Paint help quick

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Backally

Backally

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I am repainting my engine compartment with the same paint car was painted with. Was painted once but was nicked up so wanted it to good better. New at this, talked to the guy at a reputable paint store for quite a while so that's where I got the times between paint, etc. Sanded it down good, went over it twice with a degreaser, then twice with a wax and grease remover. 2 coats of epoxy primer, waited 20 minutes between coats. Let dry for 1!/2 hour and put on the base coat, Shopline paint. waited 15 minutes and put on the second coat. As I was putting on the second coat I see a couple areas that are bubbling up. Tech sheet says to clear withing 24 hours. Can I let the paint dry for a couple hours, lightly sand it down, clean it really good and reshoot the base coat? Like I said, I'm new at paint so is there anything I can do other than start over?
 
leave it over nite...since you are sanding and reshooting the 24 hour clear window wont matter
 
I'll just have to sand the areas that are bad, correct?
 
If your base is bubbling you need to stop right now. Something is wrong. The bubbles are just where it's letting go right now, the rest of it may be flat but have little or no adhesion.

If it was just nicked up in places, you could have just feathered the chips, hit those areas with a little rattle can etch primer (quality brand like SEM), scuffed the engine compartment, blended in the base (or base the entire thing), and re-cleared.

Do you have a water filter on your air system?
 
Yes, do have a water filter. The are under the master cylinder was surface rust, wanted to fix that along with the nicks. And there were a bunch of them. The places were the paint is lifting are not areas that were bad before, so assuming I did something wrong.
 
The best advise I can give you is carefully paint strip it to bare metal and start over with self etching primer. Otherwise you could be 1/8 inch thick before your done. You are having a reaction of some sort and it showed up where the paint was wettest. But it is probably everywhere and not showing as stated above. You could try several more times and then strip it. That's your call.
 
Used the degreaser just to make sure everything was as clean as I could get it. I'll probably sand down the areas that lifted, clean and reprime them and see if the paint holds. If that doesn't work I hate the thought of taking it to bare metal but may have too. The primer under those spots was sticking good yet so hoping round two sticks better.
 
Backally said:
Used the degreaser just to make sure everything was as clean as I could get it. I'll probably sand down the areas that lifted, clean and reprime them and see if the paint holds. If that doesn't work I hate the thought of taking it to bare metal but may have too. The primer under those spots was sticking good yet so hoping round two sticks better.
Click to expand...

Sorry but I still don't understand using degreaser after sanding seems like to me it would get in the pours of the primer and be hard to clean out no matter how much you clean it but I've been wrong before
 
What is your shop temp/metal temp at? Probably goes w/o saying (as I see your following recommended dry times), but now that cold weather is here doesn't take much to slow evaporation of wax & grease remover or flash times between coats.
 
Garage temp is 70f. About 10-15 outside. Wife is loving it. Car is covered so I don't get a big temp drop when garage door is opened. And the family knows door opens, get out and get it closed ASAP. Only opens about twice a day and not at all when I was painting.

I didn't think I had much to lose, so lightly sanded the spots down, cleaned everything again primed and resprayed it. Came out good. Not a Montery Bay showpiece but much better than it was. Not sure why those spots lifted, guessing even with all my efforts to clean I got/left some contamination there?
 
I would strip the engine compartment with wire wheel on 4 1/2 grinder then ectching primer followed by surfacing primer then block sand to finish quality. If its cold in your shop IE wisconson you need the cold weather thiner for your paint. Not below 65 please and for engine compartments I shoot single stage paint and use hardener then your able to wet sand and buff if you need to remove orange peel or minor runs.

Good luck but you really need to strip it before you paint again and no wax N grease remover wipe down finished primer with light amount of thiner immediatly following with a dry cloth leaving no residue. Also use a little fish eye remover in your paint mix.

Hope this helps paint can only be so thick then all kinds of bad JUJU happen. If you ever use wax n grease remover again follow up with the light thinner double rag treatment.

WOW missed the your done its good post. Hope it doesnt craze when its summer
 
Sometimes if wax and grease remover is not thoroughly wiped dry and there is residual there it can cause it to fisheye really bad. Good ol dish washing liquid and water is sometimes the best.
 
Ive been painting for many years, never had a problem with any wax &grease remover. I use it before I sand, after I sand,before I seal, & after I seal a car. I really don't think it was the cleaner, unless you would put the base on right after & I meen right after. Most of your wax & grease removers come in different drying times.It sounds to me that the old paint & new paint might not have been compatible. Glad to hear that it turned out. Good luck with it.
 
FYI I'm using the same material and also had paint lifting two different times. I'm thinking it's their epoxy primer (sealer) stopped using it haven't had it happen since I stopped using the sealer
 

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