painting trunk floor

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RyanUpdike70

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I was wondering what paint or undercoating to use to paint my duster trunk floor the car is tubbed and the paint now has been strip because it was not prepped right and gas spilled on the floor and the paint came off. I was going to use self etching primmer on the metal . I dont no if i should use a spray on trunk bed liner or paint The car is raced and showed sometimes so I want it to look decent.
 
RyanUpdike70 said:
u got any pics
Click to expand...

You can topcoat over POR-15. Make sure the POR-15 is the actual POR-15 rust preventative paint and not one of their topcoat products (ask me how I know!), and apply it to the bare metal. Read their curing and compatibility directions on their website, then you can spray your final coat over it if you so choose. So, it can still be body color afterwards, especially if you spray the POR-15 application. Even if you brush it, it will turn out quite smooth though. Or, you can just leave it the way it is (black). Since it's inside the trunk, it shouldn't see much daylight, which is important since the main POR-15 product is UV sensitive. If it will see a lot of light, topcoat it.
 
I will try and post pics of POR15 I used on my k frame. Great stuff like blueswinger and hotlines said. Stay with directions. The guy i bought it from said that paint will not stick to it. Dunno if that makes a diff in your case or not. You wont need much I did my kframe and it took about 3 tablespoons. ok it wouldnt allow me to post individual pics, so here is my resto thread. k frame is on the last page

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=85673&page=3

4spdragtop
 
I didnt, I bought the metal ready and I didnt need to, it is basically a rust remover, and marine clean is a degreaser. Its up to you what you use for the prep, but for $20 get the kit in my opinion.
 
I didn't want to pay their price for their degreaser, so I just used Purple Power (or something like that, just a regular degreaser). If you're going to topcoat, you need to scuff... like stated already, read the directions...

BTW, I did use their Metal Ready or whatever it's called. I sandblasted, and supposedly all you need to do when blasting is blow it off good then apply the POR-15 but I didn't want to take any chances so I used the Metal Ready. Or Prep & Ready or whatever they call it. I swear mine says Metal Ready.
 
Especially if you can pick it up locally, definitely only buy the smallest amount you think you will need. The quart is surely enough for the trunk. I was surprised at how far it went. It doesn't keep well, but you can extend the storage life of it by cleaning off the rim of the can, then putting a sheet of plastic wrap (like Saran wrap or cling food wrap) over it before refitting the lid, then storing it upside-down. And don't paint right out of the can!

I can't stress enough to read the directions. Don't assume it's like regular paint, it's not. I'm really impressed with all their products though. I'm using it some more this weekend, as a matter of fact.
 
I got an email from POR-15 a couple of days ago offering free shipping. It said in big red letters to enter the code "HFSO" when ordering on line or by phone. Good through October 31st.
 
I did my floor pan last winter I vacuum blasted it did all the repairs needed sprayed on a epoxy then spayed it body color. Doin the trunk the same this winter. Here's a couple floor pan pic's.
 

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hammerite, KBS, and Blue Lightning are also good products to look for. Preparation is the most important in getting a durable finish that with last forever
 
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