Oil additive ?

[Infiniti Dave]

Completed my 360 build and installation. Purchased several quarts of Lucas "Break in Oil ". Also have a bottle of "Break in Additive ". For first start up is there any such thing as " too much"? The operative chemical I believe is Zinc, but how much is too much ?

 

[Murray]

IMO- one or the other.

 

[33IMP]

Yes, Too much is too much.
Just use the break-in oil, that's what it's for.
Save the additive for when you want to use regular oil.
You won't need special zinc added oil... until you run out of additive.

 

[4spdragtop]

Don't add zinc to an already zinc loaded breakin oil. Zinc additive is for use after breakin oil is swapped out.

 

[Infiniti Dave]

Thanks to everyone who replied. Sound advice is always appreciated !!!

 

[413]

Don't use zinc additives ever.

Buy the right oil for the camshaft.

How do you know your additive will mix with the modern shelf oil and do what the bottle says it will? You dont!

 

[middleagecrisis]

Too much Zinc has the opposite effect and will cause excessive wear. I read this in an Oil/Zinc study, but don't have it, unfortunately. Use break in oil, good cam assembly lube (paste not liquid) on the lobes. No idle time and above 2K rpm for the first twenty minutes and you should be good.

 

[Infiniti Dave]

Thank you everyone again for all the usefull advice. Had it running this afternoon on "Break in Oil" with no additive. Other than a couple of coolant hose weeps , all went well. Sounds great and the leaks are minor so I can deal with them soon.

 

[moparmark65]

Driven break in oil is my preference! Its premium crude with zinc. Then use a high zinc oil instead of an additive! I use lucas hotrod oil, but there a several good ones!

 

[fishmens67]

Valvoline VR1 is you need, don't need no stink'n special break-in oil.
Assembly lube and camshaft lube will mix with any oil within the matter of seconds, I would be more concerned what was used for assembly.

 

[moparmark65]

Valvoline VR1 is you need, don't need no stink'n special break-in oil.
Assembly lube and camshaft lube will mix with any oil within the matter of seconds, I would be more concerned what was used for assembly.

I like the “ stinkin” Driven oil . But thanks for your 2 cents!

 

[fishmens67]

I like the “ stinkin” Driven oil . But thanks for your 2 cents!

You're welcome.
What did you use for assembly, Driven?

 

[moparmark65]

Other than cam lobes yes. Oil in a squirt can.. assembly lube on the cam and bottom of lifters otherwise Driven oil!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I also like Permatex Ultra Slick assembly loob. It's good stuff.

 

[moparmark65]

Its what i use for cam and lifter prelube.. for pistons, cylinders , side of lifters, crank bearings, i use what ever break in oil im going to use.

 

[harrisonm]

I really like Royal Purple assembly lube.

 

[fishmens67]

I've been using Lubriplate # 105 since the late 70's for assembly.
Valvoline racing oil exclusively for nearly 50 years, with zero cam or bearing failure, that's with several dozen engines built during that time period.
We usually drain the oil after the second heat cycle.

 

[RLF Cuda]

I made Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphate (ZDDP and other acronyms) when I first joined Chevron's additive division in 1981. There are several types of ZDDP based on the alcohol group that makes up the hydrocarbon part of the additive. I can discuss this further if anyone is interested. ZDDP is a sacrificial additive that is depleted with age and is one major reason for changing oils (the more frequently, the better). But is also works by corroding the lifter and lobe surfaces forming Iron Sulfides and Phosphates that prevent destructive metal-to-metal contact of surface asperities.

Wear occurs when the points of the asperities microweld to each other pilling apart the surface. ZDDP forms a film of sulfides and phosphates that do not microweld slowing down (considerably!) the normal wear process. But excessive amounts of additive are detrimental to this process causing faster wear, but still slower than if too little ZDDP is present.
As this additive is part of an overall additive package used to make finished engine oil, it is better to trust the oil formulator and company marketing the oil than it is to haphazardly using a top treatment additive. Yes, a ZDDP additive can help a modern oil protect slider follower camshafts from wear, but how do you know that what you added isn't causing other issues due to incompatibility with the existing additives in the oil. So I recommend using a name brand oil formulated for older engines over top-treating a product that may not be formulated for slider follower camshafts.

 

[mopowers]

So I recommend using a name brand oil formulated for older engines over top-treating a product that may not be formulated for slider follower camshafts.

What oil do you use?

 

[RLF Cuda]

Here is a good article on ZDDP. Quadruple effect: How exactly does ZDDP work? - LEARN OIL ANALYSIS
They show making ZDDP with methanol, but that doesn't work. The best ZDDP is made from isopropyl alcohol (common rubbing alcohol) but that too isn't ideal as it is a solid. Mixing isopropyl and isobutyl (one carbon longer) makes a ZDDP that is highly active and effective as an antiwear agent. But other ZDDP's such as 2-ethyl-hexyl alcohol ZDDP make good antiwear and excellent oxidation inhibitor formulas. A balance based on engine testing is used in commercial oil formulas.
Yes, I know, I get too technical at times!

 

[RLF Cuda]

For years I have used Delo 400 Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil as I knew the formula having worked on it for 8 years. With new changes in formulas and my distance from formulating oils now (semi-retired), I may just recommend products like Valvoline Racing Oil and many other major brands that back up their products. Pick one that meets your needs, cost, availability, trust, etc., and stick with it.

 

[Dartsun]

Walmart sells jugs of VR1 it's all I use in the old cars. What I use always break in or not.

 

[moparmark65]

I made Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphate (ZDDP and other acronyms) when I first joined Chevron's additive division in 1981. There are several types of ZDDP based on the alcohol group that makes up the hydrocarbon part of the additive. I can discuss this further if anyone is interested. ZDDP is a sacrificial additive that is depleted with age and is one major reason for changing oils (the more frequently, the better). But is also works by corroding the lifter and lobe surfaces forming Iron Sulfides and Phosphates that prevent destructive metal-to-metal contact of surface asperities.

View attachment 1716440474

Wear occurs when the points of the asperities microweld to each other pilling apart the surface. ZDDP forms a film of sulfides and phosphates that do not microweld slowing down (considerably!) the normal wear process. But excessive amounts of additive are detrimental to this process causing faster wear, but still slower than if too little ZDDP is present.
As this additive is part of an overall additive package used to make finished engine oil, it is better to trust the oil formulator and company marketing the oil than it is to haphazardly using a top treatment additive. Yes, a ZDDP additive can help a modern oil protect slider follower camshafts from wear, but how do you know that what you added isn't causing other issues due to incompatibility with the existing additives in the oil. So I recommend using a name brand oil formulated for older engines over top-treating a product that may not be formulated for slider follower camshafts.

My Dad was a standard oil distributor in the seventies and eighties, i worked the warehouse as a kid. They had Delo, 100,200,300,and 400 before dropping the first three, also Chevron supreme motor oil, and Custom 10/40. A lot of people dont/ didnt realize that Delo stood for diesel engine lubricating oil! They had great products back then. We were also distributors for Baldwin filters.

 

[RLF Cuda]

MoparMark65, I went to Oregon, Washington and BC many times to support DELO 400 sales. The Pacific Northwest has some great people. And when I drove from SoCal to BC in 1976, I saw a lot more Barracuda's than I ever saw in SoCal. The original engine to my '68 FS FB ended up in WA (Vashion Island) 40 years after I gave it to a friend to put in his '67 Barracuda Convertable. That never happened and he let me have the engine back. It was actually in great shape and only needed new gaskets and a cleaning to be useable. Enjoy Sakgit!

 

[moparmark65]

MoparMark65, I went to Oregon, Washington and BC many times to support DELO 400 sales. The Pacific Northwest has some great people. And when I drove from SoCal to BC in 1976, I saw a lot more Barracuda's than I ever saw in SoCal. The original engine to my '68 FS FB ended up in WA (Vashion Island) 40 years after I gave it to a friend to put in his '67 Barracuda Convertable. That never happened and he let me have the engine back. It was actually in great shape and only needed new gaskets and a cleaning to be useable. Enjoy Sakgit!

Small world, my Dad was the distributor in Monroe and Everett, serving all of snohomish county and up to the summit of Stevens pass! Also I cant tell you how many buckets of aluminum Asbestos roof coating I brushed on mobile homes when I was 12-14 yrs old!