Painting/Bits & Pieces

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Captainkirk

Old School Mopar Warrior
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I am noticing an increasing number of threads showing guys painting doors, hoods, deck lids, front fenders, valences etc off the car rather than doing an entire shoot all at once.... this all prior to an entire paint job. Is there a reason for this? Easier, less work at one time or something? My curiosity is getting the best of me......
 
Easier to get complete coverage in pieces but you have to be careful when spraying metallics. Also want to make sure everything is ultimately sprayed from the same batch of mixed paint. Reassembly takes extra care. We painted mine in pieces.
 
"be careful when spraying metallic." is an understatement.

Don't panel paint a metallic at all. Gun speed and gun distance will change how the metallic lays and how the color is perceived by the eye.

If you panel paint a metallic everything will be slightly a different color.

You can see this all the time at car shows. One way people hide it is by showing their car with hood, doors and trunk open.
 
"be careful when spraying metallic." is an understatement.

Don't panel paint a metallic at all. Gun speed and gun distance will change how the metallic lays and how the color is perceived by the eye.

If you panel paint a metallic everything will be slightly a different color.

You can see this all the time at car shows. One way people hide it is by showing their car with hood, doors and trunk open.

agreed, even pros have issues with metallics. (I am doing mine, myself- not a pro- but I think I can do it....)

back to the op, it makes sense to pain the insides, jambs, etc in pieces. this way you can assemble the car and get all the (visually) contiguous parts shot together. This presents its own challenges to avoid hard lines/edges inside the door jambs, cowl etc.

some of this can be avoided by applying the paint at an angle that is not conducive to load up the jamb and/or shooting near the jamb area "hot" (over reduced to it goes on thinner and melts in a little.

This does require some advanced masking technique as well.
this can help:

3M6296-7-8.jpg
 
The key to painting metallics in pieces is to orient the panel or part in the same position it will be mounted on the car (ie: doors vertical, deck lid flat, etc.). I'd be more concerned with this technique, depending on the size of the flake itself. Spreading it out over days or weeks could create problems too for the reasons mentioned. But making a blanket statement that you'll end up with mismatched panels is simply incorrect. The orange on my car is a metallic and the match is perfect.

panelsinbcimg_01.jpg
 
Unless you are painting candys or tri-coats, painting panels apart is pretty straight forward, as 70Duster440 explained. With the proper gun(s), consistent technique and the metallic control offered by most modern basecoats it's commonly done with success.
 
Unless you are painting candys or tri-coats, painting panels apart is pretty straight forward, as 70Duster440 explained. With the proper gun(s), consistent technique and the metallic control offered by most modern basecoats it's commonly done with success.

The last thing i will say on this subject is.... I deal with this stuff every day, as a profession.

Don't panel paint a metallic unless you have the money to do the paint over, because that is the risk you run.
 
The last thing i will say on this subject is.... I deal with this stuff every day, as a profession.

Don't panel paint a metallic unless you have the money to do the paint over, because that is the risk you run.


The color I will be painting is the 1972 color 'gunmetal'...this is a slight metallic paint with a clearcoat cover.
 
Gonna be laying a pearl, gonna shoot it all at once panels hung. Otherwise it's a risk as previously stated.
 
Been there done that tried painting T5 copper poly in pieces what a mistake had to assemble then repaint. I'm now doing a 69 Valiant and I will be painting it a color that will allow it to be painted in pieces -------- WHITE --------
 
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