So this morning I was heading to work with my Dart that has a slant six. As I started up I heard a clanging sound from the engine that went away pretty fast. But I noticed if I gently reved the engine it would start to go clangclangclang briefly on a specific rpm. I checked under the hood but couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. I took the risk and drove the 5km to work, didn't hear a single clang, tried to check for the sound again when I arrived by reving but it was gone. The sound could be described as if someone was tapping on sheet metal or something hitting a metal fan( I checked the fan, it was clear). Going to check it up when I get home but does someone have any ideas where and what to look for?
Noises in the tower
- Thread starter Dodge6719
- Start date
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dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
How's your oil pressure and oil level?? Could be valve knock due to lack of oil. I know in my slant six if I let the oil level get low the valves would tick like crazy.
That was my first thought too but it wasn't a knocking sound, wouldn't it keep making noice all the time if the oil pressure was low? I only have the dummy light and it goes out almost immediately when the engine starts, oli level was good a little while ago, just short of full but will recheck when I leave work.
Badvert65
Long Time Mopar Nut
Did power feel 'normal'? I had a Volare that had a valve sticking problem and it would bend a pushrod. When it did, it made a racket until the pushrod came off the lifter.
I got the stuck valve issue fixed, but not until it ate a few more pushrods. They made a terrible racket while the end of the pushrod was still in the lifter.
I got the stuck valve issue fixed, but not until it ate a few more pushrods. They made a terrible racket while the end of the pushrod was still in the lifter.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Typical and exact symptoms of a cracked flex plate or loose converter bolts.
slantsixdan
=..=
…but before you get too worried, check and see if the crankshaft has been hitting the dipstick. Either the stick will be shorter than it should be, or you'll feel it getting hit if you put your hand on it with the engine running (and the noise will go away if you take the stick out of the engine).
If this is the problem, carefully bend the top of the dipstick tube slightly inward toward the block. Replace the dipstick if necessary.
If this is the problem, carefully bend the top of the dipstick tube slightly inward toward the block. Replace the dipstick if necessary.
Yes, everything else seemed normal the engine ran like a usual. Just additional noice at first start of the morning.
Checked the bolts, all there and tight. Couldn't really inspect the flexplate so good as I went in from the starter hole.
The dipstick is actually junk on mine, the tube is broken right at the block and not fastened anywhere else so it just hangs there and actually the tip would be pointed towards the crank. Did check the oil but didn't see anything out of the ordinary on the stick, but then again I didn't look at the tip so close. This sounds like it could be a thing but then I have managed for 10 years to avoid this.
Gonna check the valves tomorrow just to be sure, haven't been able to reproduce the sound since this morning.
Get a "new" diostick tube and replace it. Someone here probably has the correct parts you need.
Dan is right. On my first or second test drive after rebuilding my 225, I started hearing a distinct clicking sound.
It WAS the end of the dipstick hitting the crank. 4-1/8 stroke is a pretty decent swing, ya know? I also lost over half the oil out the tube because the crank kicked the stick up by the time I got home.
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