Notch my K member?

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stroker_valiant

stroker_valiant

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Well hello all! I am new here but have been reading alot of posts, and cant find a specific answer. I am in the process of assembling a 415 aluminum headed stroker for my 64 Valiant. I am running an 8 quart Moroso pan, and have heard alot of folks say the K member will need to be notched. The car is a factory 273, so it would have the V-8 member. does anybody have any info on notching, or a blueprint of exactly how much would need to come out?
 
here's the K member in question

DSC00594.JPG
 
Not sure about notching when using a Moroso pan,but on my '70 duster using a Milodon pan i needed to notch the k-member,by the way that Moroso pan tends to hang low thats one of the reason i went with the Milodon..
 
I notched my pan for a custom one....its a stock 340 pan deepend like crazy with a deep pickup, windage tray, etc...my k member was a v8 k member as well and i notched about 2-3 inches in (maybe even more) then i welded a strip of metal around where i cut to reinforce it...i have tons of room to even change the pan in the car without any problems at all...mind you, your k frame looks alot different than mine, so im not sure how much you would have to notch....i dont think by much though because like i said mine has given me alot more room than i need
 
i notched the one on a friends valiant with 2/4 box tubing and is stronger then the original one where the carved pieces are just square them off .:cheers:
 
If I were to cut out the marked area, and weld in good support do ya'll think it would be strong enough? Or would it compromise the structural integrity? The motor is expected to be around 550 horse.

DSC00594.JPG
 
stroker valiant said:
If I were to cut out the marked area, and weld in good support do yall think it would be strong enough? Or would it compromise the structural integrity? The motor is expected to be around 550 horse.
Click to expand...
yep that how is done i came forward a little more and lade a piece of square tubing in there. man how do you guys do that with your computer .this thing is still all new to me.
 
Here's how my K-member turned out notching for a milodon external oiling system on my current project. It's a b-body but you get the idea.

bills 005.jpg
 
:read2:
stroker_valiant said:
If I were to cut out the marked area, and weld in good support do ya'll think it would be strong enough? Or would it compromise the structural integrity? The motor is expected to be around 550 horse.
Click to expand...

that looks like it will do just fine (ya dont have much more to go anyways it looks like)...mine is the same way as convertriples
 
Cool, thanks for the input. I just needed a little backup before i start hackin up my stuff. I cant wait to deal with the header issue, I dont have any yet though.
 
stroker_valiant said:
Cool, thanks for the input. I just needed a little backup before i start hackin up my stuff. I cant wait to deal with the header issue, I dont have any yet though.
Click to expand...

They are tight on a 67 up A. I have seen a 65 Valiant with a 392 Hemi and headers. No room at all! I will likely contact Mazzolini about headers.I've done a ton o research into the subject and have found the most customer satisfaction to be with the old proparts semi fenderwell headers.They are now made by TTI for mazzolini racing and supposedly improved from the old version. However I dont know of anyone here using them.Im speaking of 67 and up A's of course.
 
I was thinkin of TTI non- fenderwell type, or possibly Dougs. they are both really expensive for the ones i want, but i've spared no expense on the motor, so I dont really wanna skimp out now.
 
Before you do anything, trial fit YOUR motor into YOUR CAR first, preferably with the trans attached and setting on the mounts you're going to use and check the actual clearance for your situation. Be sure to check how low the pan you intend to use hangs below the K frame. DON'T think for a minute that jacking up the front end (although the torsion bar adjustments make it easy) is going to always keep a deep pan that hangs lower than the K from scraping the ground. Sooner or later, even on a drag only car, it's going to hit the ground. Just how bad the result will be will depend on what you're doing with it at the time. Installing a substantial skid plate is going to be the only way of minimizing the damage.
You might consider instead running a crank scraper and windage tray with the shallowest pan you can get away with that clears the K frame (like some of the ones people have directed you to above). Just because you have an "arm in the basement" does not necessarily mean you need an ultra deep high capacity pan.
 
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