No fluid at rear brakes

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sbh126

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I just installed new brake lines on my 74 duster with manual brakes. I'm trying to bleed my brakes now and cant seem to get any juice to the rear brakes. When I bled the front brakes I got fluid after just a few pumps, with the rear we kept pumping for 15 minutes and got nothing. I'm thinking i may have some lines crossed at the prop valve but I'm not sure. Here's how I have it hooked up.
Top rear of prop valve goes to front right brake.Top front goes to front left. Bottom rear goes to rear brakes. bottom front goes to the front of the master cylinder. Very top goes to rear of master cylinder.
It doesn't appear to be leaking fluid anywhere. Any suggestions?
 
Could be that the rear brake hose is defective or blocked. I'd replace it and would bet you'll have no problems getting fluid to the wheel cylinders.
 
or you the porporting valve has the rear wheels locked out, never go to the floor when bleeding a brake system.
 
Could be that the rear brake hose is defective or blocked. I'd replace it and would bet you'll have no problems getting fluid to the wheel cylinders.



i agree with this one i had the same problem in my chebby changed it and wellah worked like advertised.
 
Always bleed the rear brakes first,starting with the farthest (passenger side).
Rear passenger,Rear driver,Front passenger,Front driver is the order.

Did you bench bleed your master cylinder ?
 
Bench bleed the master first, do it in the car it will be less messy.
This is the best way to bleed brakes.
Start at the right rear.
Open the bleeder, have somebody press the petal slowly, hold the petal to the floor.
Close the bleeder.
Repeat until fluid comes out with no bubbles.
Go to the left rear, do the same thing.
Right front next, then left front.
Repeat and you will have good brakes.
Whatever you do never pump the petal all you do is put more air in the system.
You need to push the fluid thru the lines, pumping just will add more air.
 
I bleed my own brakes by myself..gravity fed.Open the right rear bleeder and wait,it will eventually start to drip.Unless like said above,your rear flexline is swollen shut inside from age.
 
I just had a same problem ended up being the master cylinder. I couldn't even get the rear port to bleed at the master by cracking loose the main line for the rear brakes.

Might try bleeding at the Master cylinder and main line. Just treat the main line like a bleeder screw. Put lots of rags down to keep fluid off any paint.
 
The MC is brand new. I used it for a few monthes with no problems until I put in new lines. I'll bench bleed it again just to be sure. Now that I think of it I did have it apart to get it powdercoated. If I assembled it wrong could I be getting a problem like this? I just read a thread that said the front of the MC is supposed to be plugged into the top of the prop valve and the rear goes to the front bottom. Is this correct? I cant seem to find any images online to see how its supposed to be.
 
well you may have a few issues going on...1. the powder coating may have blocked something or is interfering with your cylinder/piston movement. 2. you could have a blocked line or flex line. 3. if you used a PROP valve for front disk/rear drum brakes and you have all drum brakes, you have the incorrect valve in place and it will not distribute pressure evenly/properly. 4. Completely remove each of the rear bleeders they may be rusted closed or blocked ( small wire will fix that once its out.)
IF all of these things are OK and your MC is working properly after powdercoating and your wheel cylinders/calipers are ok and the lines are clear and you are still not getting pressure, then your vehicle is possessed by SATAN, sell it and start over.
Hydraulic systems are really pretty simple if you think your MC is hosed go to the parts store and get another one and bolt it on and see if you get rear pressure, if you do RETURN IT and rebuild your powder coated one....if you dont time for new or blown out lines and or wheel cylinders/calipers.... not much of a mystery
 
i just founf this pic. and it shows thr front of MC hooks to the front bottom of prop valve??? Are they wrong or am I? I'm going to try and blow out the lines with an air compressor and make sure the prop valve is getting fluid. I;ll post an update it the morning.

On a side note, I just put a rear disk kit from summit on. the instructions didn't mention having to change out the MC or prop valve so I assume its compatible but I just want to make sure.
 
I removed the master cylinder and pumped it all the way down a few times and now it seems to work fine!
 
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