Oil change after break in???

[Kent mosby]

How soon after breaking in the 512 stroker do you change oil? ASAP, 1 hour, 5 hours? What oil weight, brand, type is recommended. The motor has a moderate Flat tappet cam, High volume oil pump that is giving 75 psi at 1500 rpms.

We are removing the transmission to see where our leak is tonight. I used Fluorescent dye and it is either the rear main or at the rear pan gasket. I would like to keep the Dye/oil in until we get the leak fixed and then change the oil. The motor is on a run stand and will not go into a car without an oil change

 

[Jadaharabi]

Is that 75 psi at 1500 rpm hot or cold?

 

[Kent mosby]

Well, I just checked my last video when we were starting to set the idle and it was at 48psi at 1200rpm at 190 degrees. I may be wrong in my first post but I know that it maxes out at 75 when were checking the timing and we were at 3500 rpm

 

[Frank Mopar]

Oil weight is dictated by bearing clearance.

#8---Bearing Clearance and Oil Viscosity

 

[supertruck]

Changing oil after break in - my builder, CAMS racing engines in Gloucester, VA, told me not to change it immediately after the break in. Said to get a load on the engine, even if only running it through the gears while sitting on jack stands. He says leaving in the original oil while loading the engine through a few cycles will help out in the long run. My engine is a built 340.

 

[brian6pac]

Kent, you need to change the oil ASAP, I change it right after the break in run when it is hot, You need to get all the metal out from the rings breaking in. Then after the oil change while it is hot I will give it a hour run in and make sure everything is good and there is no problem and I don't let it run slow till after the 1 hr run in 1200 RPM min, It might not be needed but it is just the way I was taught back in the day and I have never had a cam problem. make sure you use a oil with ZDDP

 

[RustyRatRod]

I change immediately after break in and about 1000 miles after that and then regular oil change intervals. How much does a new engine cost again?

 

[Syleng1]

Going thru this myself right now.
1) there is no modern “flat tappet cam.” That is 100 year old technology. But with that said use an oil with lots of zinc. I like Rotella T 1300 ppm of zinc. Joe Gibbs oil is also good but really expensive. Or a good oil and zinc additive.
2) cam break in procedure after the 20mins break in then change oil and filter. Carefully cut open filter and check for materials like cam bearing lead.
3) drive car for 500 miles to seal rings (more or less dependent on manufacture.
Parts recommendations.)
3) as you drive and engine “loosens up” you need to keep resetting idle. They tend to idle faster as they break in. I’m at 300 miles and I’ve lowered my idle 3 times now.
4) change oil and filter at 500 miles. AgIn check filter for debris.
5) during this process keep an eye on coolant and ps levels. Next change is another 1000miles then what ever you want- good to go.

This is a good guide. Modify as needed. I’m not an expert but have built and driven and raced over 25 long lasting MoPar engines - in my life and I’m 50.
Good luck- Joe

 

[Alaskan_TA]

Go with what your engine builder says.

If the break in oil is changed too soon, the rings may not seat.

 

[brian6pac]

Going thru this myself right now.
1) there is no modern “flat tappet cam.” That is 100 year old technology. But with that said use an oil with lots of zinc. I like Rotella T 1300 ppm of zinc. Joe Gibbs oil is also good but really expensive. Or a good oil and zinc additive.
2) cam break in procedure after the 20mins break in then change oil and filter. Carefully cut open filter and check for materials like cam bearing lead.
3) drive car for 500 miles to seal rings (more or less dependent on manufacture.
Parts recommendations.)
3) as you drive and engine “loosens up” you need to keep resetting idle. They tend to idle faster as they break in. I’m at 300 miles and I’ve lowered my idle 3 times now.
4) change oil and filter at 500 miles. AgIn check filter for debris.
5) during this process keep an eye on coolant and ps levels. Next change is another 1000miles then what ever you want- good to go.

This is a good guide. Modify as needed. I’m not an expert but have built and driven and raced over 25 long lasting MoPar engines - in my life and I’m 50.
Good luck- Joe

The diesel oils have changed a lot in the last couple years, they no longer post the zinc PPM and they wont tell you it's proprietary. The EPA is making them remove the high levels of zinc and now that the diesels have a sort of catalytic convertor the zinc plugs it up and keeps it from working, I also used diesel oil but not any more.

Moly rings will break in fast, very fast. I have never had a problem with oil passing or any blow by breaking them in this way.

 

[rustycowll69]

I agree with cutting the filter open and checking closely for "debris."

 

[oldkimmer]

I change oil after the initial run in. Then after 100 miles, then 200 miles then after 500 miles, then after 1000 miles, then every 1000 after that. Molly rings seat almost instantly. Kim

 

[Krooser]

Diesel oil no longer contains those high zinc levels...and modern piston rings are made so they seat after a few hard pulls on a Dyno or road test. No more 1000 mile break-in period.

I believe the comment about "modern" flat tappet cams referred to modern grinds not design. Your average $100,000 top fuel engine is as obsolete of a design as your 60 year old roller tappet design.