AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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J
I asked the question, he answered
Thx Bob,
I asked the question, he answered
Thx Bob,
Noisy Lifters
- Thread starter bobscuda67
- Start date
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If they are anti pump lifters, that's too much preload.
Not at all. I am bein dead serious. People need to read up on what they buy. Anti pump up lifters are supposed to be noisier by design than standard hydraulic lifters, since they require less adjustment or even a little lash. They are a high performance racing type hydraulic lifter. Either you're building that type engine, or not.
In for a penny in for a pound as they say.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Ok. How can I accurately set the correct preload?
I was worried they were too loose.
To be honest, I don't feel like the engine runs like it should. I wanted to double check the valve adjustment before starting to tune the car. By the way it has nothing to do with noise, I knew this cam would be noisy, but never realised the lifters also played into it.
It IS loud with the hood up, but if I know everything is right, I don't mind.
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If you are 100% certain they are anti pump up lifters and NOT the fast bleed down like Rhoads, "I" would adjust them to about .002" lash with a feeler gauge.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
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I bought them, and the adjustable arms, and the custom length pushrods, cuz I wanted my engine to safely rev to 7200, and to last at least 100,000 miles. My first cam-choice was the 292/508, and as you probably know,that sucker likes to rev.I was not interested in racing, and still am not. The little 367 hit both targets, and is still very strong, both it and the Eddies show no sign of giving up. The engine has not been opened up since 2004/2005 ish,when the 230* went in, so I am very happy with it.My cost of ownership, of the entire car,is down to less than 24cents a mile.This is very near to my later model EFI DDs
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KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Sho nuff.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Turns out they are 99378-16 HIGH INTENSITY , Rhoads type.
Well good. At least now you know what you have and they can be adjusted like regular lifters.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
I just went through them once. Using the 'exhaust starts to open/ adjust intake, intake almost closed/ adjust exhaust' method.
Bumping it around with the starter relay.
I am backing off the adjuster then twisting the pushrod till the slightest tension then going one half turn more or less until the tension feels the same on every one.
Due to my setup it's real hard the get a socket on the crank bolt. Is this method accurate enough?
Should I go back through them again?
Bumping it around with the starter relay.
I am backing off the adjuster then twisting the pushrod till the slightest tension then going one half turn more or less until the tension feels the same on every one.
Due to my setup it's real hard the get a socket on the crank bolt. Is this method accurate enough?
Should I go back through them again?
I never have liked that method, but that's just my personal opinion. Others use it with great success. I have had the best results hands down adjusting them simply one at a time, verifying each one I adjust is on the base circle. It's not hard to do, but is a little more time consuming.
I am not bashing the other way. Far from it. It's me I am sure. I probably don't have enough sense to do it that way.
I am not bashing the other way. Far from it. It's me I am sure. I probably don't have enough sense to do it that way.
That's a good straight forward article Roy. Thanks for sharing.
Hey no problem, glad I can contribute.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Cool method.
Thanks to both of you!
Too bad it's 106° in my garage right now. It's gonna have to wait.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
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- 26,612
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I set each cylinder individually. And I set both valves for that cylinder at the same time. I set each piston at TDC-compression. My balancer is marked each 90 degrees. And I verify TDC before I start. Because I do it this way I don't have to go find a chart every time I do this. This method requires one to rotate the engine Two times, but extreme accuracy is not paramount.
Now I have read all other hoopla, and I understand it perfectly.But here is the deal. About the biggest ugliest cam you are ever gonna find in a street sbm is this bad-boy; 302/312/114, which just recently came up, here on FABO. I personally would rip this cam out in a heartbeat, cuz the 050 numbers were 230/237, so about the slowest ramps ever.
If you study this cam and work it out with an installed center angle of 110(4* advanced), then there is a period of time where the valves are sitting on the base circle at less than .006 valve lift that is equal to 188 crank degrees.And that is 99* for the intake and 89* for the exhaust. So there exists a pretty big window to hit. At TDC-compression, the intake has been closed to less than .006(most cams)for 99 degrees, and the exhaust will remain closed, to hit .006lift in about 89 degrees.So even if you imagine that the ramp starts some 6 degrees earlier, you still have an 83* exhaust window and even if you advance the cam another 10* for an ICL of Zero*, your window is still from TDC to 73*ATDC.
I like this method.
I have used this method on engines without indexed balancers by simply getting close when bringing up the piston, and finding approximate TDC with a screwdriver on top of the piston for the final few degrees. Like I said the target window is huge.
I hesitated to print this cuz some of you are wanting to laugh me out of the room again,and to those I say; Go do it your way, then try it this way. After you've done it once this way, and see the huge window , you will cut your adjustment time in half or less.I don't even stick the screwdriver in the hole anymore, preferring to put my thumb over the hole and verifying the compression is coming up, by the air pressure blowing my thumb off; as soon as the intake is closed, then so is the exhaust; and the window just about doubled.
The smaller the advertised duration, the bigger the window. For a typical 268 cam for instance, the window might be closer to 216 crank degrees. A blind man could set the valves.
.
Now I have read all other hoopla, and I understand it perfectly.But here is the deal. About the biggest ugliest cam you are ever gonna find in a street sbm is this bad-boy; 302/312/114, which just recently came up, here on FABO. I personally would rip this cam out in a heartbeat, cuz the 050 numbers were 230/237, so about the slowest ramps ever.
If you study this cam and work it out with an installed center angle of 110(4* advanced), then there is a period of time where the valves are sitting on the base circle at less than .006 valve lift that is equal to 188 crank degrees.And that is 99* for the intake and 89* for the exhaust. So there exists a pretty big window to hit. At TDC-compression, the intake has been closed to less than .006(most cams)for 99 degrees, and the exhaust will remain closed, to hit .006lift in about 89 degrees.So even if you imagine that the ramp starts some 6 degrees earlier, you still have an 83* exhaust window and even if you advance the cam another 10* for an ICL of Zero*, your window is still from TDC to 73*ATDC.
I like this method.
I have used this method on engines without indexed balancers by simply getting close when bringing up the piston, and finding approximate TDC with a screwdriver on top of the piston for the final few degrees. Like I said the target window is huge.
I hesitated to print this cuz some of you are wanting to laugh me out of the room again,and to those I say; Go do it your way, then try it this way. After you've done it once this way, and see the huge window , you will cut your adjustment time in half or less.I don't even stick the screwdriver in the hole anymore, preferring to put my thumb over the hole and verifying the compression is coming up, by the air pressure blowing my thumb off; as soon as the intake is closed, then so is the exhaust; and the window just about doubled.
The smaller the advertised duration, the bigger the window. For a typical 268 cam for instance, the window might be closer to 216 crank degrees. A blind man could set the valves.
.
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