Opinions for shop build type

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YY1 said:
That seems like an awfully circuitous path.

I have read every post in this thread.

Do you not agree your situation is a little "non-standard"?

Apparently at least a couple other thread participants think so.

I personally don't do HOAs.

However, our rental houses are in an HOA neighborhood.

That fee gets "Passed along to the consumer".

...and I own a "car guy friendly" self storage facility.
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I've owned my unit since 2007. Overall I'm very happy with everything. Almost everyone in the complex is a garage type guy, a few woodworkers and some small business for overflow storage, but 90% are car guys. We are self governed, we elect a president and secretary and so on. All business at hand is voted on, there is no outside influence other than the town board and basic ordinance's everyone everywhere has to put up with. In wisconsin this kind of condo arrangement is common. While I don't agree with everything the association has done, my voice gets heard and if I can sway enough other tenants, I'll get my way. But it's never come to push to shove and I can live with the things we have done.
My cost out of pocket is under $100 a month and that includes property taxes, owners insurance and yearly mantaince fee. Quite frankly I don't see how they get the snow plowed and lawn mowed for what we pay.

I live in a condo I own in the village of Belgium and the association fee is 12 times what I pay at my storage unit. They spend money stupidly, then again there are no women in the storage association and the condo association where I live is full of them.
 
barbee6043 said:
What are you getting for $1200/year?
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Fire system. Insurance, Landscape maintenance ,Shrubs, palm trees trimmed twice a year. Water, sewerage, trash and recycle pickup. Camera security. Parking lot maintenance.
We keep $50K in reserve just because. Almost forgot catered Xmas party. stuff like that.
Believe me I would sell in a second but have no room at my house. City said no for addition at my house. I tried to call it a RV garage addition.
 
I'd do the pole barn style with 12' wall height. My ceiling is 11' 5" and I have plenty of room to raise cars on my 4 post lift. Pickups are a different story. When I did the motor/trans swap in our 2004 Dakota, I had to duck a little to get under the lift. I've never built one, but I would think it would be important to do all that you can to protect the bottom parts of the 6 x 6 posts where they go in the ground. If I were building one, I'd do 2 or 3 coats of Raptor Bed liner on the bottoms of the posts, high enough to show above the eventual concrete. Then I'd cover that with the big shrink wrap that you can buy to do the same thing. Overkill? Yep, but I'd know it would outlast me...lol. Ground line is where any piece of wood you stick in the ground will rot. Covering it above concrete level should keep the concrete from eating on the wood also.

My garage is concrete blocks from footers to the top, then roof trusses on top of that. Blocks hold the cold in the winter. If I had it to do over, it would be a 2' knee wall with all cells poured and then 12' wood framed walls on that. We don't have tornados where I live, but if we did, I wouldn't feel any more confident in block walls standing than if they were wood framed. I was a lineman for the power company my whole adult life. We went to N. GA around 2007 or so, to work for Georgia Power after that big tornado that wiped out half of Alabama, then ran thru Trenton, GA. There was nothing left standing in it's path, so that was a big eye opener for me, never having seen it other than on TV. Good luck with the shop build.
 
JDMopar said:
I'd do the pole barn style with 12' wall height. My ceiling is 11' 5" and I have plenty of room to raise cars on my 4 post lift. Pickups are a different story. When I did the motor/trans swap in our 2004 Dakota, I had to duck a little to get under the lift. I've never built one, but I would think it would be important to do all that you can to protect the bottom parts of the 6 x 6 posts where they go in the ground. If I were building one, I'd do 2 or 3 coats of Raptor Bed liner on the bottoms of the posts, high enough to show above the eventual concrete. Then I'd cover that with the big shrink wrap that you can buy to do the same thing. Overkill? Yep, but I'd know it would outlast me...lol. Ground line is where any piece of wood you stick in the ground will rot. Covering it above concrete level should keep the concrete from eating on the wood also.

My garage is concrete blocks from footers to the top, then roof trusses on top of that. Blocks hold the cold in the winter. If I had it to do over, it would be a 2' knee wall with all cells poured and then 12' wood framed walls on that. We don't have tornados where I live, but if we did, I wouldn't feel any more confident in block walls standing than if they were wood framed. I was a lineman for the power company my whole adult life. We went to N. GA around 2007 or so, to work for Georgia Power after that big tornado that wiped out half of Alabama, then ran thru Trenton, GA. There was nothing left standing in it's path, so that was a big eye opener for me, never having seen it other than on TV. Good luck with the shop build.
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Raptor liner is a great idea! I may do that on my porch posts before I wrap them in cedar.
 

dukeboy440 said:
Raptor liner is a great idea! I may do that on my porch posts before I wrap them in cedar.
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Here's the shrink wrap I said I'd overkill with..lol. It might be worth putting over the top of the Raptor Liner right at the ground and concrete level, but I don't know that it would be a benefit below ground. Every rotten power pole stump we ever pulled out of the ground over the years looked like a brand new pole below where it had rotted at ground level.

 
I have a quonset bldg
semi closed ends. 40 x 40 about 20' tall in the center,
when I built it was the cheapest/biggest I could find for my budget
20 years ago they delivered a 5000 lb pallet
of pringles chips
and 3 buckets of bolts

bought the kit for $5000 + shipping.
only 2 companies stamp them,
lots of distributors. make them fight...lol
 
JDMopar said:
I'd do the pole barn style with 12' wall height. My ceiling is 11' 5" and I have plenty of room to raise cars on my 4 post lift. Pickups are a different story. When I did the motor/trans swap in our 2004 Dakota, I had to duck a little to get under the lift. I've never built one, but I would think it would be important to do all that you can to protect the bottom parts of the 6 x 6 posts where they go in the ground. If I were building one, I'd do 2 or 3 coats of Raptor Bed liner on the bottoms of the posts, high enough to show above the eventual concrete. Then I'd cover that with the big shrink wrap that you can buy to do the same thing. Overkill? Yep, but I'd know it would outlast me...lol. Ground line is where any piece of wood you stick in the ground will rot. Covering it above concrete level should keep the concrete from eating on the wood also.

My garage is concrete blocks from footers to the top, then roof trusses on top of that. Blocks hold the cold in the winter. If I had it to do over, it would be a 2' knee wall with all cells poured and then 12' wood framed walls on that. We don't have tornados where I live, but if we did, I wouldn't feel any more confident in block walls standing than if they were wood framed. I was a lineman for the power company my whole adult life. We went to N. GA around 2007 or so, to work for Georgia Power after that big tornado that wiped out half of Alabama, then ran thru Trenton, GA. There was nothing left standing in it's path, so that was a big eye opener for me, never having seen it other than on TV. Good luck with the shop build.
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Yes, a F5 tornado will leave pretty much nothing. Only thing a person can do is insure it for such!
I have seen Mo. microbursts blow a 60 x 120 foot indoor arena, yes typical pole barn build, blow it 100 years into the timber, still in tack but 50-100 yards away!
 
JDMopar said:
I'd do the pole barn style with 12' wall height. My ceiling is 11' 5" and I have plenty of room to raise cars on my 4 post lift. Pickups are a different story. When I did the motor/trans swap in our 2004 Dakota, I had to duck a little to get under the lift. I've never built one, but I would think it would be important to do all that you can to protect the bottom parts of the 6 x 6 posts where they go in the ground. If I were building one, I'd do 2 or 3 coats of Raptor Bed liner on the bottoms of the posts, high enough to show above the eventual concrete. Then I'd cover that with the big shrink wrap that you can buy to do the same thing. Overkill? Yep, but I'd know it would outlast me...lol. Ground line is where any piece of wood you stick in the ground will rot. Covering it above concrete level should keep the concrete from eating on the wood also.

My garage is concrete blocks from footers to the top, then roof trusses on top of that. Blocks hold the cold in the winter. If I had it to do over, it would be a 2' knee wall with all cells poured and then 12' wood framed walls on that. We don't have tornados where I live, but if we did, I wouldn't feel any more confident in block walls standing than if they were wood framed. I was a lineman for the power company my whole adult life. We went to N. GA around 2007 or so, to work for Georgia Power after that big tornado that wiped out half of Alabama, then ran thru Trenton, GA. There was nothing left standing in it's path, so that was a big eye opener for me, never having seen it other than on TV. Good luck with the shop build.
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I've been in that shop!!! You really have a lot of stuff on a small piece of land. You are close to everything there.

I am rolling things over in my mind. I have $75,000+ to build a shop. I have a 675sqft single wide that I'm living in. It is almost 49 years old. 1.12 acres. I sold 1.64 acres down the street last fall. Market value was around $50+K. Has septic, city water, power pole, city gas. It had a trailer there the new owner paid $9K to get it torn down and hauled off. After closing I have $73K in cash. I sold over market value. Paid 20% capital gains out of my separate building account.

Construction is still booming here. Hard to deal with builders etc. Probably going to contract it out myself. I have the knowledge, too old to do the work. Equipment rental place less than 2mi away.

I have a 720sqft insulated pole barn shop that is stuffed to the gills. No rat guard on the walls.

Have 2 different drawings labeled "not to scale" for where my drain field might be. 2 different locations where the septic tank might be. I do know the actual location is. Stuff I got from the state waste water people. Guess what? My present shop is partially on top of it in both drawings! No permits are required to build a shop if no living quarters are in it. I am going to put a space in there to live in. Keep the trailer up for now. I will hook a soil pipe to the line coming from my trailer into the existing septic. :p
 
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I will do a monolithic slab with footings. I am going to build on top of my existing drive way area that my be covering some of the drain field. There is enough fill compacted there that I have the bottom room to do the footers. I have 5.5acres in the boonies. Probably not worth much right now. That will be my house money. I can pull a permit in the future to build a house after the single wide goes into the dumpsters. Can buy a worthless 15ft camper trailer and get 6 month renewable camper permits as long as there is progress on the house. I don't want to do a mortgage. Move my Duster into the shop out of the weather. My dually is running really strong. The Buicks can stay outside. Need enough height to do a 2 post lift big enough to lift the truck. F*** I need to retire!

I have a decent handle on the local import labor market to hire good people to do the lifting I can't do. i am considering doing 6" structural steel stud walls. Hit all the supply yards locate rusty, or damaged studs some I might be able to cut off the bad parts.

Have another $40K (after capital gains) + in a inherited IRA I have to cash out before 2028.
 
Good to see you still kickin Walt! Shoot man....you're only 25,047 days old, so I know you can still do a lot of stuff. :poke: :) Have you thought about rehabbing the single wide and just sticking with it? Tear all the tin off the sides, sheet it with OSB, Tyvek it and put up vinyl siding and new windows. Do a good metal roof to seal it up forever and then doll the inside up. Might save enough to make a bigger shop.
 
JDMopar said:
Good to see you still kickin Walt! Shoot man....you're only 25,047 days old, so I know you can still do a lot of stuff. :poke: :) Have you thought about rehabbing the single wide and just sticking with it? Tear all the tin off the sides, sheet it with OSB, Tyvek it and put up vinyl siding and new windows. Do a good metal roof to seal it up forever and then doll the inside up. Might save enough to make a bigger shop.
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Hail hates vinyl siding. Insurance companies hate to pay for any damage especially hail! :thumbsup: :BangHead:
 
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