Oil return

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player1up

player1up

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What is everyone doing for their oil return?
I plan on some sort of fitting to the oil pan on my slant, but most of the stuff I've seen involves welded fittings or sheet metal screws with a gasket or epoxy...

Some of the kits have a 2 bolt flange with an AN fitting, but what goes on the back? ( I assume I'd weld nuts on the inside of the pan )

Seems like such a simple thing but this is for my daily driver and if I'm pulling the pan, dropping center link, jacking the engine, etc to install said part, I'm only doing it once and want to have a good idea of what my options are.
 
I don't know if this will work for you, but I thought I'd throw it out there. When I turbo'd my Ramcharger I didn't feel like pulling the oil pan so I returned the oil though the fuel pump block-off plate. Of course I was running an electric pump and the turbo was in the right spot to do so, but it worked with no issues for 2 years until I sold it for my current project.

Oh, and I just welded a nut on the backside of the plate.
 
On early 80's police cars with A engines and aux. oil coolers , Chrysler used the fuel pump cavity. 1 of the fuel pump mouting bolts was hollow and had a threaded fitting in the bolt head for the oil return line to attach to.
 
interesting ideas, but I'm sure that the turbo housing oil drain will sit even with or below the fuel pump. Just seems like a lot of work just to install the oil return... oh well, if it were easy, everyone would do it :lol:
 
On a slant six, if the turbo is mounted high enough, it is possible to drill and tap the block itself, right next to the dipstick.
 
Matt, I had thought about that ( kind of dismissed the thought ) but I've never had a slant open before and didn't know what kind of clearance I would have to work with, AND since I'm keeping the a/c compressor, the turbo will sit low and tight....gonna be like working on a new car before I'm done, 10lbs of crap in a 5lb bag... I did pick up a 2 bolt plate/tube type fitting over the weekend, and have a threaded fitting as well, so I have options when I finally get to do it, and I've got to get the oil pan off some time in the next couple of weeks to seal it up anyway.
 
I had been thinking about drilling and tapping a pipe-thread fitting into the aluminum timing chain cover on my small block, but a hollow fuel pump bolt or fitting in a block off plate sounds MUCH easier!
 
A hollow fuel pump bolt is NOWHERE large enough to use for a turbo drain fitting. Those are either 5/16" or 3/8" bolts, and there still has to be some meat for the threads, so you're looking at a 3/16"-1/4" hole at most.

The typical rule for a drain fitting is that it should be 1/2-5/8", although a small turbo might get by a little smaller.

If it works for the application, a bulkhead fitting into a fuelpump blockoff plate is the easiest method.
 
I know when you buy a Procharger they recommend using a punch to put a hole in the pan and then screw a fitting into it. You might want to look at Procharger's website and use their fitting. I would pull the pan put an AN fitting, A little more work but less chance of debri in the engine.
 
turbodart68 said:
I know when you buy a Procharger they recommend using a punch to put a hole in the pan and then screw a fitting into it. You might want to look at Procharger's website and use their fitting. I would pull the pan put an AN fitting, A little more work but less chance of debri in the engine.
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This is what I did.........weld in bungs

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