One wire alternator?
- Thread starter Sublime69
- Start date
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dgc333
Well-Known Member
I am assuming you are talking about the GM style alternator with the regulator integrated into the alternator it self.
The only real advantage is you get to eliminate the external voltage regulator and the associated wiring.
Typically these alternators have a much higher output than the stock alternator which will require you to use larger wire between the alternator and the battery. This will also normally mean that the stock amp gauge will need to be elminated from the circuitry.
The only real advantage is you get to eliminate the external voltage regulator and the associated wiring.
Typically these alternators have a much higher output than the stock alternator which will require you to use larger wire between the alternator and the battery. This will also normally mean that the stock amp gauge will need to be elminated from the circuitry.
dgc333 said:
excatly, i am in the process of deleating the amp meter and rewiring my charging system and i was going off of this.http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml but it looks like the digram is for a one wire alt.. so i am thinking about just using a one wire alt and be done with it.
Buschi340
Well-Known Member
I use a modern Bosch alternator out of a also modern BMW. Of course one wire. The regulator is on the back screwed in together with the brushes. you can change them in 1 minute... and the alternators are easy to find on every yard here in germany :wink: . I use the Bosch also in my Chevy daily... works fine and easy swap too...
Michael
Michael
dgc333
Well-Known Member
The article at madelectrical is just talking about by-passing the amp gauge. Since you do not touch the regulator circuitry it not shown.
You can certanly go with an internal regulator alternator but you can keep what you have if your goal is to elminate all the potential bad connections in the stock routing.
In 1970 mopar changed the design of the charging system to make it work better at low rpm's (ie the dimming head lights at idle). They went to an alternator with two field connections and switched from the mechanical points type voltage regualtor to a soild state regulator. Also, the aftermarket voltage regulators you purchase now for you 69 and older systems are solid state (cheaper to make and work better to boot).
This gives you a couple of more options.
Cheapest, go to Autozone and just get a replacement voltage regualtor for your 69. It should be a Wells VR706 and the cost about $10. They work well and it's cheap.
The next easist route is to upgrade to the 70 or newer system. This will require running one wire from switched 12 volts to the new style alternator and a trip to the junk yard to cut the voltage regulator connector off a doner 70 or new mopar. Of crouse you will need to purchase an alternator and new style voltage regualtor but these parts are cheap (less than $50) compared to some of the one wire options. Plus they are available every where and bolt directly in with no messing with brackets or pulleys.
The harness gets spliced onto the exisiting voltage regulator wires (blue to blue green to green) Also run another wire to the alternator from the blue/blue splice. put a female blade connector on the wire then hook them to the two field terminals. Doesn't make a diference whic to which.
You can certanly go with an internal regulator alternator but you can keep what you have if your goal is to elminate all the potential bad connections in the stock routing.
In 1970 mopar changed the design of the charging system to make it work better at low rpm's (ie the dimming head lights at idle). They went to an alternator with two field connections and switched from the mechanical points type voltage regualtor to a soild state regulator. Also, the aftermarket voltage regulators you purchase now for you 69 and older systems are solid state (cheaper to make and work better to boot).
This gives you a couple of more options.
Cheapest, go to Autozone and just get a replacement voltage regualtor for your 69. It should be a Wells VR706 and the cost about $10. They work well and it's cheap.
The next easist route is to upgrade to the 70 or newer system. This will require running one wire from switched 12 volts to the new style alternator and a trip to the junk yard to cut the voltage regulator connector off a doner 70 or new mopar. Of crouse you will need to purchase an alternator and new style voltage regualtor but these parts are cheap (less than $50) compared to some of the one wire options. Plus they are available every where and bolt directly in with no messing with brackets or pulleys.
The harness gets spliced onto the exisiting voltage regulator wires (blue to blue green to green) Also run another wire to the alternator from the blue/blue splice. put a female blade connector on the wire then hook them to the two field terminals. Doesn't make a diference whic to which.
AdamR
Big Member
Theres some electrical stuff in the Tech arcives. Links to the Ammeter by pass and a link to adding relays to your head lights.
rabius75
Well-Known Member
im gonna do both of those pretty soon... as for the new solid state voltage regulator, i think its like, $12, but i get my parts from advance autoparts. the people there (at my local store) are more mechanically inclined so to speak. at autozone its like they just hired a body to retrieve the parts. and they cant give you advice...
has anybody noticed i seem to start with a related post, then get off topic?.....
has anybody noticed i seem to start with a related post, then get off topic?.....
rabius75 said:
Ah, don't worry about that, I do it all the time. I'm surprised Adam hasn't locked me out of here yet for doing that. ;-)
I'm the walkin' dude, I can see all the world!
Twist your minds with fear, I'm the man with the power.
Among the living, follow me or die!
myself and a friend of mine both bought a gm style 1-wire alt from the local rebuilders---$35 each. my car isnt running yet but his is (69gtx). i fabbed up a bracket and wired his car---its easy---one 10 gauge wire from the alt post to the pos battery post---cant get any easier. you can remove just about everything that had to do with the charging system from stock.
--chad
--chad
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