Painted part of Dart with Duplicolor paint should I remove it?

[lee g]

.I bought several cans of the Duplicolor pearl lime green paint and painted my doors, door jambs, trunk gutters, and engine compartment. It turned out good but one of my buddies read it was crap. Should I scuff it and paint over it with a good single stage or just go with it. I am doing the outside of the car base clear with a pearl. I thought the lacquer would be OK elsewhere. I thought I was saving money but hind sight the Duplicolo paint shop is probably just as much as a decent single stage. Also should I go with a black hood or stay lime green? It will have the dual black hood scoops

 

[1968FormulaS340]

Well it wouldn't be the first or last car out there with rattle can jambs.

But...

If you are putting real paint on the outside I would take the time to correctly refinish the other areas.

This means REMOVING not just scuffing the Duplicolor paint.

The reason I would remove it is because:

1. Rattle can paint doesn't offer the greatest adhesion

2. In the area where you have overlap of the body and jambs you may have a paint failure.

 

[lee g]

This is the paint shop line pre mixed quart cans that you spray in a spray gun.

 

[lee g]

Failed to add that it is a lacquer paint and matches the base clear I am using on the outside perfect. I bought the Duplicolor paint shop line because I bought some of their trunk paint and it didn't work well so they gave me a $100 credit so I bought 4 cans of the Duplicolor paint shop pre mixed lacquer since I had to get one of their other products (I had lost my receipt for my purchase but still had the cans).

 

[1968FormulaS340]

Oh, sorry about that. What are you shooting the outside with? It's best to stay with the same process throughout the entire car.

You could get pealing of the clear in the body to jamb transition.

Personally, I would re-do the jambs.

At the very least I would call the manufacturers tech line and see what they say.

 

[lee g]

I emailed Duplicolor and they suggested I sand off the lacquer, spray with epoxy primer, then regular primer and start sanding

 

[Oklacarcollecto]

I emailed Duplicolor and they suggested I sand off the lacquer, spray with epoxy primer, then regular primer and start sanding

Getting the information from Duplicolor was a good thing to do. Did they suggest a sealer also? There are so many things that will cause paint to lift or orange peel because of incompatability.

 

[lee g]

The only suggestions they made were to remove it or just use lacquer paint. My response was I will watch it go up in dust. I am hand sanding as much of it off as I can. I then plan on painting it with 2 layers of epoxy primer, 1 layer of sandable primer,sand smooth again, a coat of tinted sealer and then the urethane. It took me 4 hours to hand sand around the trunk gutter and the back of the car. I still have the doors, door jambs and surrounding area, and engine compartment to go.

 

[lee g]

I came up with my solution other that totally stripping the areas down to bare metal again. I had read this on another forum from a Duplicolor rep. I am sanding the Duplicolor Paint Shop lacquer paint with 80 grit sandpaper to remove as much of the paint as I can. I will then spray it with two good coats of epoxy primer followed by two good coats of sandable primer. I will let that sit for a few days and see if there is any wrinkles or lifting. If so I will sand those areas down through my recent epoxy and primer finish to see if it is the Duplicolor beneath it and if so sand all of it out of that area. I will then respray what is needed, sand to a 400 grit wet sand finish. I will then spray a 2k sealer followed by my single stage urethane finish. My local paint supply store that has been selling and spraying paint for years told me I was overkilling it. He feels certain I could just rough up the Duplicolor lacquer then do the above steps without sanding so much of it off. This is my plan and I will let you all know how it goes.