hey im new to your site but i have been use alot of info i find on the web comes from hear!! my project is a 1972 Dart i stuffed a 440 in it and its not as easy as i thought mabe some of you can help. hears where i am to date mini tub, RMS 4 link, 8 3/4 3.55 sure grip,narrowed total 5", sub frame conectors, RMS front altercation coil overs and rack, wilwood disc, 727 with 2800 stall not sure if i got that rite??? OK now car was a AC car and i really want to keep AC any new info or ideas seems all i find is older info?? next what should i run for radiator size brand one i can just friken buy and instal, and whats a is best afordable belt and pulley system that works and looks close to stock i dont like the March look hear are some pic's so far
"NOT" Like a glove
- Thread starter Tur8o Joe
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LocuMob
Fluid Technician
Welcome to the site! That's a nice project you're in the middle of.
3406pk
Well-Known Member
Hey it's looking good. Should be nice ride. Stock pulleys are cheap and work good. If you use the Classic Air AC system they should have a belt/pulley system that works too.
come on guys need some help you can do better im running real low on motivation just give me something to get me sparked this is my first time for this stuff and i think all the grunt work is done but pulling it all together and the finnishing details are not my strong point and i know some of you have done this lots of times, ok i will get the stock pulleys and brackets,what about that radiator i dont want to guess you guys know the one that will work with little mods, and that 2800 stall for street and some strip whould hate to take out after install, sounds like i cant use stock AC thats in the car?
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
A lot of the guys go with the champion aluminum radiators. These are a bolt in fit.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
That's a "NO" on the factory A/C system they are a waste of time. Very heavy (~100 lbs.) and originally designed to run on R-12 Freon so converting to R-134a just makes them less efficient. Since you already have a 440 up front it would be wise to find ways to keep the weight down.
As far as the stall converter that depends on how good the quality is and whether or not it's designed to run "tight" when cruising around with light throttle which makes all the difference in how nice it is on the street. What brand is it?
As far as the stall converter that depends on how good the quality is and whether or not it's designed to run "tight" when cruising around with light throttle which makes all the difference in how nice it is on the street. What brand is it?
famous bob
mopar misfit
see you have raised port heads in the pic, look like victors or procomps. that`s going to make everything tighter -harder to do.I have an aftermarket front end under my 68 fastback, the throttle cable is a little problem by itself, the headers weren`t real bad w. no torsion bars, bought a set of used TTI`s off a member in wichitaw and straightened a couple of tubes out, they worked real well-just not a lot of room. hole in pass. fender for # 6 plug, # 5 is the worst, and it`s a ***** because of the steering column-right up against it all most. be careful, its easy to crossthread that one in the alum.head. the header install is bad enough for 1 guy (heavy when you 68 yrs.old w/ some physical hangovers from wrecks. the heater motor will have to 'go" w/ those heads,( put an aftermarket hotrod heater(small) in mine just for defrosters did u have dist. clearance issues? I had to do a lot of grinding on my procomp victors to get a f.a.st. 2.0 dist. in it, it`s a short one like a chevy. just drove it sat.for the first shakedown to see what needed attention. HANG IN THERE ,first time mine has seen daylight in 5 yrs. let me know if I can help w/ anything--------bob:coffee2:
famous bob
mopar misfit
just re-looked at your pics. see you still have the heater motor, must be over farther in the dart, or your using a 400 block-?----curious,my pass. side head covesr 1/3 of the heater motor hole-------bob
or your engine is setting lower than mine. the trans bolts were a ***** on mine too----bob
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Thats a good idea. Using a.compact heat/ac ,unit designed for a hot rod then you can mount it anywhere under the dash. Vintage air makes these. Plus you can buy the fittings, and hose as seperate items and route them as you want. They even sell the swaged crimps, and tool to crimp the ends. A sanyo radial compressor is all aluminum, and designed to run R134A . I believe they sell this compressor as well . I think vintage air may even have brackets to attach it to your 440.
Hope this helps
Matt
Hope this helps
Matt
srixon4406
TURBO TOAD
I have stock big block ac brackets if you need them pm if your interested
hey guys thanks for the reply the pic you see of the motor in car was just a first try i set the body down on it to see what was up and the blower is in the way big time motor needs to go up 4 " more i have ordered my classic Air today no other way to go!! hey is the OE AC worth anything i have it all and it was working when i started project if it is i will list it give me a idea how much? and yes it weights a ton and i sheed some blood taken it out what where they thinking!!!! cant belive i took so long on AC move OH $1400 reasons it never stops Next, going to drop motor in this week, saw some one on hear made a really cool AC hole cover and then ran all the stuff nicely through it I love this site! monkey see monkey do
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Yes monkey see monkey do. Lots of great ideas and many different ways to do the same thing. You can pick n choose what ideas you want to go with. I think FABO has been great in helping me with a lot of aspects to my project. Hopefully i have done things to my project that has inspired others as well.
That looks like its gonna be a really cool car when its done.
Matt
That looks like its gonna be a really cool car when its done.
Matt
DustedUBad
Member
I have a champion 4 core in my duster, I really like it, for especially for the money, I got mine off ebay.
cool thanks, 4 core cross flow?? and i think i can go with stock fit with the bigger core or should i use up all the room i got about 29" oh and the torque converter i got is made by TCI and its there breakaway 2400 to 2800 street and strip type I JUST DONT KNOW i feel like i should have gone BIGGER but dont want to fry the trany
do you think the headers will go in with the motor or as im lowering it down pic the best time to bolt them on and should i dare try it with traney i dont mind putting trany on after motor is in the mounts headers are TTI 2" they dont make a 1 7/8 for the dart and i thought 1 3/4 was to small for 500hp what im i infor feel like a plan would be best
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
It's probably pretty loose then as in the engine will rarely go below 2000 RPM unless it's idling/not under load. I had a similar converter in my Duster and took it out because the slippage annoyed me. I will probably put it back in when I swap to a bigger cam though it did work as intended.
As long as you put in an auxiliary transmission cooler (and deep pan) it doesn't really matter how high the stall is it won't fry the tranny. I don't think you need more though with a 440 it'll definitely stall closer to 2800 than 2400.
famous bob
mopar misfit
forgot: I use an 1 1/4" -two row-alum.radiator, 28x19 crossflow, they assured me it would keep 800h.p. cool . I don`t have 800, but so far so good. hasn`t been in okla summer heat yet.:coffee2:
any body think the complete OE AC is worth any thing and if so how much i was so mad about the no fit with my 440 swap i all most put it out side for the scrap guy!!
droping motor in today any thoughts best time to put headers on during or after or some time while lowering hoping to beat the system!!! trany or no trany im useing a good hoist and the car is on a lift. buy the way best $$$ spent car lift by far!!!!
droping motor in today any thoughts best time to put headers on during or after or some time while lowering hoping to beat the system!!! trany or no trany im useing a good hoist and the car is on a lift. buy the way best $$$ spent car lift by far!!!!
nitrojunkee
Well-Known Member
Very nice!
If I may ask, how did the install of the AlterKation go? I'm getting ready to put one in my '67, and would like to hear some feed back.
If I may ask, how did the install of the AlterKation go? I'm getting ready to put one in my '67, and would like to hear some feed back.
It went really good the only issue I had was with k member and frame bolts to line up I found this out when I was playing around with it and just put it up there and I'm glad I did because my plan was to bolt the Motor trans headers to the k member and lower the car down on it and with that bolt line issue I think it would have been a ***** lining it all up! So I instal the altercation first and used a come along to pull k member 1/8" to line up it worked well! It took me 2 days to install including brake kit, instructions where not bad and give u a good idea. Watching there install video will help up get a idea but is not complete. Bill at RMS is cool and helpful feel free to ask any thing else I like the kit a lot so far dropping motor in today we will see
roccodart440
Well-Known Member
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Your convertor stall is likely too low and the efficiency is questionable. I would get yourself a good custom convertor from COpe, dynamic, etc.
I run a generic aluminum in my current car but the last one had a bee cool in it which was the bees knees. Be sure to run a twin fan setup.
I run a generic aluminum in my current car but the last one had a bee cool in it which was the bees knees. Be sure to run a twin fan setup.
momoparman
MOISMYHOME
Use a billet specialties set up and you can have power steering, big alt, AC, water pump...
Radiator...use be cool for an e body if you want mega cooling. Its 31" long, 3 core with twin fans. A little trimming on each side of the radiator support opening to get more air flowing will make it cool a volcano. I rarely run both fans even with AC on and when I'm on the highway I don't run any fans. Temp is constant 180 degrees unless it's cooler outside then it's 160-170. Hottest it's ever been was 190 degrees with AC running on a 108 degree day.
http://www.billetspecialties.com/tr...g-block-chrsyler-/-hemi/trutrac/premium/hemi/
It will all fit and work just fine....just like my fat blu fish. I am running the RMS front end as well.
Good luck.
Mop
Radiator...use be cool for an e body if you want mega cooling. Its 31" long, 3 core with twin fans. A little trimming on each side of the radiator support opening to get more air flowing will make it cool a volcano. I rarely run both fans even with AC on and when I'm on the highway I don't run any fans. Temp is constant 180 degrees unless it's cooler outside then it's 160-170. Hottest it's ever been was 190 degrees with AC running on a 108 degree day.
http://www.billetspecialties.com/tr...g-block-chrsyler-/-hemi/trutrac/premium/hemi/
It will all fit and work just fine....just like my fat blu fish. I am running the RMS front end as well.
Good luck.
Mop
roccodart440
Well-Known Member
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Man that is clean...
srixon4406
TURBO TOAD
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