NHRA, Roll cage question (s)

-
Cope

Cope

Fusing with fire
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
6,737
Reaction score
10,195
Location
San Jose, Ca.
Im reading the NHRA rule book and have a guick question about cages, probly more to come...

The book states "Any grinding of welds prohibited."

so I guess its a one shot deal? No grinding a weld out and starting over?

Is there any real advantage to TIG welding the cage?

We do have a certified TIG and MIG guy but dam I hope He dont screw up....
 
Cope said:
Im reading the NHRA rule book and have a guick question about cages, probly more to come...

The book states "Any grinding of welds prohibited."

so I guess its a one shot deal? No grinding a weld out and starting over?

Is there any real advantage to TIG welding the cage?

We do have a certified TIG and MIG guy but dam I hope He dont screw up....
Click to expand...

TIG welding is much stronger when done properly, it also affects the material less leaving the material stronger as well.

You can grind a bad weld out and re-do it but you can not grind down a bad weld for appearance or any other reason. If a grinder touches the weld you need to grind out and start over.

There is also to be no grinding on the tubing as you need to keep the material thickness.

I've seen some pretty horrendous welds passed by nhra cert guys, if you have a capable welder i would worry.
 
As far as I can read into it the car will fall into "Altered, Funny car" Cage requirements.

Still need to finish the motor and weigh the car but thats what I think it will fit into.
 
Cope said:
As far as I can read into it the car will fall into "Altered, Funny car" Cage requirements.

Still need to finish the motor and weigh the car but thats what I think it will fit into.
Click to expand...

Ok, how fast do plan on going?

If your going faster than 8.50 I would suggest getting an sfi book. That is what you'll need for anything faster than an 8.50 cert cage.
 
How fast? How fast can two guys empty their wallets is the question..

We had a joke in the shop, "put your wallet on the counter and drop your pants, this is gonna hurt...."

If the motor dose what I want and the car runs true and straight and we have the balls to push it.. sub 9s?.. in the quarter. (NA)

This car is well above and beyond anything i have ever done, so who knows?

Good call on the sfi book, I will be getting one next order.. (tomarrow)

I'll be happy just to see the car make it down the track...
 
Cope it shouldnt unless it is one. It goes by speed/ et and material if you wanna get picky. If chromoly- tig it. If dom mild steel- tig or mig it. If faster than 8.50 buy a book. If its over 8.50 and a drop top follow those rules.
 
MidTexCuda said:
Cope it shouldnt unless it is one. It goes by speed/ et and material if you wanna get picky. If chromoly- tig it. If dom mild steel- tig or mig it. If faster than 8.50 buy a book. If its over 8.50 and a drop top follow those rules.
Click to expand...

Yeah no need for sfi book if your not going faster than 8.50, there's nothing in the sfi book fir 8.50 and slower. You will not need a funny car cage either at 8.50 and slower.

I think your over thinking this.
 
This car has no roof, no fenders or hood.
injected big block. (454)
9 1/2" chop. 6" of front window.
pre 1946.

I think the Injection and the no fenders, hood and chop puts it in altered class?

I just dont want to screw this up.
 
You want to go by the section ,et 7.50 and slower. That will refer you to the general regs. Pat attention so as to keep the need for a driving suit down. Firewall,trans tunnel,material thickness etc. Or start saving up for a /15 suit.
 
Thanks Dave.

I dont want to go out in a ball of flame...
Nomex is not cheep.. but fire blowing on me at speed dont sound fun either..

at our (pay) rate not sure we even gonna have the car done this season, but I look forward to meeting ya at the track.

Hopefully in a year we will have three cars track ready.

Thanks again for all your help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top