One last Cam question

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64drtGt

Slant Six Lunatic
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I have one last cam question. I had originally wanted to run a whiplash cam but decided it was out of my budget and decided on having my cam reground. Which of these specs would you guys recommend?

My engine is a stock magnum with headers, holley carb, 4 speed, and for the time being 3.23 gears but I am going to swap out my 4.10 set later. Its going in a truck but it wont be using for any series towing or work. I just want it to run pretty good around town and sound great doing it.

This was the info I got from them so far.
1458
206/212 @ .050", 258/264 adv, .480"/.488' lift(1.5:1 rocker)

#1429

210/214 @ .050", 260/264 adv, .474"/.474" lift

#1161

210/215 @ .050", 266/270 adv, .498"/.498" lift

These profiles are as close as I can come to the whiplash specs. I can put these on the 107 lobe sep if that is what you really want. If you are using a computer engine they will probably not work with the 107 sep. Most of the factory cams have a 114 to 115 sep. It will be difficult to change the sep to 107 using one of these cores with out making the lobe diameter pretty small. There are a couple that have 110 sep which could be changed. Also the original roller cams are made from cast steel which is not very durable. If you have a cam core that we can change the cost is $117. We can make a new one for $325.

Thanks
 
Are you replacing valve springs? Non stock,I hope ! Recommend the Hughes 1110 springs ,matching retainers.A little mo'bucks, fits sweetly,by personal experience. With the 4.10's ,the 210/215 grind absolutely! Expect about 12 to 15 vac @ idle ,and a stock 340 -ish idle.You WILL NEED to measure pushrod length,on a stock core regrind.Sounds nice!
 
Well, if you have a stock Magnum you have a rocker with a 1.6 ratio. So the lift numbers will be a little higher then the 1.5 numbers. I would ask him what he thinks would work best in your truck, not tie him into a design that might not be very good. I never understood choosing a cam for sound, it's a funny concept. Also, get ask him what springs you need to match the cam.
 
Are all the cams listed with a 1.5 rocker or just the first? I would stay in the 110/112 lsa range considering the application and would also like a little more split toward the exhaust timing to help out the stock heads.
 
Ricky,can't get more that a 2 degree lsa swap on any core.(I wish!) As much as you hate that eyesore pushrod pinch, still runs a aggressive exhaust port (74/78 ish?). Just post what I personally did on jy 5.9 [email protected] 114 l.c.284 ad duration.Timing @16 initial ,34 @3000,idled like a stock 340 cam.21 " of vacuum in drive.
 
FWIW, stock head Magnum head flow peaks at .470-.480 lift........
 
Abodybomber said:
Ricky,can't get more that a 2 degree lsa swap on any core.(I wish!) As much as you hate that eyesore pushrod pinch, still runs a aggressive exhaust port (74/78 ish?). Just post what I personally did on jy 5.9 [email protected] 114 l.c.284 ad duration.Timing @16 initial ,34 @3000,idled like a stock 340 cam.21 " of vacuum in drive.
Click to expand...

Wow, that's cool. That's a pretty serious cam for those street manners. I really need to enlighten myself on these Magnums with rollers.......And yes, i do hate the pinch....lol. But hey, if it works....:D.
 
I am planning on running the Hughes springs and retainers unless they recommend something else. I would like to run the whiplash cam because i had heard good things about them but 750 bucks for a cam swap vs 350ish makes it doable vs not doable.

As to measuring push rod length how do I do that? I am new to engines and am wanting to learn the right way to do things.
 
While ordering the spring/ retainer outfit.,find yourself a chebby/m.p. adjustable pushrod. Looking for .020 to .040 preload,order oil through pushrods to match.
 
Abodybomber said:
While ordering the spring/ retainer outfit.,find yourself a chebby/m.p. adjustable pushrod. Looking for .020 to .040 preload,order oil through pushrods to match.
Click to expand...


Would these work? http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...aHJvZHM=&level2=T2lsIFRocm91Z2g=&partid=23846

Or should/could I just either have hughes send me the measuring tool or see if my local engine builder can do it for me and order a set of set length ones? Because honestly by the time I spend 175 bucks on a set of pushrods I could just wait and scrounge up another 100 bucks and buy the whiplash cam to begin with and not have to change pushrods.

Or if I stayed at the stock LSA and only had him change the lift/duration wouldnt the cam lobes be the same size in theory allowing the use of the factory pushrods? I'm on a tight budget but dont want to make a mistake I will regret once I get the engine in.
 
Yes on the account of ordering a new cam core,yes it's worth it. And exactly what I did,as well. And it works great. Didn't know if you have the coin,well worth it.
 
Ken at oregon just told me he had a 110 LSA core for $50 plus the $117 regrinding fee so I may go that rout with the grind you recommended.
 
Man,I just called them last week ,about a bigger re-grind! Didn't even mention having narrow lobe center cores.Thanks for the info!:cheers:
 
Back in the day, my 340, and the wife's 340 ran old purple [email protected], .484. Never a problem, except a Holley needed the 1/8" holes drilled, and a 4.5 power valve, and you had to take them out on the interstate, and blow the carbon out, once a week.
 
Get a bigger cam, all that will happen, once the carb/ignition is right, it will load up, putting around. A woman, back in the day, used to buy gas, and get a tune up from the private owned gas station I worked at. It was just usually loaded up, from never seeing more than 35 mph. How much I miss taking her 67 GTX 428 hemi out on the interstate, and " tuning it up". Carboned up.
 
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