Overheating wowes that make no sense - help!!!

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One of my friends called me over to help him with that same problem.
Sitting in the driveway it was fine, driving it would overheat.
He put an electric fan on it but had it blowing forward, so when he was driving it the fan was resisting the airflow through the radiator.

Just a thought I didn't see mentioned.
 
33 degrees total is not enough advance for a healthy 440. I have been fighting the same problem and my machinist suggested more advance. I was running 220 and above with 36 degrees advance total and would shut it down at 230 cause I didnt want to hurt the motor before I figured it out. With 40 degrees total it runs at 200. This is a 500 with aluminum heads flagella and a stout solid roller cam at 10 to 1 that runs on 93 octane. Give it a shot. What ya got to loose?
 
I havent seen this mentioned, but with a new build and only 100 miles, is it possible that something just wasnt done right in the build? Wrong parts or something too tight?
 
1970Duster said:
Ever heard of block fill. It the crap people pour in the block that they use to go racing with. Goes down the track and then shut it off Ive seen it done a lot (not my thing, I like to drive to and from the track). That or it didnt get tanked and cleaned before being rebuilt
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What advantage does filling your block with this crap give you?
 
My brother had overheating issues with his 440. He had one of those universal flex hoses on his upper hose and when he changed it out with a smooth correct fit hose it took care of his overheating issues.
 
Get an infra red thermometer from Amazon.com or off ebay and point it around you upper hose, lower hose, engine block etc. That is the first tool you need to track this down. Right now you are in the dark. For example, if your upper hose is not very hot but the base of the thermostat is then you know right there coolant aint circulating. If upper hose is hot and bottom hose is just as hot then radiator not working. You will be amazed how fast you can track problems down with an infra red theremometer. I paid $50 for mine and it has saved me so much time tracking down cooling issues or in a lot of cases perceived cooling issues.
 
Sounds like it is running lean also needs a clutch fan with shroud. Shroud will force the air on block and water pump not blow it all over the engine bay. Twin fans will restrict the air coming through the radiator. I hope you got the alumin raditor with the larger cores... something like 1 ½. This will allow for more radiator fluid to be in the cooling system.

I installed a Griffin rad with two rolls of 1 ¼" cores (small block) and damn near added twice as much radiator fluid (50/50)mix than what was in the stock mopar radiator I was running. Made a huge difference. I was having the same issues with mine at hwy speeds... ditched the electric fan that was in between the rad and motor (puller) added shroud, stock steal fan and no more over heating. I currently had problems with the reproduction shroud (don't by these shrouds they will warp up so bad the will start touching the fan). I took it off because I was afraid it would fly apart and damage my new Griffin rad. Right off the bat driving around with a shroud the temps started going up again. I have a stock Mopar fan shroud from the early 70s but just not had time to install it but it really needs that shroud.

If you really want to keep the electric fans they need to be moving 5000 cfm minimum.

Oh yeah I run a 195 thermo and it can sit all day long idling and never get over 185 degrees (with the shroud installed and the stock steal fan pulling air through the radiator )
 
jeryst said:
What advantage does filling your block with this crap give you?
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The blok filler (correct spelling) is used to strengthen the block of race car engines. not meant for street engines. I run a 360 small block stroked to 408 ci. It makes 611hp and 545 ft lbs of torque. It revs to over 7000rpm. Thats why guys use blok filler in a engine.
 
daredevil said:
33 degrees total is not enough advance for a healthy 440. I have been fighting the same problem and my machinist suggested more advance. I was running 220 and above with 36 degrees advance total and would shut it down at 230 cause I didnt want to hurt the motor before I figured it out. With 40 degrees total it runs at 200. This is a 500 with aluminum heads flagella and a stout solid roller cam at 10 to 1 that runs on 93 octane. Give it a shot. What ya got to loose?
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Let us see. A 440 we just got back from Dvorack Machine won't go above 160. At 32 degrees, because that long stroke needs less timing. Search Dvorack, and see how many titles he holds. I have spent a lot of time with him, and have learned more than you can on line.
440, 32 degrees, then adjust for ping. Done. Take a 340 with good cam and heads; start at 36 total, then see where it whill idle. Mine at 18 degrees initial, so I pull out advance in the dist, to hold it at 36.
 
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