Paint Questions?????????????????????

[JTG]

Hi just a few paint questions please, what is the better paint on a Mopar at the end of the day? the one stage acrylic enamel which I'll assume all our Mopars initially had off the assembly line, or the two stage (the paint followed by the clear coat). What is the pros and cons between the two?

What would it generally cost to re-paint an entire car that has no rust and will be painted the exact same colour?

The body stripes that were put on Mopars in 68, are they painted on or stick on decals?

 

[1968FormulaS340]

Stripes are stickers (you do not want them painted because if you ever need to realign a door or fender, you are screwed).

You want to use a modern base, clear 2 stage. You won't find anyone using acrylic enamel anymore.

Most paint jobs today start at $5,000 and go up.

 

[340john]

The original stripes were decals. Most of the time I use decals when I repaint. I have on occaision, painted on stripes. and cleared over them so they are burried under the clear. I have done this on a few cars, not just Mopars, with no problems.

Most shops will use a two stage system. Unless the customer specifies that they want an enamel single stage job, we use two stage. That last time we used single stage was on a black 64 corvette that we did a few years ago.

In our shop we start our complete rime, block, prep, paint, buff job at $3500. Of course bodywork drives the price up.

 

[grimreaper]

Use a modern paint system. Durability and shine is greatly improved.

From the days of carriages until about 1923 cars were painted with what was basically varnish. Several coats were brushed on and then sanded smooth and polished. This was repeated until a satisfactory finish was achieved. This process often took 40 or 50 days. In 1923 a dentist invented a spray gun an paint companies had developed nitrocellulose laquer. Automakers jumped on th chance to paint a car in far less time. Laquer need to be wet sanded and polished and was prone to discoloration and cracking. In the 30s alkyd or synthetic enamel was developed and became the standard automotive finish. Before long paint companies had come up with acrylic laquer. Until the late 60s auto makers used either synthetic enamel or acrylic laquer. In the late 60s paint companies had discovered how to utilize the acrylics in enamel (acrylic enamel) which produced a better lasting product that shined at the completion of the paint application. In the 70s paint companies started developing various paints that hardened through chemical procedures instead of "air dry". These were the urethanes, polyurethanes and hardeners for acrylics. Since the initial development of those products there have been significant improvements in automotive paint. Single stage urethanes shine and are durable. Base coat clear coats make application of a nice smooth base and super shiny top coat easier and countless color additives such as pearls, candies, midcoates have made paint the most versatile it's ever been. The newest products are extremely low in emisions and even water based systems. Paint has come a long way from the old, brush it on and sand it smooth, days. Durability is greatly improved. (you couldn't spill gas on the old cars and expect the paint to remain unaffected)
So, don't even consider the acrylic enamel from the days of old (unless you are doing an EXACT 100% reproduction and insist that the sheet metal is covered with the inferior products of the time, in which case it won't be exposed to elements anyway. Use one of the modern urethane products or even the new waterborn systems. Far , far superior.

 

[Rocky_JS]

solid color and cost is an issue/ thought single stage. price can double for the second stage as in reality it is clear paint. metallic go two stage as it will give the flexibility to cut and buff where as single stage metallic's you kind of don't have that option.
as grim stated above "Use one of the modern urethane products or even the new waterborn systems"! couldn't have said it better myself. it still takes an experienced hand to lay out a good urethane.
but using the rules above it will lessen the margin of error, correction for one not so experienced or having the optimal climate and/or facility to spray.

 

[JTG]

Thanks for the reponses guys.

Any Toronto/Canada area members have any recommendations for a bodyshop that can paint a Mopar properly, want a better then daily driver job, but not looking for up on mirrors concourse show car with 15 clear coats paint job either.

 

[JTG]

Just opening up this thread again to see if I can get any responses for the inquiry directly above, from Toronto/Ontario members.