Paint rant time

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dodge71demon

dodge71demon

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Got project Scamp painted base coat - clear coat
Painted all parts off car.Had engine comaprtment and
doors painted.Pretty transparent paint decided I should
get another gallon of base to be safe.Same supplier and person
mixed it.Mixed what I had left from the first gallon with the second
gallon.Painted everything else hung doors and they are a
complete different shade than everthing else.Now I have to
sand down the doors prime - sand paint etc.
Boy am I pissed and I don't get that way often but seams like
they could have done their job right
 

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I think they did. Thats why they tell you to buy as much as you need and have it mixed all at once. Because this is what can happen if you dont. Bummer deal though. Is it possible to prep the rest of the body and do one final coat on the whole thing with the new mix?
 
72ScampTramp said:
I think they did. Thats why they tell you to buy as much as you need and have it mixed all at once. Because this is what can happen if you dont. Bummer deal though. Is it possible to prep the rest of the body and do one final coat on the whole thing with the new mix?
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NO I understand everything you said just thought it would be a lot closer
in color at least it's just the doors
 
I feel your pain,when the body man did my car,he painted under the hood,doors,trunk him self witch he was not to do.Than the paint shop did the rest of the body and guessssssssssssssssss what 2 different shades.Look it up WORST BODY JOB EVER.Screwed the resale of my car.Sorry for ya.
 
wow,thats not just a little off thats a lot. i ran into the same problem with TCP. i used a gallon, did all my jams ,engine compartment and the hood latch support ,underneath the hood and trunk lid, i knew then i wouldnt have enough to cover the body and so i ordered another gallon and shot the body and when i rolled it out in the sun, the body was more of a teal than a medium blue and i was pissed, but there was no way i was going to tear it all apart and reshoot the jams and such. it looks great until you open the hood and see where the fenders meet the firewall and you see a mismatch in color. next time i will order 2 gallons and mix them both together before i paint anything, unfortunately, i found this out the hard way, oh well, you live and learn. i know it sucks, but looks like you will have to scuff it all real good and reshoot the body.
 
Morning buddy, Yea..... I feel your pain, but I think scamptramp hit the nail on the head by saying, you probably need to prep the whole car, and what we would do here is wet sand the car with some good fine sandpaper and repaint and reclear over that. That's the whole problem with spraying those metallic color's and being so transparent, base usually lay's down really well. But also, alot of it has to do with HOW MANY COAT'S YOU LAY DOWN ON A PANEL ESPECIALLY WHEN THE PANEL(S) ARE OFF THE CAR! PM us if you need to talk about it. Good luck. Dodge33
 
73AbodEE said:
wow,thats not just a little off thats a lot. i ran into the same problem with TCP. i used a gallon, did all my jams ,engine compartment and the hood latch support ,underneath the hood and trunk lid, i knew then i wouldnt have enough to cover the body and so i ordered another gallon and shot the body and when i rolled it out in the sun, the body was more of a teal than a medium blue and i was pissed, but there was no way i was going to tear it all apart and reshoot the jams and such. it looks great until you open the hood and see where the fenders meet the firewall and you see a mismatch in color. next time i will order 2 gallons and mix them both together before i paint anything, unfortunately, i found this out the hard way, oh well, you live and learn. i know it sucks, but looks like you will have to scuff it all real good and reshoot the body.
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The doors are the only problem not the body and I have plenty of paint left that the rest of the car was painted with so I'm just going to scuff the doors and repaint them should be ok just one of them dumb *** things that cause more work
 
Had the same issue from using different clears. Same gallon of paint was used. Paint store was out of the original clear I bought and assured me that this other clear would be the same if I cut and buffed it, wouldn't notice any difference. Well he was wrong. Had to repaint and clear both doors and both fenders to fix. Aggravating to say the least.
 
i am a prof essional painter and am here to say its not gonna be as hard a fix as you think. a big thing people miss when they spray a car apart like that is that they don t pay attention to what color sealer, how many coats of base and they lay things like doors flat and base them. when you base a car apart...you want all your parts to hang as they do on the vehicle. on metallics like that...i don t like to paint the sides of the car apart. that is what you see the most.
if i were you...i would dry sand the the car with 800-1000. base the panels together. and if you re careful...you can hang the doors before hand so they re not hard to remove. remove them...hang them on a stand or something. and clear it all. no tape lines. or.....you could even base the whole car. remove the doors, fenders, etc. clear the shell of the car, and clear the rest of the pieces later on that day. would come out cleaner and smoother that way. this is just how i would handle this...there s more than one way to skin a cat. its fixable. good luck. sorry to see this for your sake. i ve been in your shoes before. looks like a nice car.
 
Thanks for all your support and feedback.I've set all
the parts on the scamp and looks like the only problem
is the doors.Put it away for now need to get away from it
I will work on it next weekend.The Scamp is planned as a
low dollar daily driver (yeah right) that is why I attempted to
paint it myself so all in all not to bad
By the way the front is also getting a change over stay tuned
 

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evil 340 said:
i am a prof essional painter and am here to say its not gonna be as hard a fix as you think. a big thing people miss when they spray a car apart like that is that they don t pay attention to what color sealer, how many coats of base and they lay things like doors flat and base them. when you base a car apart...you want all your parts to hang as they do on the vehicle. on metallics like that...i don t like to paint the sides of the car apart. that is what you see the most.
if i were you...i would dry sand the the car with 800-1000. base the panels together. and if you re careful...you can hang the doors before hand so they re not hard to remove. remove them...hang them on a stand or something. and clear it all. no tape lines. or.....you could even base the whole car. remove the doors, fenders, etc. clear the shell of the car, and clear the rest of the pieces later on that day. would come out cleaner and smoother that way. this is just how i would handle this...there s more than one way to skin a cat. its fixable. good luck. sorry to see this for your sake. i ve been in your shoes before. looks like a nice car.
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x2 I don't think I would paint just the doors.color coat the hole car then you know it will match....so many thing will change the color. temp humidity the amount you put on the way you spray it or the air pressure you use to spray it with........just trying to help....Artie
 
A lesson I learned too, especially with metallics the whole car has to be done in one go.
I painted a car once, was unhappy with how the roof came out and since I had enough paint left over I decided to repaint the roof alone, sanded with 1000, shot new base coat and clear and altough it was the same paint there still is a slight color difference.
so I think respraying that door alone won't do.
 
roadmouse said:
A lesson I learned too, especially with metallics the whole car has to be done in one go.
I painted a car once, was unhappy with how the roof came out and since I had enough paint left over I decided to repaint the roof alone, sanded with 1000, shot new base coat and clear and altough it was the same paint there still is a slight color difference.
so I think respraying that door alone won't do.
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Well I have no choice at this time but to try and repaint just the doors
Do not have enough clear to do the entire car and do not want to purchase more the Scamp will be be a daily driver and be out in the weather anyway see what happens
 
godfatherofchry said:
....so many thing will change the color. temp humidity the amount you put on the way you spray it or the air pressure you use to spray it with........just trying to help....Artie
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That is what I was told when trying to match silver paint for some wheels. The paint sample cards were different than what was sprayed. The paint store suggested spray out cards to get the color matched prior to spraying the parts. This is where I realized that I had ran out of skill and experience. :)
 
I'm another self taught painter. Have done a few. Did my daughter's minivan front end with a metallic. Fenders were fine. Getting the metallic right on the hood was a b-tch. Finally came out OK after a few tries with different gun settings. I will not do any more metallics.
 
dodge71demon said:
Well I have no choice at this time but to try and repaint just the doors
Do not have enough clear to do the entire car and do not want to purchase more the Scamp will be be a daily driver and be out in the weather anyway see what happens
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If you repaint JUST the doors, you will regret it, they won't match. :wack:
 
Transparent paint is a Biatch, I did a F250 and had a similar problem I think it has to do with how much base you put down. If I had to do it again I would tint the primer as close to the base as possible.
 
Purple Haze said:
Transparent paint is a Biatch, I did a F250 and had a similar problem I think it has to do with how much base you put down. If I had to do it again I would tint the primer as close to the base as possible.
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This isn't really the way to go about getting coverage. If you are relying on the sealer to get coverage it's not a true color.

My 2cents on this situation.

First of all, I am going to guess that this is a "cheaper" paint line. And these are the issues you have when you have to use these products. The color should match much closer than it does even if it was a second batch. As stated above there are MANY different factors that can cause a color to not match, even if you spray it all at once. I don't even think you could get away with a color blend with that match.

As far as using a tinted sealer. It is always said to use a similar color sealer to help with coverage, but in my opinion all that does is mask a problem, and you do NOT get a true color.

Take a spray out card for example, black on one half, white on the other, these color contrasts are specifically made to show when you achieve perfect color hiding. Once the black and white are fully covered, you have your coverage. You DON'T use a sealer when you are doing a spray out card. Why? Well, because you get instant coverage with a sealer that's why. It is completely defeating the purpose of doing a spray out card. Once you get coverage over a black and white spray out card you know EXACTLY how many coats it takes to get coverage, REGARDLESS of sealer color. If you are getting coverage "faster" with a different color, then you are not getting a true color because you are actually relying on the sealer color slightly peeking through....
 
67Dart440GT said:
This isn't really the way to go about getting coverage. If you are relying on the sealer to get coverage it's not a true color.

My 2cents on this situation.

First of all, I am going to guess that this is a "cheaper" paint line. And these are the issues you have when you have to use these products. The color should match much closer than it does even if it was a second batch. As stated above there are MANY different factors that can cause a color to not match, even if you spray it all at once. I don't even think you could get away with a color blend with that match.

As far as using a tinted sealer. It is always said to use a similar color sealer to help with coverage, but in my opinion all that does is mask a problem, and you do NOT get a true color.

Take a spray out card for example, black on one half, white on the other, these color contrasts are specifically made to show when you achieve perfect color hiding. Once the black and white are fully covered, you have your coverage. You DON'T use a sealer when you are doing a spray out card. Why? Well, because you get instant coverage with a sealer that's why. It is completely defeating the purpose of doing a spray out card. Once you get coverage over a black and white spray out card you know EXACTLY how many coats it takes to get coverage, REGARDLESS of sealer color. If you are getting coverage "faster" with a different color, then you are not getting a true color because you are actually relying on the sealer color slightly peeking through....
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Your corect in many things YES since this is a budget (yeah right) daily
driver I used cheaper paint - PPG Shopline - and yes having only played around painting a few parts this is my first REAL experience painting and YES I got better at it as I went along and YES I put way too much paint on the doors
But if you don't try something you never learn and maybe someone else will get some help or advise by reading this
 
67Dart440GT said:
This WASN'T meant to OFFEND you, I was TRYING to HELP


:D
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I wasn't offended at all quite the oppisite just pointing out that you were correct in many ways and hope it will help someone else doing this thanks for any input
 
As a painter for the last 19 yrs. I'd like to add this to that..Many factors can affect the outcome of a color, particulary sensitive colors like pearls and metallics. For example if you held the spray gun too close to a panel that was lying flat( as many people do) You can get a different color tone to a 1/4 panel you shot that was on the car ( where one would instinctively 'back off ' the gun, so you don't run the paint). Also if the car was not shot both times in a controlled enviroment like a paint booth, and the weather conditions( like temp, humidity, amount of air movement) were considerable different. That would affect the speed that the paint flashed or dryed, and how the metallics layed out. I would not re-prime the car either. Let it cure, 800 or 1000 grit sand it (don't blow thru) then shoot. If you have enough base to redo it, I would. This would all but quarantee your success. Don't sweat it, pros redo paint work all the time. The chances of the doors matching the 1/4's and fenders if you reshoot just them is...not good.
 
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