Opinion wanted...garage hoist hookup...

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moparfreak77

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I want to know what you guys think about this. I have this 1/4" plate steel to come down off of 3 - 2"x10"'s in my attic into the garage. The bolts I want to use are 3/8" - 6" long. Do you guys think the 4 holes will weaken the 2"x10"'s to much? Or do you think the bolts will be strong enough? I want to be able to pull a motor (and tranny?) with it. How much do you think the beam is good for? It is 14' long and it sits on top off the garage walls. thanks

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I haven't looked up the engineering on this, but I can tell you that three two by twelves are incredibly strong especially if they are Doug fir. Most things are only as strong as their weakest link, and in this setup it could be the bolt you hook the chain on. If you forget a moter mount bolt, you will probably lift the whole car. Also if you are concerned about the span of the two bys, you can put temporary columns on either side or at each end of the of the car depending on which way the beam runs. This will shorten the span and make it even stronger, and help to eliminate the flex. Even just one support two or three or four feet from the wall would help exponentially.
 
you have two plates with four bolts per plate.

that is .25 x.375 for .09375 square inches x 4 bolts per plate is .09375 x4 = 0.375 square inches.
a grade 5 bolt has a single shear strength of 8280 lbs per square inch
that times .375 per plate = 3105 lbs of load at shear per plate
or 6210 lbs load total.

you should be fine. but i wouldn't test it pulling my prize motor from my prize hotrod.

i would recommend you speak to a contractor but i expect the beams would be ok as well.

for comparison many people use just two 3/8 bolts, one in each head when lifting with a engine hoist.

i am no engineer, but i know a few. i again recommend checking with a contractor or some one more qualified than myself to give you the ultimate answer. it's not worth getting hurt over.
Jason
 
As Magnumdart suggested - wedge a couple of 2 x 8s on the outside of each hanger to the floor and you will be fine.
 
I just noticed that your beams are two by tens. I still think this is good, but I think I would still get a pros opinion as as mentioned. If a person really wanted to turn this into rocket science you could figure up the live loads, dead loads, deflection, grade of the lumber and the species,and even the angle of the grain comes into play. Also include how large the holes are, where they are in relation to the center of the beam (center being the best place for them, if you have to drill), how you joined the three pieces together, blah, blah, blah forever. Just make sure that the beam cannot tip over or roll. It would get really weak at that point.
 
Oh yea, one other more useful point. The center of the beam will be the weakest, so the further toward one end of the beam or the other that you mount your brackets should increase its load bearing capacity at that point.
 
I lift 800 lb moose on 3 2x6's laminated together and width of 12 ft. That is with the load in the center. I think you will be fine with your setup as an engine and tranny wouldn't be much more if any.

Jack
 
If I were doing this I would first bolt a 1/4" steel fish plate on one side of the sistered 2x10s end to end and then install my drop plate by taking the U shaped end and dropping it up and over the top of the 2x10s/fish plate with both tabs coming down through the ceiling.
If this is for only a once and a while use then I would just have two 4/4s, the lenght of floor to ceiling under the sistered 2x10s and temporarily install them on both sides of hoist when pulling engine, as mentioned above.
This is just my opinion, and I have been a carpenter/contractor for the past 35yrs. Mike
 
The problem with what you are showing is that you are not using the whole width of the wood for load carrying. If you measure from the top holes to the bottom of the 2 x's this is how much thickness you have. When it gives away it will tear the wood away at these bolts. You need to run the steel over the 2x's that way the load will be pulling down on the top of the 2x's not trying to split them in half like with bolts running thru the 2x's.

Put a piece of steel about 6' long or more, like rectangle tubing on top of the 2x's before you run over the top with your hoist mount that way you will have some steel to add strength to the wood. But at all costs don't run bolts thru the wood it will tear away.

Chuck
 
What 340mopar said. Any drilling and bolting through just reduces strength. I'd wrap your plate across the top over a longer piece of like 2x3 or 2x4 steel tubing and not even bolt or screw anything into the wood beam. Have 2 bolts just below the beam to clamp it in position. Make a sliding door-covered window through the ceiling along the line of the beam and you can move your hoist a few feet one direction or the other as needed/desired.
 
You have a bit of over kill which is niece.In my garage I have a piece of 2x3 steel tubing running the width of the garage.Under the tubing on each end is a section of C channel welded to it.The support is 3 2x4x8 pieces of wood screwed together which fit into the C channel,which is coverd by a bracket screwed to the wall and the beams in it.Is it strong,lets talk about it.I had to replace a motor on celica GTS car and needed to remove the assembly from under the car,unbolted every thing and hoisted the car up on a chain block and removed the engine and reinstalled it the same way.Removed a ford 460 complete with this set up and left it over night just to see if the walls or bar would bend,no movement at all.Your brakets are 10 times over kill,and if you install a 2x3 steel square tubing with .125 wall thickness and have a hook welded to it,or some sort of pulley or come along,your good for life,Mrmopartech
 
ok, see if you guys like this better...I can make a new channel piece to go up over beam and around each side. I can tap the holes in the "old" plate so I can bolt the new piece to it. This will mean 8 - 1/2" bolts total.

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