 
crackedback said:
The secret, "it's stock". look back in the day.
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So update. The block is bored .60 over. Has a 9 1/4 rear end with the 3.23 gears with a tork lock gear carrier. Trans shift kit is set to shift at 5k. Has j heads that are ported with triple seat valves.
 

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