off topic 1947 jeep willies truck

[triggerjay]

I am working on a 1947 jeep willys truck for a neighbor, and we are having electrical problems with it. I have looked all over the net for a print on the electrical system with no luck. Does anyone happen to know where to find one? We charged the battery up, and tried to start it,(nothing happened) and the negative terminal at the battery started smoking. when I removed the battery cable, I heard a "click" from the starter area. The ammeter shows no voltage, no lights work. The only thing I got it to do was click once when I disconnected the battery. I removed the battery, and checked continuity between cables, and there was none. So I do know there is not a short with they key in the off position. If the battery was no good, the cable would not have smoked. I checked voltage at the battery and it reads 6 volts. I am thinking about removing the starter from the engine, and checking to see if it will turn with power applied. I know this is off topic, but since I am a regular here, I thought I would ask... Anyone have any ideas? from what I can gather, 1947 was the first year jeep produced a truck, and they only made like 2500 of them. This jeep is VERY solid, and it would be nice to get this rare vehicle back on the road. any help would be appreciated.

Triggerjay

 

[triggerjay]

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[GTGrinly]

How about the block to body ground?

 

[OUTLAW]

I will check with a buddy who has restored 5 or 6 of the old military willy's . Is this a positive ground vehicle? some were in the early years. First as stated chek ground from engine to frame and frame to battery also check the starter relay on the firewall . The click may have been the starter drive was stuck in flywheel too

 

[triggerjay]

Not sure if it is a positive ground or not. I will be back over there tomorrow, and will look. I will also check all the grounding and starter sol.

Triggerjay

 

[GTGrinly]

The positive ground theory just occured to me also!

 

[triggerjay]

now, if it is positive ground, and the negative is connected to ground instead, what kind of problems/symptoms should I see?

Triggerjay

 

[GTGrinly]

I would think what you discribe is pretty much what you would see...no lights, heating of the wiring, possible damage to the regulator, starter solenoid...maybe not though, I'm sure I've hooked up one or two backwards before and don't remember problems. Let us know...

 

[triggerjay]

A fresh battery did the trick. I have not got it to start yet, but it turns over now, and the lights work. Thanks guys!

Triggerjay

 

[C130 Chief]

Sounds like the starter contactor was stuck. If it is original 6v, it should be foot actuated on top of the starter. If a later starter has been fitted, it will have a remote solenoid. Standard diagnostics apply; to confirm a static current drain connect a voltmeter between the battery post and the terminal. There should be no indication of voltage with the lights and ignition switched off.

If you are converting to 12v all parts from the later 4 cylinder Jeeps (57 - 71) should bolt on.

 

[krabysniper]

Try posting to these boards in the future if ya need help. Excellent bunch, and more info then you'll ever be able to absorb, I gaurantee it. Jeepster-American Jeepster Club or this one Short Wheelbase Jeeps

 

[triggerjay]

Got it to start today. The start button is in fact foot actuated. Man, theres alot of gizmos on the dash I am not familiar with. I had to ask the owner what alot of them were. The choke is all the way across the dash on the passenger side, by the glove box. There is also a throttle pull out knob which is froze up on the drivers side. The shift pattern is wierd. It is a 3 on the tree, with 4 wheel drive stuff on the floor. Now comes the fun part. I get to restore the entire brake system. The owner of the jeep has owned it over 40 years. He just wanted to make sure it would still run before he shelled out the money in brakes. He said it ran when he parked it about 2 years ago, when the brakes failed. He also said he is pretty sure the master cylinder was replaced shortly before the brakes went out,... so Im thinking a wheel cylinder leakage issue, or possibly a rusted or rotted brake line/hose. He is a wealthy man, and says he will compensate me well. I was thinking of flat rating him for about $300.00. I figure I will have 15 to 20 hours involved. He will be purchasing all parts needed. I figure I could do this, and it will pay for the last part needed to finish the duster. (the driveshaft). seems the 727 is about 2" longer then the a904 we had in it, so I need a 2" shorter driveshaft. Anyways, I hate to rattle on, so I will end this one here. Thanks again!

Triggerjay

 

[triggerjay]

I would, but on a few other boards I have tried to post on, no one is really willing to talk to you unless you have a few posts under your belt on their forum. Don't know why. I figured I would post it here because of the help I have gotten on previous issues regarding the old mopar. LOVE THIS BOARD!

Triggerjay