No fire

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Seca900r

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Well the car had been started a few times while sitting in the garage for the gear change then as soon as I get the car back on its wheels...no spark....of course. DAM. No spark when it`s cranking but as soon as I turn the ignition off, I can feel a bump from I guess it firing? It`s a 69 dart that I rewired for electronic ignition and charging. It`s been working fine for a couple years now. I swapped out the coil, ECU and regulator, checked the ballast resister, what am I missing...well the pick up in the distributor is newer but that I haven`t done anything with yet. Any suggestions?
 
Ohm's check the dist. pick-up, it should be between 150-900 Ohms. Check voltage at the coil +, both cranking and with the key in the run position.

Gear change I'm assuming you mean a new gear set in the diff? If you might have had the transm. out you migh have pinched a wire on the bellhousing.
 
Thanks for the help guys, it was the pick up in the distributor. After swapping out another ECU and nothing, I tapped on the side of the dist. and it fired right up. Now it has a high speed miss..going to put the MSD coil back in and take the stock one out. Maybe thats it?

Update: While swapping parts I guess the regulator I put in was bad, not charging. Put the good one back in....alls good.

will be going to summerduck dragstrip this thursday to see what the gears do to my 8.5sec. times.
 
Sounds like classic Ballast blown, how did you check it, probably ohm meter


For you information, if a ballast resistor goes bad (goes open) the car will run while cranking, the monent you let you hand off the key and the ignition switch goes from (ignition 2, start) position to (ignition 1, run) position it will then die. The reason for this is when you are in ignition 2, you are bypassing the resistor completly and the switch is putting a full 12 volts (battery voltage) to the coil +. When you let off the key, the ignition switch goes to another set of contacts within itself (ignition 1). When it does this it then sends battery voltage to the ballast resistor which in turn sends a reduced voltage to the coil +.
 
For you information, if a ballast resistor goes bad (goes open) the car will run while cranking, the monent you let you hand off the key and the ignition switch goes from (ignition 2, start) position to (ignition 1, run) position it will then die. The reason for this is when you are in ignition 2, you are bypassing the resistor completly and the switch is putting a full 12 volts (battery voltage) to the coil +. When you let off the key, the ignition switch goes to another set of contacts within itself (ignition 1). When it does this it then sends battery voltage to the ballast resistor which in turn sends a reduced voltage to the coil +.

have found this to be true...with the ballast resistor. another culprit i might suggest from recent experience is the fuel filter. after we trouble-shot my ignition wiring, we checked the practically new metal fuel filter...talk about rust dump! time for a gas tank flush. anyhoo. it's been causing a major stall. diff issue, really, but i did want to agree that the ballast resistor will turn engine over till the ignition is off. i think its an important diagnostic.
 
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