Orphans........

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318willrun

318willrun

Utube channel 318willrun
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How about you? Hot rod/drag car, ok, but I'm not a fan of orphans for cars that I'm taking on long trips. Replacing a 318 with a 360 is not a orphan. Putting a LS in a 'stang is a orphan. In my case, my grey van is a orphan and I'm going to try and change that, at least make it so parts are available at parts stores. Here is my list so far:
  1. changing the comp cam to a '89 cam long snout
  2. Going to mechanical fuel pump.
  3. Going to points distributor
 
When I go to points, should I use a 2 post ballast? Or get a coil with a it built in?
 
Funny, my 63 falcon would be an orphan according to you. I put a turbocharged injected Honda v6 in it with a Miata 6 speed manual. But I did it SO I could take it on long trips. You know Reliable, powerful, efficient, all those things. It’s an orphan and I like it.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Funny, my 63 falcon would be an orphan according to you. I put a turbocharged injected Honda v6 in it with a Miata 6 speed manual. But I did it SO I could take it on long trips. You know Reliable, powerful, efficient, all those things. It’s an orphan and I like it.
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But you did it, so you understand exactly how it is set up. Let somebody that doesn't know take it on a trip and have an issue. 3 days at the parts store trying to figure out what's up? Or 3 days in a mechanics shop trying to figure out the same thing..... Big difference being the builder...
 
I completely agree. When I built the car I made diagrams for every single wire in the harness and kept a folder of every single nut and bolt used. It will go with the car if I ever sell it. I did it mostly so I would remember everything and I have definitely used it. I have certainly had wtf moments trying to figure out what some po did to a car I’m working on.
 
Almost every car I’ve ever purchased the first thing I do is take out every single electrical component someone else has wired in. Try to get it back to stock quickly. Most people don’t do stuff correctly, especially when it comes to electrical add ons. I did buy a dart once that was 100% stock in every way possible. It was a dream to work on, everything already worked. I realize that your van is beyond that and returning it to stock would be a step backwards but personally I would go through that entire harness.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Almost every car I’ve ever purchased the first thing I do is take out every single electrical component someone else has wired in. Try to get it back to stock quickly. Most people don’t do stuff correctly, especially when it comes to electrical add ons. I did buy a dart once that was 100% stock in every way possible. It was a dream to work on, everything already worked. I realize that your van is beyond that and returning it to stock would be a step backwards but personally I would go through that entire harness.
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Unfortunately, I'm not very good at wiring... LOL. That's why I'm going to the "one wire fire" points distributor. I'll say, the guy has it all charging and running good.
 
LOL, about a month ago I was ready to install my 73 340 / 727 into my Nova. I was searching for a really good block and coming up short. It was very very close to happening. Then I found what I was looking for. I still think it would have been cool to try to convince people it was 10 cubes smaller than theirs when I beat them!
 
2408DC2A-D523-4628-A165-AB3B03F1ABCE.jpeg
 
I would think twice about points on a small block sitting at the back of the engine and maybe space limited back there. If it was a B engine with distributor up front maybe then think about points. But as reliable as the electronic ignition has become why even think about points.
 
tonysrt said:
I would think twice about points on a small block sitting at the back of the engine and maybe space limited back there. If it was a B engine with distributor up front maybe then think about points. But as reliable as the electronic ignition has become why even think about points.
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It's in a van, the distributor couldn't be more exposed once the dog house is removed. I don't have a problem with electronic ignition, but how would i wire it into the black box?
 
Did you ever tell us what year the van was? So what you're doing is converting the van 2 points system if necessary when you're out on the road an creating your own orphan.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Did you ever tell us what year the van was? So what you're doing is converting the van 2 points system if necessary when you're out on the road an creating your own orphan.
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"my orphan '89 Dodge Van" 1st post :) It's either points, or return the van back to TBI (not happening) or convert the thing to electronic ignition (I wouldn't know where to start). Here's the thing, with points, I can run a positive power wire through a 2 post ballast resistor then from that to the + side of coil. Then the points one wire dizzy just goes to the neg and your good to go
 
That's not GM HEI. That's a total aftermarket. The GM HEI has the BIG cap. Like this one I have for a low deck big block. I like the point type ignition idea.....but that's still orphaned up since it didn't come that way. At least by your own definition. If it was mine, that black box would be layin in the ditch and I would have converted it to early 70s wiring. Just basic stuff.

SCRIBBIDY.jpg
 
318willrun said:
When I go to points, should I use a 2 post ballast? Or get a coil with a it built in?
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2 post ballast is fine. Like the points Distributor, have a brand new one that I use with the engine run stand . . simple and works great.
 
George Jets said:
2 post ballast is fine. Like the points Distributor, have a brand new one that I use with the engine run stand . . simple and works great.
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I know right? Why mess with perfection? I have two different electronic distributors for my big block project, but after mulling it over, I hawked eBay and found a nice NOS point style take out so I decided to use that. That's what the car came with, it works and it'll wire right up with no effort. What's not to love?
 
318willrun said:
It's in a van, the distributor couldn't be more exposed once the dog house is removed. I don't have a problem with electronic ignition, but how would i wire it into the black box?
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Yellow connector on the left is + Power for the 2 wires going into the 4 post ballast resistor for electronic ignition.

You can actually buy the black box pig tail online for wiring it up. It is pretty easy if you can Break it all down.

Here is a picture of my electronic run panel to use with the electronic distributors.

20200714_165418.jpg
 
318willrun said:
Unfortunately, I'm not very good at wiring... LOL. That's why I'm going to the "one wire fire" points distributor. I'll say, the guy has it all charging and running good.
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Here is a points distributor with the Run Stand. One blue + wire to the coil, that's it. Don't even have a ballast resistor in line. They say it is easier on the points if the ballast is in line, but it runs fine without it.

Think the worst thing with no ballast is if you leave the key on without the engine running then that is what is hard on the points getting full power.

Screenshot_20200818-020036_Gallery.jpg
 
Oh I am sure you know, but make sure and put a mini starter in your van. It will start like it has fuel injection. And will give more available electricity to your ignition system, then that works better too.
 
318willrun said:
How about you? Hot rod/drag car, ok, but I'm not a fan of orphans for cars that I'm taking on long trips. Replacing a 318 with a 360 is not a orphan. Putting a LS in a 'stang is a orphan. In my case, my grey van is a orphan and I'm going to try and change that, at least make it so parts are available at parts stores. Here is my list so far:
  1. changing the comp cam to a '89 cam long snout
  2. Going to mechanical fuel pump.
  3. Going to points distributor
Click to expand...


That ticking is probably the roller lifters not pumping all the way up. Look your engine tick up on Google. They say some years of the roller engines had a poor design roller lifter and there are upgraded lifters available for them.

The next best thing they say is add a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to your oil, they are saying on Ramcharger.com to quiet the lifters down. People are having success doing this.

A quart of tranny fluid works too if you are desperate.
 
318willrun said:
How about you? Hot rod/drag car, ok, but I'm not a fan of orphans for cars that I'm taking on long trips. Replacing a 318 with a 360 is not a orphan. Putting a LS in a 'stang is a orphan. In my case, my grey van is a orphan and I'm going to try and change that, at least make it so parts are available at parts stores. Here is my list so far:
  1. changing the comp cam to a '89 cam long snout
  2. Going to mechanical fuel pump.
  3. Going to points distributor
Click to expand...


Where did you get your 89 long snout roller cam? Got to have them to run the fuel pump eccentric for the manual fuel pump.

Would like to know, if I do another roller TBI engine 4 bbl conversation.

I Did make an adapter for the stock short snout roller cam to drive the fuel pump eccentric on my 91 318 roller with the 4bbl on it now.
 
George Jets said:
That ticking is probably the roller lifters not pumping all the way up. Look your engine tick up on Google. They say some years of the roller engines had a poor design roller lifter and there are upgraded lifters available for them.

The next best thing they say is add a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to your oil, they are saying on Ramcharger.com to quiet the lifters down. People are having success doing this.

A quart of tranny fluid works too if you are desperate.
Click to expand...

Then there is also the possibility it's been into and someone reinstalled some of the lifters wrong. They can be installed wrong and there's only one way. The oil hole in the lifters points towards the center of the engine. If they are installed with the oil holes pointing to the outside of the engine, the oil can partially drain out of them causing ticking on startup.
 
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