OEM paint loss in rain rails- is this normal?

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MRGTX

MRGTX

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Let me start by saying that I have always assumed that my car had factory paint on it....I have owned the car since I was in high school (in the 1990s) and this issue has been there as long as I have had the car but just recently, it occurred to me that I shouldn't take it for granted.

On each side of the car, the paint behind the bright work (inside the "rain gutters") has worn away, revealing a white surface. I was told many years ago that this was primer or some other material that was used in the original manufacturing...

Has anyone else seen this? It would be an awfully odd application of bondo if that was the case.

Sorry for the crappy pic... the rest of the paint on the car (aside from needing a wash/wax) is in decent "20 footer" condition. Fortunately, you can't see this unless you're close to the car, looking down. :)

Thanks for any input!
 

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That is the factory caulking, and the paint does come of of it before anywhere else it seems.
Mine is coming away from the metal at the edges so I have to do something with it.
I asked on here if removing the caulking and using POR15 in the seams and then painting it would be reasonable and most everyone told me that it won't work because it's a seam and it would crack the POR and the paint then it would leak.
Well, I tried it anyway about 6 monthes ago in a spot about a foot long close to the top and it has not cracked at all. (not the POR or the white enamel either one) so I may continue it on the rest of the rail.
 
TrailBeast said:
That is the factory caulking, and the paint does come of of it before anywhere else it seems.
Mine is coming away from the metal at the edges so I have to do something with it.
I asked on here if removing the caulking and using POR15 in the seams and then painting it would be reasonable and most everyone told me that it won't work because it's a seam and it would crack the POR and the paint then it would leak.
Well, I tried it anyway about 6 monthes ago in a spot about a foot long close to the top and it has not cracked at all. (not the POR or the white enamel either one) so I may continue it on the rest of the rail.
Click to expand...

I don't see how the por 15 could crack there, unless your cars rusted in two at the floorboards and rocker panels it's not gonna flex.
 
Thanks, guys!
I feel a bit better about that. :D

I'm not planning on painting the car until I absolutely have to...but knowing that this is not evidence of a repair is really what I was hoping to learn.

Good to know that the POR15 is holding up. How do people usually repair this area for a restoration?
 
Yup, just like putty or caulking around your home windows, sooner or later it's going to crack and when it does any paint on it will go too. Nothing lasts forever... There's a lot of welds there where the drip edge and the roof skin meet. Regardless of the POR 15, I'd want seam sealer back over that area again.
 
no poseur said:
I don't see how the por 15 could crack there, unless your cars rusted in two at the floorboards and rocker panels it's not gonna flex.
Click to expand...

That is the reasoning I used, and the rust encapsulator is tough as hell.
I figured if the seam sealer tends to come away from the body metal anyway, how could it be that the POR15 that flows down into the seam be a bad thing.
 
That factory seam sealer lasted for 40 years, but you are willing to accept a 6 month test with POR 15? Im a professional. I do this stuff for a living.

Seam sealer goes there, not POR 15.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
That factory seam sealer lasted for 40 years, but you are willing to accept a 6 month test with POR 15? Im a professional. I do this stuff for a living.

Seam sealer goes there, not POR 15.
Click to expand...

Cool, so you think it would be a good idea to remove the intake and carb and headers and tach and stereo and seats and guages and poly bushings and and and?
They did'nt put those on the original car either. :-D

I aint no noob, and it's ok if you disagree about what I do with my own car.
 
I was worried about that on my Coronet.

I poured "Ospho" in the rails (it's thin and flows), let it dry, then painted the roof.

The plan was a temporary fix to get the roof painted (was burnt off and starting to surface rust), until I could paint the whole car.

That was six years ago, and it's still fine.
 
while I don't doubt the POR or Ospho is holding up. I doubt either "seal" that seam.
the effects might not be seen on the outside but I question how much moisture is getting in.
 
What ever you do any rust should be removed.
I'd suggest polyurethane for a sealant.
Paint is temporary. Rust is forever, and never sleeps.
 
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