Painting Redline Poverty Caps

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DentalDart

DentalDart

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I'm sure someone has done this before? What method did you find was the best? Ive been taping and using an exacto knife so far and.... I hate it... the patience virtue I dont have yet... I saw on another mopar forum someone made a cad cam file and had vinyl piece cut for the black.

The red was done by my lovely wife, the middle black pieces were done with sharpie (paint pen allows the paint to come out to fast imo).

Do I just suck it up butter cup and keep cutting with the exacto knife and next year see the finished product lol.

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Figured it out. KISS

Took all the tape off and used the paint brush that comes with the paint pen. It flowed on there so much better than when doing it with tape on the wheels. Plus I saved 25 hours of cutting tape with the exacto knife.

I just have to wait for that to dry and I'll do all the sides.

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Looks great!! Nice work! Now i will send you the ones you sold me back and you can do mine too! :D
 
dartfreak75 said:
Looks great!! Nice work! Now i will send you the ones you sold me back and you can do mine too! :D
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Its nice that you think they looks great... but if i did yours and sent them back you'd charge me for making them look worse :rofl:

I have a total of 6 redlines and I'm definitely only doing 4 of them...
 
What kind of paint pen are you using im gonna have to try that! The black looks nice
 
dartfreak75 said:
What kind of paint pen are you using im gonna have to try that! The black looks nice
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DupliColor Universal Black. If you screw off the top it has a brush that looks like one from nail polish. I'm sure you could pick up a nice paint brush from the craft store for pretty cheap and that may work better for applying the paint in the recessed area where the black goes.

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I used to make my own detail brushes using my own hair. A small snip of it, about 3/4" long and then superglued to a BBQ skewer or popsicle stick I'd whittled the end of.

Trim it afterward to make a nice point and they would work great. Longer bristles holds more pain for doing things like your rings.

Nail polish gets tacky after it's laid down, which makes trying to smooth it out a real pain. When doing detail work I almost always started with my brush in some thinner. Then paint, then dab in thinner again. I'd have a card ready (3x5 or just some cut cardboard) to trial the brush on and also to get some 'extra' paint ready to load back to the brush once things started to Peter out.

It takes some practice, but once you get the consistency of the paint just right it will flow so nice and lay down flat as you pull the brush. On metal you can easily wipe up mistakes using a rag that's just s touch damp with thinner. Sweat works well too, strangely, but skin oil can screw with paint.

Watch some videos of pinstripers or folks who do freehand painting of plastic models. You'll get the idea.. Plus then you can do your wife's nails, which will come in handy for when you're ready for aluminum heads.
 
I use a product called liquid masking, which is available in most hobby stores under different names. It's basically a liquid rubber that you paint over everything, then use an exacto or razor to cut around the parts you want to paint. Then you simply peel off the rubber over the areas you want to paint, and apply your paint. I use an airbrush, but a small model paint brush will work. After the paint has dried, you simply peel off all the rubber using your finger or an eraser. Cheap and effective. Paul.
 
R4Sedan said:
Looks great. Way to get the family involved:thumbsup:
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I got lucky last night with the help, she reluctantly helps me when I struggle on a project.

I think her words were "you're getting fingernail polish everywhere... Ill just do it so you don't waste all my good polish." Then she goes "I wish you spent as much time helping with laundry as you do on all these little projects for the dart..."
 
70dart340 said:
I use a product called liquid masking, which is available in most hobby stores under different names. It's basically a liquid rubber that you paint over everything, then use an exacto or razor to cut around the parts you want to paint. Then you simply peel off the rubber over the areas you want to paint, and apply your paint. I use an airbrush, but a small model paint brush will work. After the paint has dried, you simply peel off all the rubber using your finger or an eraser. Cheap and effective. Paul.
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This is pretty cool, I use something similar when doing root canals.

I was actually thinking about painting on some sharkhide over the paint to clear coat it.
 
I used testors Italian Red spray bomb and masked it off w/3M 1/4" blue tape. I thinned out testors flat black, brushed it on and wiped the excess w/a rag before it cured.
 
I did a stripe on some wheels once. Just put them on a turntable, rotated them with the brush held in one place on the wheel
 
DentalDart, for the red circle, you didn't choose the easiest way...
I simply used a 1/4" red pinstrip tape.
A 5 minutes job for the complete set of 4 hubcaps.

After.jpg
 
DentalDart said:
This is pretty cool, I use something similar when doing root canals.

I was actually thinking about painting on some sharkhide over the paint to clear coat it.
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I'm a little afraid of helping you with root canals, but help is help......
 
Great effort guys! A t-shirt sprayed with some brake or carb clean double wrapped around a paint stir stick is good for cleaning off the raised areas. Especially if you spray the black.

Also, some low-sheen or semi-gloss paint would help knock down the glare of the top of the paint and possibly make the surface finish not look so hand done.

I hired a window sign painter to do the numbers and letters on my license plates by hand before. Their work was nothing short of amazing too.
 
You could also use One-Shot pinstriping paint. Dries slow, and you won't have any brush marks. Easy clean-up with naptha or mineral spirits. And super-durable once it dries.
 
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