Paint sealer?'s

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HemiPar

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Hey all. Good morning. I have been busy blocking my Swinger. Almost done with that. So the next step is applying the sealer. I have heard that I can use epoxy for this, just reduce the catalis 20%, says so on the can. But I have also heard its better to just use regular sealer. So what have you guys done? I just dont want to waste 1/2. What have you done? and how did it turn out. Oh, I will be using base/clear.
 
It depends.

If you are ready for paint, you can use a wet on wet sealer system that allows you to seal, wait for the recommended flash time, spray the base coats, flash and then clear. This is the way production body shops do it. Fast and easy = $$$.

But, for a restoration I sand between each step (not between color and clear though). I start with bare metal and apply an epoxy primer. That dries for a day or two and I scuff it with red scotchbrite. I then do all my body work, panel replacement, filler, etc over and through the epoxy primer. Then I apply a another coat of epoxy, wait the recommended time for flash and apply a few coats of a high build primer. Block, and repeat till straight. I will have finished the high build primer to 220 or 320 grit finish. Then I apply another couple coats of epoxy primer as my sealer. I have a 7 day window to apply paint without sanding, but I wet sand the exterior panels anyway with 500 grit to remove any texture or dust. Then it's ready for the base coat. Sometimes I will apply the needed coats to achieve hiding and quickly give it a light sanding to remove texture and dust (depends on what the guy is wanting for a finish). I apply a couple more drop coats for good measure, wait the flash time and apply 4 or 5 coats of clear.

So, it depends. You want it quick or perfect??? epoxy can be used for both.
 
I have always used epoxy as a sealer. If you use a good corrosion resistant primer surfacer there is no need to epoxy panels first. Epoxy is non sanding and creates more hassle than it does good. Do your body work. Use a good corrosion resistant surfacer, block/board sand the car, mask, shoot epoxy as sealer, then finish with your top coat. Never once have I had trouble with doing body filler work over the top of bare steel.
 
I would use the recommended sealer for your paint system. It will probably spray on easier with less orange peel and is probably cheaper than epoxy primer.
 
I have always used epoxy as a sealer. If you use a good corrosion resistant primer surfacer there is no need to epoxy panels first. Epoxy is non sanding and creates more hassle than it does good. Do your body work. Use a good corrosion resistant surfacer, block/board sand the car, mask, shoot epoxy as sealer, then finish with your top coat. Never once have I had trouble with doing body filler work over the top of bare steel.

I should note that the only reason I do it this way is that many of the cars that come into my shop come in bare metal from a media blaster. The first thing I do is clean it up and put it in epoxy. Then I can analyze the damage and order the replacement panels or fabricate them. Rust happens fast so I protect it with epoxy because I can do filler work over it if needed. Some of these cars sit waiting for parts and me for months. I wouldn't want them sitting in bare metal.
 
Thanks for the info guys. The car has been sanded down to bear metal. Then I applied the epoxy then the body work. After that I used a high build primer and been blocking, with final of 320grit, my arms off the last few days. now I just need to clean the garage, get all the dust off the car and hoping to seal it this afternoon. Apply base in the morning, wait to flash and then the clear. SO I hope to be completed by Saturday with the paint. You guys have been a great help. Thanks.
 
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